Headphones output left and right reversed?

No soldering. There is a cable assembly between the motherboard and the front panel daughterboard. To swap the wires:

1. Remove the cover carefully. Note that the fan is mounted on the cover so be sure to disconnect the fan wires.
2. Locate the cable from the "HEADPHONE" header on the motherboard to the daughterboard.
3. Remove the cable.
4. On one end of the cable swap the red and white wires. The connector is a Molex type. To remove the wires you need to push in the little tab that locks the pin into the housing. You can use a jeweler's screwdriver, tweezers, dental pick, etc. to push the tab in.
5. Reinstall the cable.
6. Replace the cover making sure to reconnect the fan.
 
Perfect, thanks for the info. Easy enough. :)

Now when I get my Axe II I'll know how to swap it.
 
Thanks Cliff..

To folks, make sure you don't push in the tabs any more than needed to free the wire/pin (i.e. apply a very slight tension to the wire). You need the tab to spring back into position when you 'flip' the wires and the connections again lock into the Molex (plastic) housing.
 
FractalAudio said:
The cable from the motherboard to the headphone jack is wired backwards. There are four options for anyone with this problem:

1. Swap the wires yourself.
2. We can send you a new cable with which you can replace the miswired cable.
3. Send it back and we'll swap the wires.
4. Ignore it.
Click to expand...

I'm personally in favor of #2 if it's just a simple cable with a quick connect on both ends. What's the preferred way to request one--PM or e-mail to support?
 
Steve,
In my 30+ years of doing electronic design(Military stuff), we often have to change wiring on similar Molex connectors (i.e. I have made mistakes or designs needed added wires). These are VERY easy to swap. If Fractal is OK with you opening the unit and swapping pins, that is a very quick and safe change to make. I don't have a unit, if I did, I'd post some images of the connector (before/during/after). It really is an easy process, just don't press hard on the connector pin tab to release the pin.

You will be surprised how easy this change is, and then you have your unit back in use.. I'd guess this is a 10 minute total effort.

Pete
 
Twould be nice to have someone post pics if they can. Would be a nice option for those who worry abit about pulling their unit's apart.

Ron
 
javajunkie said:
If someone doesn't do it by tomorrow, I will post pictures of how to do it tomorrow evening. Too tired tonight.
Click to expand...

You are the JavaJunkie! There is no excuse! Triple Expresso hard charger!

Thanks Sean. I'm hoping one of the sleepless types here can post some instructionals (although I see this as a 'not that big a deal' kind of thing....)

Ron
 
Was this an oversight in the first few runs of the unit, or was this setup as expected (as some have mentioned for people using IEM's or something?).
If it was an ovesight can we expect that units going forward will have the headphone input cabled correctly (as described above)? Or is there a stock of cables being used in upcoming units that will still have this issue? I'm on the list and don't expect to have my II all that soon, but I expect to use my headphones in a home studio setting ALL of the time. I don't want to take apart the unit the day it comes in if I don't have to.
Thanks!
 
1wheel said:
You will be surprised how easy this change is, and then you have your unit back in use.. I'd guess this is a 10 minute total effort.
Pete
Click to expand...

Done Deal! :twisted Piece of cake...15 mins total time to remove from rack to back in rack with a sound check in between :mrgreen
Like Pete said dont need to push down "hard" on the tangs as its thin metal (gently). Before switching take an exacto blade to return the tang to a raised 30degree angle so it can stay retained once swapped.
Greg
 
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I figured it was something simple. I'll make this switch soon.

Question for Cliff...a bit off topic, but under the category of "while I'm in there." Is the fan supposed to be oriented to blow down on the heatsinks or suck the air up and away, or does it not matter? Mine was installed in the suck direction, so just want to make sure that's correct. I think I saw a video of an Ultra that had it the other way around. (For the rest of you hooligans, feel free to have some juvenile fun with the words "blow" and "suck." ;-) )
 
mitch said:
I figured it was something simple. I'll make this switch soon.Question for Cliff...a bit off topic, but under the category of "while I'm in there." Is the fan supposed to be oriented to blow down on the heatsinks or suck the air up and away, or does it not matter? Mine was installed in the suck direction, so just want to make sure that's correct. I think I saw a video of an Ultra that had it the other way around. (For the rest of you hooligans, feel free to have some juvenile fun with the words "blow" and "suck." ;-) )
Click to expand...
It should blow. It matters.
 
Sorry for the crappy detail...didnt have any cad programs on this puter :roll
So another 15 mins to install a freeware...8)
Greg
HEADPHONE FIX.JPG
 
Not a big deal as it appears to be a simple and quick fix, but just out of curiosity, have all the units shipped so far been wired this way, or just some?
 
Zmonk said:
Not a big deal as it appears to be a simple and quick fix, but just out of curiosity, have all the units shipped so far been wired this way, or just some?
Click to expand...

Also, will units shipped from this point forward require the heaphone jack wires to be swapped by the user?
 
No soldering. There is a cable assembly between the motherboard and the front panel daughterboard. To swap the wires:

The tools: (B&D Screwdriver is invaluable!)

phones1.jpg



1. Remove the cover carefully. Note that the fan is mounted on the cover so be sure to disconnect the fan wires.

phones2.jpg



2. Locate the cable from the "HEADPHONE" header on the motherboard to the daughterboard.
3. Remove the cable.

phones3.jpg



4. On one end of the cable swap the red and white wires. The connector is a Molex type. To remove the wires you need to push in the little tab that locks the pin into the housing. You can use a jeweler's screwdriver, tweezers, dental pick, etc. to push the tab in.

Note: It doesn't take much pressure to release the pin from housing. It will stay in place so you need to tug "slightly" on the wire as you push to release the pin.

phones456.jpg



Note: You can confuse the orientation of pin with respect to the housing if you don’t pay attention when removing it. When you reinsert on the other side of the housing the wires can become twisted. The following image shows the orientation of the pin to the housing. It should click into place easily.

phones7.jpg



5. Reinstall the cable.

6. Replace the cover making sure to reconnect the fan.
 
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DLM said:
Perfect, thanks for the info. Easy enough. :)

Now when I get my Axe II I'll know how to swap it.
Click to expand...

Cliff has probably already killed the employees involved in this oversight, and fixed the Axe-IIs before they go out, himself, so you may not have to worry about it.

I mean, it's not like he can fire them, they already know his secrets. lol
 
Nice work/write up Cobbler!
My cheesy stick drawing (drawn after reassembly) only proves my short term memory is SHOT/GONE/KAPPUT seeing I had the pin access on the wrong side of the connector...:roll
 
gabbenante said:
Nice work/write up Cobbler!
My cheesy stick drawing (drawn after reassembly) only proves my short term memory is SHOT/GONE/KAPPUT seeing I had the pin access on the wrong side of the connector...:roll
Click to expand...

Cliffs words. I just figured I would take pics as I did it so others could see how really simple a fix it is.

As for the side of the pin. I realized I didnt pay attention as I took out the first one. Dohhhh. So thats why I made the note. I noticed when i twisted the wires to get them to cross it turned the pin upside down. Hopefully others wont make that error now. You definetly feel a little "click" as it seats.
 
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