Booster Pedal

Ugly Bunny said:
The red here that we're worried about is on the actual physical output LEDs; you can be in the red in the software VU meters with no issues, though, for preset leveling and sanity, you probably don't want to be dimed solid red the whole time. Most of my presets sit around +3dB (so just a little into the red).
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By physical output LEDs I assume you mean the ones on the face of the FM3 and I am not hitting red there. I know the sound of digital clipping and artifacts I didn't hear any where I was at so I just assumed all was well even though I am hitting a bit of red in the software output levels.
 
mr_fender said:
You can also use scene levels to add a few dB to your lead scene as well. No extra blocks needed.

Scene controllers would also let you control the level of specific blocks per scene as well. That would avoid causing any jumps in your reverb or delay tails as you switch scenes as well.
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I am realizing that this is the way to go. tbh I was being a bit of a puss and I was trying to keep the few buttons the FM3 has on its face dedicated to preset switching only and I hadn't ventured into scenes much. It isn't that hard to use them and I think I can cut down the amount of presets I use somewhat as well.
 
EricGlass said:
By physical output LEDs I assume you mean the ones on the face of the FM3 and I am not hitting red there. I know the sound of digital clipping and artifacts I didn't hear any where I was at so I just assumed all was well even though I am hitting a bit of red in the software output levels.
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Yep. Exactly. That's the clipping you don't want. You're not hurting anything by tickling the red inside the machine, or really even diming the VUs. I do like to go through each block using the preset leveling tool to make sure the most nominal signal is going into the next block for the best s:n ratio, but also making sure no to overload the next block. This is what I hated about the Helix; I would always end up digitally clipping one of the blocks and I'd have to find the culprit and rework the preset.
 
I would recommend that you use an external switch (such as a Boss FS7) to switch between Scenes. That leaves your FM3 switches free to do your preset switching. Or you can do what I do: Once I have used a FM3 switch to select a Preset, I have the FM3 automatically switch to Scenes Layout that dedicates the FM3 switches to switching Scenes. I use an external switch to switch back to the Preset selection Layout.
 
chrisjnyc said:
The midi mouse only send program changes... but cant you use the custom midi map to switch a block or scene?
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You can use PC Mapping to map to a specific preset+scene combo.

That has to be done for every preset where this would be needed and restricts you to only control block on/off (and/or channel change) via changing scenes.

So technically, it is possible in a very specific way but probably not what most people want.
 
I had this exact pedal and used it for the same reasons... solo/volume boost. Always used it in the effects loop of my amp at the end of the chain. Worked like a charm!

Then I got the FM3 and didn't need it anymore... didn't need the amp either lol!
 
Randall d said:
I would recommend that you use an external switch (such as a Boss FS7) to switch between Scenes. That leaves your FM3 switches free to do your preset switching. Or you can do what I do: Once I have used a FM3 switch to select a Preset, I have the FM3 automatically switch to Scenes Layout that dedicates the FM3 switches to switching Scenes. I use an external switch to switch back to the Preset selection Layout.
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Hey that sounds great, can you tell me how you set it up to automatically switch to the scenes layout?
 
Slightly off topic perhaps, but you could also use the input boost option in the preamp page of the amp block. It’s got choices for clean boost, tube screamer etc. and a dial for the boost level. It’s a very nice option when you want a boost before the amp without the expence of a drive block. You can even toggle it on/off with a control switch or a scene controller.

Personally I would avoid the hassle of outboard gear when there’s so much options within the FM3
 
Just wanted to plug that the Spark is a great clean boost pedal, and I'm still using it even with my FM3 rig. If you feed it into a clean amp you will get a volume boost, but with an overdriven amp you most likely will only get a bump in gain. Realize that 20db of clean boost does not equate to 20db of volume change on any pedal to amp interaction, real or modeled. And as others have mentioned, gain staging is out the window if you are slamming the FM3 into the red.
 
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