Approved Wireless MIDI That Doesn't Get Hot?

StillHill

StillHill

New Member
Hello,

I have been reading that the WIDI Master wireless bluetooth devices get really hot when using on an FM3 due to a missing resistor not present on the FM3.

I am looking for alternate solutions for wireless connecting to my ipad.

Is anyone having success with something else, or does this flaw affect all wireless dongles?
 
I use à Airstep xsonic. Cause I also wanted more switches.

As was also afraid of the problems with the midi/bluetooth on the fm3.

iPad (forscore) send midi CC via Bluetooth to the Airstep and the Airstep is plugged with a short midi cable to the fm3.

Been touring all days this summer, outdoor shows. Never had any problems.
 
Just be aware that this affects some units that draw power from the FM3’s MIDI din.

You could make the adapter with the resistor.
 
My Yamaha MDBT-01 does not get hot. Many reports here of ones that do, though. Don't know why mine doesn't. Just lucky, I guess.
 
Joshua_L said:
I use à Airstep xsonic. Cause I also wanted more switches.

As was also afraid of the problems with the midi/bluetooth on the fm3.

iPad (forscore) send midi CC via Bluetooth to the Airstep and the Airstep is plugged with a short midi cable to the fm3.

Been touring all days this summer, outdoor shows. Never had any problems.
Click to expand...
Can you maybe use Fracpad III via the Airstep? I'm looking for something similar since I also want more buttons. Was thinking of the Yamaha into an Hotone Ampero Control. Don't think either do midi merge, though. I don't think midi through would work with Fracpad.
 
Dutch said:
Can you maybe use Fracpad III via the Airstep? I'm looking for something similar since I also want more buttons. Was thinking of the Yamaha into an Hotone Ampero Control. Don't think either do midi merge, though. I don't think midi through would work with Fracpad.
Click to expand...
Hey @Dutch,

FYI - My Ampero control suddenly stopped receiving Bluetooth so I'm stuck with my last configuration with no ability to change it. First time a MIDI controller has ever failed me (RJM, Boss, Morningsar, Disaster Area, and some I've forgotten). Hopefully your milage does vary!
 
Dutch said:
Can you maybe use Fracpad III via the Airstep? I'm looking for something similar since I also want more buttons. Was thinking of the Yamaha into an Hotone Ampero Control. Don't think either do midi merge, though. I don't think midi through would work with Fracpad.
Click to expand...
I tried the lite version and didn’t manage to make it work. :(

Strange because forscore have no problem changing presets and CC with the Airstep.
 
I do know the communication that FracPad (and the AXE-Edit editors) use is way more complex than simple PC and CC. For one it is going both ways. But also the language is more complex. Long strings.
 
Joshua_L said:
I tried the lite version and didn’t manage to make it work. :(

Strange because forscore have no problem changing presets and CC with the Airstep.
Click to expand...
Anybody know where the thread about the overheating went to? There was a diy tutorial. Can't find it?
 
Just so I understand, the Widi device connected to the FM3 gets hot? Does it/did it fail for anyone due to this? I’m about to start programming my FM3 for a Widi jack, myself.
 
I have the WIDI-Jack for my FM9. It has a connector for a separate power supply if you don’t want to use power from your device. It seems stable and has good reviews. If you’re only sending midi to the FM3 for program change or whatever, that would work. I haven’t noticed it getting hot on the FM9 (using the power from the FM9 jack), but I’m not doing anything but powering it on right now.
 
Rick said:
I have the WIDI-Jack for my FM9. It has a connector for a separate power supply if you don’t want to use power from your device. It seems stable and has good reviews. If you’re only sending midi to the FM3 for program change or whatever, that would work. I haven’t noticed it getting hot on the FM9 (using the power from the FM9 jack), but I’m not doing anything but powering it on right now.
Click to expand...
That’s right. I’m using the usb on my light board to power a widi jack. As I need to send no midi, just receive, can anyone confirm the FM3 sends power out of the USB A port?? All you’d need is usb A to C cable
 
I was about to pick up 3 WIDIs but I'm glad I saw this thread first. Do all WIDI into FM3 heat up or just some users WIDIs? Can it be solved by using the WIDI Jack or any other of their products? If it's on all units, is there a manufacturer that makes the necessary adapter?
 
EDITED :
21:57 , The switch works fine and I still can't feel the temperature when I touch the device (cold).
22:57 , The switch works fine and I still can't feel the temperature when I touch the device (cold).
23:57 , The switch works fine and I still can't feel the temperature when I touch the device (cold).
24:57 , The switch works fine and I still can't feel the temperature when I touch the device (cold). TEST END


*My FM3 mk2t and these cuvave/m-vave wireless devices seem to be able to be used continuously for 4 hours without any signs of heat generation.

However, since the 5pin socket is very loose, it is expected to be quite a headache to secure these devices and prepare them for live performances. That's because while checking the temperature by touching it with my hand, I touched it a little crookedly, and I was embarrassed because the switch didn't work. (During the last test) I 'aligned' the device on the midi out side with my hand again, and the switch worked again normally.

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hi ,
I am using the FM3 mk2T and the M-vave wireless midi device I recently bought myself and the cuvave midi wireless switch I received as a gift.

Since I was interested in this topic, I decided to try testing it myself. The temperature in my room is 26'c as shown in the picture, and the FM3, widi device, and switch booted at 20:57 PM Korean time.

After booting is complete
wireless switch
I confirmed that by pressing it once, I was properly moved to the scene I had set.

Now, after 4 hours (the average time I think FM3 will be on continuously for small and large performances), I will touch the widi device with my hand and write more about how hot it feels.

The estimated test completion time is approximately 24:57 Korean time. Also, I will check by pressing the switch every hour to make sure that the batteries of the widi devices are not exhausted.


1.Setting of FM3 and wireless midi devices is complete.
IMG_7915.png

2.Time the test started
IMG_7916.png

3.Current temperature in the test room (degrees Celsius)
IMG_7917.png
 
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DC11GTR said:
I was about to pick up 3 WIDIs but I'm glad I saw this thread first. Do all WIDI into FM3 heat up or just some users WIDIs? Can it be solved by using the WIDI Jack or any other of their products? If it's on all units, is there a manufacturer that makes the necessary adapter?
Click to expand...
It may be solved by powering the jack via the usb port. Look into it. I didn’t get an answer upthread.
 
DC11GTR said:
I was about to pick up 3 WIDIs but I'm glad I saw this thread first. Do all WIDI into FM3 heat up or just some users WIDIs? Can it be solved by using the WIDI Jack or any other of their products? If it's on all units, is there a manufacturer that makes the necessary adapter?
Click to expand...

It's an unusual circumstance where some particular models don't have proper current limiting resistors, and the FM3 does not either. Some users have worked around it by either choosing different models, or making a little adapter (a connector or cable with an inline resistor soldered in).
 
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