FM9 as pedalboard question

Greg Ferguson said:
A number of us are software, hardware, and chip developers, etc., and also think logically and know how to eliminate variables. We are trying to help you solve this problem, so accept the help in the spirit it is given; you asked for our help so we’re giving it. Nobody is assuming anything bad about you.

The power might be connected, but the unit does not have a software-controlled power switch, so, unless the on/off switch is in the ON position, the unit is not on. It will be grounded though, and being grounded could be the problem if the circuits have different potential as a ground loop could occur the instant the units are connected together, which would not go away when the power is actually turned on.

Fractal’s Humbuster cables can help with ground loops. The manual describes how to build them on p. 6; they’re not the usual TRS to TS cables.
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I don't have a Humbuster cable on hand but I tried a TRS cable from the FM9 to the amp - didn't make any difference.

I just borrowed an MX5 from a friend and hooked it up the exact same way with the same amp and all the same cables and it works just fine with no noise.

Another friend is coming by with an HX Effects tomorrow to confirm.

If both those work but the FM9 doesn't - it's the FM9.
 
blaggers said:
HX effects has a DC power so no earth issues. What amp is it???
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The MX5 worked but I haven't tried the HX effects yet - a friend is bringing that tomorrow. The amp is a little Orange Terror - but I tried it with a Boss Katana artist too - same result.
 
Nimbas said:
I don't have a Humbuster cable on hand but I tried a TRS cable from the FM9 to the amp - didn't make any difference.
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A TRS -> TRS cable is different, and won't provide the feedback the modeler needs to reduce hum, nor will a typical TRS -> TS as they'd connect the tip and ring. Again, page 6 in the manual explains how and why it works.

If you're handy with a soldering iron then it's a simple adjustment to one end, the end that plugs into the amp, swapping the TRS for a TS, and grounding the ring conductor to the shield in the TS plug. The TRS end always has to be connected to the modeler, and the TS to the amp.

Of course, if you're a true software developer, then the hardware and sysadmin guys will run away if they see you approaching any CPU with a screwdriver or soldering iron. :)
 
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Greg Ferguson said:
A TRS -> TRS cable is different, and won't provide the feedback the modeler needs to reduce hum, nor will a typical TRS -> TS as they'd connect the tip and ring. Again, page 6 in the manual explains how and why it works.

If you're handy with a soldering iron then it's a simple adjustment to one end, the end that plugs into the amp, swapping the TRS for a TS, and grounding the ring conductor to the shield in the TS plug. The TRS end always has to be connected to the modeler, and the TS to the amp.

Of course, if you're a true software developer, then the hardware and sysadmin guys will run away if they see you approaching any CPU with a screwdriver or soldering iron. :)
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I was a hardware and networking guy before I was a developer - but in 2009 I saw the writing on the wall and made the move. It was a wise move. Plus I got tired of being a cable monkey :) I'm sorry to say I'm far to lazy to splice my own cable these days. I made my last CAT-5 cable long ago.

Bottom line for me - things should work correctly without special "stuff" - especially if I have other equipment that works as it should just fine with the existing cables and setup. That may be a bad attitude or whatever - but it's just how I am. If I can't get it to work correctly when something else can - I'll likely just sell it and use the other thing.

I do appreciate everyone's help though - I was hoping it was an easy setting change or something.
 
Patzag said:
I hope support can help you out.
I do have one more theory. Is it possible your IEC cable might be faulty or the AC outlet miswired? It really sounds like it.
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He did say that multiple outlets were tried cuz I suggested the same thing.

But good idea about the power cable.
 
So all very good advice here, my 2 cents would be to get a power conditioner for starters, like Furman Power Conditioner (SS6B) for reasonable cost, and if you have a bit more of a budget then Furman AC-215A would be my recommendation (I'm using one for my FM9) be sure amp and FM9 are pugged into the same conditioner, would not hurt to change out the power cable for $7.00 as well as the cable chain, I'd replace them all personally. Wall tester as Unix-Guy recommends is essential imo, in the signal chain be sure you don't have any funny patch that has gain up to a crazy level that amplifying any of the effects in an obscure way,(not even sure if that possible) anyways, try building a flat/clean patch input output shunts only and see how that sounds. One last comment can you hear that sound with headphones pugged in? GL
 
DaveO said:
So all very good advice here, my 2 cents would be to get a power conditioner for starters, like Furman Power Conditioner (SS6B) for reasonable cost, and if you have a bit more of a budget then Furman AC-215A would be my recommendation (I'm using one for my FM9) be sure amp and FM9 are pugged into the same conditioner, would not hurt to change out the power cable for $7.00 as well as the cable chain, I'd replace them all personally. Wall tester as Unix-Guy recommends is essential imo, in the signal chain be sure you don't have any funny patch that has gain up to a crazy level that amplifying any of the effects in an obscure way,(not even sure if that possible) anyways, try building a flat/clean patch input output shunts only and see how that sounds. One last comment can you hear that sound with headphones pugged in? GL
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I appreciate the recommendation - but I have 2 rack mounted Furman power conditioners plugged into separate outlets in my studio desk. I've tested with those and stand alone outlets with the same result. I also have a drawer full of power cables and I've tested separate ones of those as well.

The patch doesn't really matter because as you can see in my video - the noise starts as soon as the unit is plugged into power - but doesn't even have to be powered on (the power switch on that is). As soon as power starts to flow into it from the cable (even power switch off) - the noise begins. If I unplug it from the wall - it stops. It makes the noise without even having a guitar plugged into the FM9 - just the any output going to the front of the amp or effects return of an amp.

I found an FM3 thread where a guy had a similar issue (notice how he describes the same thing as me in the digital pulsing noise):
https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/fm3-in-front-of-amp.2330386/

It sounds like nothing worked for him until me move the FM3 far away from the amp. I have NOT tried that yet - working now but I'll give it a shot later.
 
Just tried the proximity thing - that didn't make a difference BUT I did discover something new. As I turn up the gain on the amp the noise gets louder to a point where it actually farts or something - it's doing that click, click pulsing noise at lower gain levels like in my video and bout noon on gain it just does this huge fart noise. While comical - now that means I can't even turn up the gain on my amp.
 
I looked into the Terror Stamp and found this post:

Listen to the clip posted. And read the other comments.
You might consider another amplification solution.
 
Nimbas said:
Just tried the proximity thing - that didn't make a difference BUT I did discover something new. As I turn up the gain on the amp the noise gets louder to a point where it actually farts or something - it's doing that click, click pulsing noise at lower gain levels like in my video and bout noon on gain it just does this huge fart noise. While comical - now that means I can't even turn up the gain on my amp.
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Do you mean without the FM3?
 
Patzag said:
I looked into the Terror Stamp and found this post:

Listen to the clip posted. And read the other comments.
You might consider another amplification solution.
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That is very similar - but I tried it into a Boss Katana and it does the same thing (front and effects loop). I wanted to use my Katana as a power amp so looks like that's a no go.

I wish I had a (good) amp to try with it - but I don't.
 
Nimbas said:
That is very similar - but I tried it into a Boss Katana and it does the same thing (front and effects loop). I wanted to use my Katana as a power amp so looks like that's a no go.

I wish I had a (good) amp to try with it - but I don't.
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Sorry mate. I’m fresh out of ideas now. Maybe you can borrow a friends amp (solid state basic amp) and see if the problem continues.
I’m also wondering what will happen with the Helix pedal.
Good luck!
 
Nimbas said:
That is very similar - but I tried it into a Boss Katana and it does the same thing (front and effects loop). I wanted to use my Katana as a power amp so looks like that's a no go.

I wish I had a (good) amp to try with it - but I don't.
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Although - if you read his post closely he says only effects loop - whereas I'm going into the front (though I hear the noise with both) and he says it's dead silent when hooked up to a cab - and that's where I hear it. He also says it's quiet and to me it's very loud.
 
Patzag said:
Sorry mate. I’m fresh out of ideas now. Maybe you can borrow a friends amp (solid state basic amp) and see if the problem continues.
I’m also wondering what will happen with the Helix pedal.
Good luck!
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No thanks a lot - I really appreciate the suggestions. My friend is stopping by at lunch with the HX Effects so we'll see.
 
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