Best way to convert PRS trem to down only

I can't advise enough to not use a T'No , They suck tone and don't work well. They get loose and clunk or interfere with the zero point when floating. The down bend only stop can't be engaged properly without tightening the springs slightly but then you can't disengage it. Basically it is a POS. I take more off than anything else with them.

I'm kind of baffled as to why Guthrie Govan has the tremol-no on his signature guitar. They seem like a huge compromise for a situation that simply calls for having two guitars. That said, he obviously makes them work for what he needs.
 
You can also just secure the wood block in the trem cavity with a couple small drops of white glue. If you ever want to remove it, just knock it off. A couple drops of white glue bonds just enough to keep in place.
 
I'm kind of baffled as to why Guthrie Govan has the tremol-no on his signature guitar. They seem like a huge compromise for a situation that simply calls for having two guitars. That said, he obviously makes them work for what he needs.
More than likely...he just wants to play one guitar and carry only one?
 
I'm kind of baffled as to why Guthrie Govan has the tremol-no on his signature guitar. They seem like a huge compromise for a situation that simply calls for having two guitars. That said, he obviously makes them work for what he needs.
Guthrie is a one guitar guy and he lives with the limitations and issues. He's well aware of them though.
 
You can also just secure the wood block in the trem cavity with a couple small drops of white glue. If you ever want to remove it, just knock it off. A couple drops of white glue bonds just enough to keep in place.

I’m going to try the double sided tape. Just have to clear my shop. My saws and tools have turned into storage units over the winter.
 
I can't advise enough to not use a T'No , They suck tone and don't work well. They get loose and clunk or interfere with the zero point when floating. The down bend only stop can't be engaged properly without tightening the springs slightly but then you can't disengage it. Basically it is a POS. I take more off than anything else with them.

I looked into those and decided to not go there. It seems that they can work as advertised for some people. But it sounds like it would be a real pain in the butt and more trouble than I want to deal with. I’m just going to block it.
 
I looked into those and decided to not go there. It seems that they can work as advertised for some people. But it sounds like it would be a real pain in the butt and more trouble than I want to deal with. I’m just going to block it.
No they are a bit shit for everyone. It just depends if you think that double stop bends are important enough in your playing and you don't want to work around other ways.
 
I can't advise enough to not use a T'No , They suck tone and don't work well. They get loose and clunk or interfere with the zero point when floating. The down bend only stop can't be engaged properly without tightening the springs slightly but then you can't disengage it. Basically it is a POS. I take more off than anything else with them.

If you got a clunk at zero point (or anywhere in the pivot) it was never set up properly.If you had to adjust springs to get the down only lock to work, again the initial setup (which includes having appropriate spring tension) was not correct.

I’ve used one for a decade with no issues at all (as have many users). I don’t doubt that you had these issues, but they are indicative of incorrect set-up (namely, the claw screws not being adjusted evenly or to appropriate tension of the springs - which, admittedly, takes some patience).
 
I'm kind of baffled as to why Guthrie Govan has the tremol-no on his signature guitar. They seem like a huge compromise for a situation that simply calls for having two guitars. That said, he obviously makes them work for what he needs.

They are not a huge compromise. Guthrie’s are just set up properly. Just like Bigsbys, players install them and don’t know how to do a proper setup and then blame the hardware.

By all means don’t use them if you don’t want to - but know that many players use them without issues (and without compromising anything other than the marginal extra cost).
 
If you got a clunk at zero point (or anywhere in the pivot) it was never set up properly.If you had to adjust springs to get the down only lock to work, again the initial setup (which includes having appropriate spring tension) was not correct.

I’ve used one for a decade with no issues at all (as have many users). I don’t doubt that you had these issues, but they are indicative of incorrect set-up (namely, the claw screws not being adjusted evenly or to appropriate tension of the springs - which, admittedly, takes some patience).
I'm a full time tech, I have been doing this for just under 35years. They also sent me one of the first ones to try. YES it is set up properly . The clunk is small but is caused by taking up the slop in the two hinges. The trouble is with the design. IF the hing is snug enough not to have any play in it it adds friction enough to prevent perfect return to pitch. Also the hinges are tiny and quickly wear to a point that introduces the little clunk.
From a sound perspective it is also poor because of this additional LOOSE connection between the bridge and the claw . Also the zinc claw is audibly worse sounding than the steel one.
IMG_1435.jpg
Then the thumb wheels fall out. This is a few in my junk draw that people have paid me to remove.
 
They are not a huge compromise. Guthrie’s are just set up properly. Just like Bigsbys, players install them and don’t know how to do a proper setup and then blame the hardware.

By all means don’t use them if you don’t want to - but know that many players use them without issues (and without compromising anything other than the marginal extra cost).
This is utter rubbish. Guthrie's clunk just the same but he is willing to make the compromise. I could give you chapter and verse on Bigsby but in another thread. Physics still applies to guitars and these designs have many fundamental flaws.
 
I'm a full time tech, I have been doing this for just under 35years. They also sent me one of the first ones to try. YES it is set up properly . The clunk is small but is caused by taking up the slop in the two hinges. The trouble is with the design. IF the hing is snug enough not to have any play in it it adds friction enough to prevent perfect return to pitch. Also the hinges are tiny and quickly wear to a point that introduces the little clunk.
From a sound perspective it is also poor because of this additional LOOSE connection between the bridge and the claw . Also the zinc claw is audibly worse sounding than the steel one.
View attachment 140115
Then the thumb wheels fall out. This is a few in my junk draw that people have paid me to remove.


LOL - yes the thumbwheel will fall out if not at exactly the right tension (I lost 1, but the current one has not fallen out for >5 years ...). Thanks for the additional context. As for the clunk - I consider myself quite sensitive to anything that is not smooth in the operation of a floating trem (including if there is play in the bar), and I can't feel anything on mine. So perhaps it's there, but if it's so small that I can't feel it, I don't care. As for tone, it's already affecting tone (and sustain) by using a floating trem, and for me it's just different (i.e., not objectively worse).

More importantly - what do you recommend as a better solution for temporarily locking a floating trem (i.e., for scenarios where a player needs a single instrument with a floating trem that can be locked for detuning)? I am not concerned with "down only" - I just need floating or fully locked. I ask not because I want to change the Tremol-no on my Suhr - but I'm planning a build using a bridge with which the Tremol-no is not compatible (according to the bridge manufacturer ... though some appear to have made it work) so would love to know if there is a better option.
 
I could give you chapter and verse on Bigsby but in another thread. Physics still applies to guitars and these designs have many fundamental flaws.

What do you recommend that will give a Bigsby sound but is better? I've tried several alternatives and although some do improve some of the perceived problems - the Stetsbar, for example - they don't sound the same, perhaps because the relative bend on the different strings is not the same as a Bigsby (though different Bigsbys models are themselves different - I use only B3s)?
 
I could give you chapter and verse on Bigsby but in another thread. Physics still applies to guitars and these designs have many fundamental flaws.

I, too, would be interested in your thoughts on Bigsby. I've only got one guitar with a Bigsby and it will never be my main guitar, but I would like to know more about it in general and what your recommendations for setup might be. If @skolacki or you would rather, I'll start a new thread for this as I don't want to hijack this one if this is too far OT.
 
I, too, would be interested in your thoughts on Bigsby. I've only got one guitar with a Bigsby and it will never be my main guitar, but I would like to know more about it in general and what your recommendations for setup might be. If @skolacki or you would rather, I'll start a new thread for this as I don't want to hijack this one if this is too far OT.

I am fine with it as is, keep it going. It’s all interesting to me.
 
I've done this a couple of times. Put a neck plate under the springs. Position it to where you need it and screw it down in the back. The holes in the front will be a little off the edge. Works great and doesn't cost a thing if you have a spare neck plate around.
 
LOL - yes the thumbwheel will fall out if not at exactly the right tension (I lost 1, but the current one has not fallen out for >5 years ...). Thanks for the additional context. As for the clunk - I consider myself quite sensitive to anything that is not smooth in the operation of a floating trem (including if there is play in the bar), and I can't feel anything on mine. So perhaps it's there, but if it's so small that I can't feel it, I don't care. As for tone, it's already affecting tone (and sustain) by using a floating trem, and for me it's just different (i.e., not objectively worse).

More importantly - what do you recommend as a better solution for temporarily locking a floating trem (i.e., for scenarios where a player needs a single instrument with a floating trem that can be locked for detuning)? I am not concerned with "down only" - I just need floating or fully locked. I ask not because I want to change the Tremol-no on my Suhr - but I'm planning a build using a bridge with which the Tremol-no is not compatible (according to the bridge manufacturer ... though some appear to have made it work) so would love to know if there is a better option.
No there is no other option which is the only reason some people persist with it in spite of the issues . I personally would keep one guitar set up down bend only for these things and go full floating for the rest.
 
I, too, would be interested in your thoughts on Bigsby. I've only got one guitar with a Bigsby and it will never be my main guitar, but I would like to know more about it in general and what your recommendations for setup might be. If @skolacki or you would rather, I'll start a new thread for this as I don't want to hijack this one if this is too far OT.
I will come back to it.
 
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