Confused about ohms...

Yes well the solutions suggested so far are either get 2 cabs or re-wire your existing 'speakers in series' cab to parallel.

You say you have a 10" cab? If 16 Ohm rated you have a 2x10 cab I assume (2 10 inch 8 Ohm speakers)? Can you clarify exactly what you have?

It's a simple task to re-wire for parallel - loads of wiring diagrams if you search online

Getting an additional different sized speaker cab might or might not sound good for you ... but both cabs should ideally be 16 Ohms rated and one of those cabs will need a parallel wired double socket plate to link to the other cab.

If you want to move to 12" speakers a cheaper option would be to sell your 2x10 and buy a 2x12 8 or 4 Ohm rated cab (or a 16 Ohm Orange one and re-wire it to parallel)

Alternatively,

a) Keep existing cab and live with the Quilter amp performing at around 60% it's rated output power (zero cost)

or

b) Re-wire your existing cab to parallel (very minor cost)

or

c) Upgrade to a higher powered amp. (potentially large cost)

Or .... if you want to go stereo then sell everything and get a decent 2 channel power amp such as a Matrix GT1000FX and 2 identical speaker cabs (or a 4x12 stereo cab) .... (really big cost)
 
What I have is the Quilter mini head 101 and the Quilter BlockDock 10TC cab (8 ohm).

For stereo, I've read that I can get another set of the same thing I have above so it's a pair (2 amps and 2 cabs). How exactly do I plug a guitar into 2 separate amps? Or do I actually plug into an external effects processor and run the left and right outputs through the pair of amps and cabs?

Yes well the solutions suggested so far are either get 2 cabs or re-wire your existing 'speakers in series' cab to parallel.

You say you have a 10" cab? If 16 Ohm rated you have a 2x10 cab I assume (2 10 inch 8 Ohm speakers)? Can you clarify exactly what you have?

It's a simple task to re-wire for parallel - loads of wiring diagrams if you search online

Getting an additional different sized speaker cab might or might not sound good for you ... but both cabs should ideally be 16 Ohms rated and one of those cabs will need a parallel wired double socket plate to link to the other cab.

If you want to move to 12" speakers a cheaper option would be to sell your 2x10 and buy a 2x12 8 or 4 Ohm rated cab (or a 16 Ohm Orange one and re-wire it to parallel)

Alternatively,

a) Keep existing cab and live with the Quilter amp performing at around 60% it's rated output power (zero cost)

or

b) Re-wire your existing cab to parallel (very minor cost)

or

c) Upgrade to a higher powered amp. (potentially large cost)

Or .... if you want to go stereo then sell everything and get a decent 2 channel power amp such as a Matrix GT1000FX and 2 identical speaker cabs (or a 4x12 stereo cab) .... (really big cost)
 
Thanks for clarifying what you got ..... we were maybe heading in a different direction due to the mention of Orange cabs.

To go stereo with 2 Quilter rigs you'd be sacrificing one of the Quilter preamps and just using it's FX return (which goes direct to it's power amp).

EG .... The path would likely be Guitar -> front of amp stomp boxes (if used) -> Quilter 1 input -> Quilter 1 FX send to Stereo FX Processor -> Stereo FX processor Out left to Quilter 1 FX return and Stereo FX processor out Right to Quilter 2 FX return

Quilter 1 would be doing the preamp/tonestack and left speaker duty and Quilter 2 would just be doing right speaker duty

I'm unsure if your post is 'Fractal Audio' product related or just Quilter related but the Fractal FX8 could be a good solution because you can use it for some front end stomps and also some stereo FX and route the outs to the 2 Quilters using the 4 cable method.

EG Guitar -> FX8 in -> some mono stomp FX8 models -> Quilter 1 input -> Quilter 1 FX send back to FX8 for stereo FX and then FX8 stereo outs routed Left to Quilter 1 FX return and Right out to Quilter 2 FX return.

You are not tied into using the FX8 for front of amp stomps - you could put your own real stomps before the FX8 and use just stereo FX in the FX8

You could use an AxeFX II or III to do the same duty but with the Quilter rigs' 10 inch cabs you'd not be using any speaker IRs and likely not using it's amp modelling to full potential either .... making it an expensive FX processor ...... but also a fine unit to use fully with studio monitors for recording etc.
 
Well, this is all very interesting.

Firstly we need to establish whether we are talking about Solid State amps or Tube amps. Both have issues with differing speaker loads. Let's look at Tube amps first. The ideal setup is to match the output impedance of the amp to the input impedance of the speaker cab. This allows for the best transfer of energy from the amp to the speaker (Electronics 101, impedance matching). If you increase or decrease the speaker load (impedance) you will affect the output power of your amp and to a lesser extent, the frequency response. Either way will result in a lower volume. Now tube amps are more than happy to run into low impedance speaker loads, in fact, they will happily drive a totally short circuit. What they don't like is high impedance or open circuit. An open circuit allows massive voltages (20kv at least) to build up in the output transformer (called back emf) that actually punctures the insulation on the transformer windings and smokes it (we all know that smell, right). Generally, tube amps will come with three speaker impedance options, 4, 8, 16 ohms. Your mission is to choose a cab that meets one of these values (or is as close as you can get). However, if you decide to put a 4-ohm cab in an 8-ohm socket on the back of the amp, no worries, you'll just get less power (volume) out of your amp. The same goes for attaching a 16 ohm to a 4 or 8 ohm output socket. You won't do any damage, it just won't sound optimal. But, what you must NEVER do is connect no speaker to the output of a going tube amp...doing that in most cases will smoke your amp (Most manufacturers these days short the output when you remove the speaker plug to get around this very real danger, but old amps didn't do it. (this is the reason you never use low wattage speakers with high wattage amps. When a high wattage amp smokes a low wattage speaker the cabinet will appear as an open circuit. That is certain death to a tube amp)

Transistor amps also want to see the same speaker load as the output impedance of the amp (for the same reason as tube amps, impedance matching gives the best output, but not the most) However, if you reduce the speaker impedance on a transistor you will get an increase in volume (not a decrease like with tubes). The output stage of a transistor amp doesn't use an output transformer, like a tube amp. Instead, the output devices (transistors) are connected directly to the speaker. The lower the speaker impedance, the more current that flows in the output transistors. At some point, we reach a critical node (usually around 2 ohms) where the output transistor will overheat and generally go short circuit. This then connects the DC power supply of your amp directly to your speaker. The speaker shoots forward or backwards to its limit, depending on which of the output transistor shorted out first, and fries itself. If you go the other way and increase the speaker impedance all that will happen is your amp will get quieter and quieter as less current flows in the output stage (Ohms laws - same voltage, bigger impedance = less current. Less current, less volume) You can't hurt a transistor amp by connecting a 16 or 32 or any big number impedance speaker to it. Also, changing impedance, unlike tube amps, has minimal effect on frequency response, your amp just gets quieter or louder depending on which way you go.

So, rules of thumb. Always try to match your cab to your amp for best performance. With a tube amp, lower impedance is better than high impedance for the amp, but still not ideal and affects both volume and frequency response. With transistors, it's the other way around. Don't go low with a transistor amp or you risk smoke, go high if anything. Having said that most modern transistor amps run a system called load line limiting and if you go dangerously low with cab impedance the amp just shuts itself off for protection.

Sorry, that was bit of a rave but I trust it's cleared up a few issues for you. I'm an electronics engineer so have a vague idea about this stuff :cool:
 
I mentioned Orange cabs out of curiosity if I can use my 4-8 ohm amp with their 16 ohm cabs since I didn't see any Orange cabs that were 4-8 ohm.

Regarding stereo connections; Quilter stated this on its website:

Does the Frontliner 2x8W work in stereo? Quilter Labs
https://www.quilterlabs.com/index.p...-2x8w/does-the-frontliner-2x8w-work-in-stereo

So guitar goes>into effects pedal>then effects pedal L/R outputs>into a pair of Quilter mini head 101 amp>then into a pair of Quilter BlockDock 10TC cabs.

Thanks for clarifying what you got ..... we were maybe heading in a different direction due to the mention of Orange cabs.

To go stereo with 2 Quilter rigs you'd be sacrificing one of the Quilter preamps and just using it's FX return (which goes direct to it's power amp).

EG .... The path would likely be Guitar -> front of amp stomp boxes (if used) -> Quilter 1 input -> Quilter 1 FX send to Stereo FX Processor -> Stereo FX processor Out left to Quilter 1 FX return and Stereo FX processor out Right to Quilter 2 FX return

Quilter 1 would be doing the preamp/tonestack and left speaker duty and Quilter 2 would just be doing right speaker duty

I'm unsure if your post is 'Fractal Audio' product related or just Quilter related but the Fractal FX8 could be a good solution because you can use it for some front end stomps and also some stereo FX and route the outs to the 2 Quilters using the 4 cable method.

EG Guitar -> FX8 in -> some mono stomp FX8 models -> Quilter 1 input -> Quilter 1 FX send back to FX8 for stereo FX and then FX8 stereo outs routed Left to Quilter 1 FX return and Right out to Quilter 2 FX return.

You are not tied into using the FX8 for front of amp stomps - you could put your own real stomps before the FX8 and use just stereo FX in the FX8

You could use an AxeFX II or III to do the same duty but with the Quilter rigs' 10 inch cabs you'd not be using any speaker IRs and likely not using it's amp modelling to full potential either .... making it an expensive FX processor ...... but also a fine unit to use fully with studio monitors for recording etc.
 
I have several amps that have different outputs, and I like to match them to combinations of cabinets that don’t always line up. I found the simple and most effective answer for any amp up to 100 watts is the Weber Z-Matcher. You set the input to the amp, the output to whatever you’re using for a speaker (or speakers) and off you go... no smoking transformers, no worries, and I hear no tonal difference at all. Under $150 from Weber or several other vendors, it is something every guitarist needs at some point! All my amps are tube, but this is a passive device so should be good for S/S too as long as the power is 100 or under.

https://www.tedweber.com/z-matcher

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Regarding stereo connections; Quilter stated this on its website:

Does the Frontliner 2x8W work in stereo? Quilter Labs
https://www.quilterlabs.com/index.p...-2x8w/does-the-frontliner-2x8w-work-in-stereo

So guitar goes>into effects pedal>then effects pedal L/R outputs>into a pair of Quilter mini head 101 amp>then into a pair of Quilter BlockDock 10TC cabs.
I believe the FAQ question was more to do with people owning a 2 speaker blockdock and hoping to use it as a stereo cab ...... which isn't possible due to the mono output nature of the Quilter amps and mono in of their cabs. But as you've worked out I'm sure the workaround of using 2 Quilter 101 heads and 2 blockdock cabs is the solution that will work with 2 1x10 cabs.

The potential problem as I see it would be plugging the guitar into the 'effects pedal' straight from the guitar - it depends very much on the quality of the processor and what it will do to your sound when placed in front of the amp instrument input.

What FX processor are you considering for the task?

Are you going to be using any physical stomp boxes such as compressor, overdrives, wah etc between guitar and amp input as well?

I assume you still want to use the Quilter 101's preamp and tonestack EQs etc for your basic amp tone?

To me it would make better sense to utilise the FX loops on the Quilters

I mentioned the FX8 as the FX processor because it allows you to use some FX blocks as traditional 'in front of amp' mono effects and then break out after them to go to your first Quilter amp instrument input. Then you can use it's mono preamp to make your amp tone and then send the mono signal back to the FX8 and use some stereo FX (delays, modulation reverb ) and then route the main L and R FX8 outs back to the FX loop Returns of both Quilters. Balance the volumes of each cab by using the Master vol on each Quilter. Better sound quality.

If you were to use a typical stereo FX unit going direct to the instrument inputs on both Quilter 101s then you'd have 2 different tonestacks in play which would need balanced and EQ'd and delays, reverbs and some stereo modulation fx sound much better after the preamp and before the power amp in a head.

So I'd be using the preamp of just one of the Quilters to shape the basic guitar tone and then the power amps via the FX loop return in each Quilter to provide the post stereo FX clean amplification to each of the cabs.
 
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