4 or 5-Conductor Wire HHs on a 5-way

[bleujazz3]

Title says it all. Would anyone like to share a schematic for wiring a 4-Conductor Wire humbucker into a HH config with a 5-Way blade switch that allows bridge in parallel with neck outer coil in the 2nd position, bridge in parallel with neck outer coil / in series with neck inner coil in the 3rd position, and neck inner coil in the 4th position?

Here's how it would look with a 5-Conductor Wire HH config.

(Diagram courtesy online from Boden Strandberg...)

 

[unix-guy]

I think that's a 4-conductor... The bare wire isn't counted.

Also, the wire colors will be different from different pickup manufacturers.

 

[bleujazz3]

I think that's a 4-conductor... The bare wire isn't counted.

Also, the wire colors will be different from different pickup manufacturers.

Thanks. Boden Strandberg Essential 6 incoming. Am considering some Lollar Low Wind & Standard Imperials. The Indonesian Essential has been receiving some decent reviews on YT compared to their costlier cousins. If perhaps you have a recommendation for pups with less edge than the OEMs, feel free to suggest.

Regards the bridge pup, it seems like the red & white wire were shunted (folded back into itself rather than connect to something. Is that how you read as well?

Given a multimeter, how can one tell what wire color does what? Do pickup builders typically provide basic wiring diagrams for various configs of their pickups? (Mine would be similar to that of a Les Paul Junior with one volume, one tone, but with a 5-way blade switch.)

 

[unix-guy]

You can search the internet for "pickup wire colors"...

 

[bleujazz3]

Those colours are the same a Seymour Duncan with the hot and ground flipped.

You have the diagram there already the bare wire is just the baseplate ground.

Thanks. Am awaiting a set of Lollars soon. From the diagram, can you tell what wires are positive, negative, ground, and the remaining last color and shield wire? Or do the colors correspond to the individual pickup coils, +/-, and shield?

 

[unix-guy]

Thanks. Am awaiting a set of Lollars soon. From the diagram, can you tell what wires are positive, negative, ground, and the remaining last color and shield wire? Or do the colors correspond to the individual pickup coils, +/-, and shield?

https://www.seymourduncan.com/blog/latest-updates/guitar-wiring-explored-humbucker-internals

 

[bleujazz3]

https://www.seymourduncan.com/blog/latest-updates/guitar-wiring-explored-humbucker-internals

Gonna need to send a virtual beer your way. Thanks. Exactly what I was thinking. (Just curious, how did you go about researching that URL? What description or statement did you use, so I can learn how to do the same next time?).

So the black and white represent the upper (north) coil and the red and green the lower (south) coil. That explains most of what I need to know, but the bridge pup displays red/white "shunt," as if the bridge north and south finish are wired back into the pup?

 

[mr_fender]

The red and white wires together ties the two coils together in series, which is standard wiring for a humbucker. Two wire humbuckers are the same except that connection is done at the coils and only two wires are extended with the ground shield.

 

[bleujazz3]

If yo don’t understand the diagram then I suggest you get a tech to do it.

One of @unix-guy's internal links within the SD page produced a 404 error, so yeah, I was at a loss trying to grasp all of this. And TBH, one of my friends works as a part-time guitar tech repair luthier. I've trusted his work previously and will do so again.

 

[bleujazz3]

The red and white wires together ties the two coils together in series, which is standard wiring for a humbucker. Two wire humbuckers are the same except that connection is done at the coils and only two wires are extended with the ground shield.

Thanks for confirming that. So, the bridge red/white wire connects the pup's coils in series? This I understand. I'm not gonna try to understand how the full neck pup works in series; it's technical stuff I'll let my guitar tech buddy describe.

My question to you is, do you think it wise to try to upgrade the volume and tone pots while we upgrade the pups? Might try to upgrade the resistors and caps while we're there.

 

[unix-guy]

Gonna need to send a virtual beer your way. Thanks. Exactly what I was thinking. (Just curious, how did you go about researching that URL? What description or statement did you use, so I can learn how to do the same next time?).

So the black and white represent the upper (north) coil and the red and green the lower (south) coil. That explains most of what I need to know, but the bridge pup displays red/white "shunt," as if the bridge north and south finish are wired back into the pup?

"Seymour Duncan wire colors"

A variation on what I wrote in my second post.

In the picture you posted, the red and white wires are soldered together. They don't show it, but they will be taped or have some shrink tube on them to keep from accidentally making contact with anything. This is a standard humbucker 4-wire thing, where the end of one coil connected to the beginning of the other.

For the neck pickup, the red and white wires go to the same switch lug. This would be for the coil split.

 

[bleujazz3]

By the time you have spent the money on all new electrics and pickups you could have easily just bought a better model on the used market. This is before you even get to the cheap zinc bridge.
Also there is nothing standard about the hardware on headless guitars. This model is not compatible with the others in their own range even. It would be a skilled job to fit and even find suitable alternative hardware.

The pups are the most expensive replacements; the pots, resistors and caps much less so. I'm not sure the hardware plays that much of a role in the QC or the imported models (Ola seems to have previously addressed the errant QC issues thus far with current releases). My guitar tech might offer his advice regards the electronics upgrades since he'll be working with the guitar in due time.

I thought it wise to order a couple packs of headstock locking nut washers where the string tightens into the locking nut. The washers by definition tend to wear and/or bend after repeated string changes, so it made sense to buy a couple packs in expectation of the garden variety maintenance issues that will occur occasionally.

 

[bleujazz3]

Is English a second language because you don’t understand anything anyone says?

Do you commonly try to dance with other men? How far away is your mailbox? Please. Stop with the microaggressions and realize not everyone responds equally to what others say. Now, would you care to walk that back a little and exercise a little patience in the process?

 

[bleujazz3]

By the time you have spent the money on all new electrics and pickups you could have easily just bought a better model on the used market. This is before you even get to the cheap zinc bridge.
Also there is nothing standard about the hardware on headless guitars. This model is not compatible with the others in their own range even. It would be a skilled job to fit and even find suitable alternative hardware.

You must not realize that my budget was a deciding factor regards the Essential 6. The next step up model would be a USA made priced about $1650.

Having done the math, the pickups add $380 to the $1K price tag. I do not personally worry about the hardware of the imported model, parts will become available in due time.

Although I've not done the math for the electronics, replacement pots, switch, jack, and resistors and caps will not add significantly towards bringing the Essential upwards in value, although resale value few if any would desire the guitar without the original parts.

From what you say, I hear that it would be difficult to find metric parts for the Essential. Sorry to have ruffled your feathers, otherwise.

 

[bleujazz3]

No USA guitar not that that means better.

The first USA model Strandberg pricetag is about $1.6K. The foundation Standberg utilizes provides a more resonant sound and tone. The USA models also utilize higher quality pups, electronics and parts. The Essential uses a mercanti (?) body (renewable rain forest wood) with imported hardware, electronics and OEM pups.

My budget was the reason for my purchase; the higher priced core model was beyond my reach at the time. The subsequent pups and electronics upgrades are afterthoughts which hopefully will improve the sound and tone, not so much about improving playability, or separate aspects of the guitar. Fortunately, building on an imported foundation may save money compared to the first USA made model, but that will remain to be seen once the pups and possible electronics will have been replaced.

 

[bleujazz3]

There has not been a USA model in years.
https://support.strandbergguitars.com/article/229-where-are-strandberg-guitars-made

How can this be possible? Why do imported Strandbergs other than the Essential cost so much? Some imports command a whopping $2.8K price tag. The Artisan models, almost $8K. It can't be the pups or electronics. Tell me, if it's possible, why non-tremolo 6 string models should cost that much...? Understood with floating tremolo 7-or-8 string models. Understood with stainless steel true temperament frets. Understood with the Artisan custom shop. Not understood with a no frills Essential.

 

[Andy Eagle]

For your information the only USA models were made by Washburn under licence. These were custom shop one offs for the USA only and nowhere near as good as the Japan models. The first line of production models came from World Guitars in Korea then all production was moved to Cortec in Indonesia. The Japanese line from Dynagaki continued with high quality home market models only and the Swedish custom shop closed.
You can now buy only Indonesian and Japanese Strandbergs. The first classic was made in China and they occasionally produce budget stuff there but not ATM.

 

[Andy Eagle]

How can this be possible? Why do imported Strandbergs other than the Essential cost so much? Some imports command a whopping $2.8K price tag. The Artisan models, almost $8K. It can't be the pups or electronics. Tell me, if it's possible, why non-tremolo 6 string models should cost that much...? Understood with floating tremolo 7-or-8 string models. Understood with stainless steel true temperament frets. Understood with the Artisan custom shop. Not understood with a no frills Essential.

My original 6 is similar in quality to guitars from the USA at the same price and more. The pickups are Suhr the electrics are CTS and Oak Grimsby for the switch. Woods are top quality and fit and finish is good. Hardware is bespoke and well made albeit with design issues.




As nice as it is it is nowhere near as good as my
Aritides H/06


This is flawless.
I am a full time tech 35 years nearly and can help you with any questions but please take my answers seriously because I only post information based on facts and personal experience of the products in question.