So get some longer XLR cables then? For $10 per cable you can probably get a decent 10 meter XLR cable. €6,60 for one on Thomann. You can never have such a thing as too many cables.
Nope. They are the same.
Awesome speakers, for clean as well as dirty tones. But be aware that they need volume.
They only come alive with sufficient input signal. They're quite harsh and they lack bass at low volume.
The speaker's range goes to 7 Hz but at -10 dB or so. By using a GEQ to boost the level of those upper frequencies, I can get a very acceptable sound from my acoustic through an 12L, which isn't possible with other (non FR) guitar speakers.
Awesome speakers, for clean as well as dirty tones. But be aware that they need volume.
They only come alive with sufficient input signal. They're quite harsh and they lack bass at low volume.
I've been using 2 2x12s with EVL at 4ohm each with Matrix GT800FX and later with GT1000FX, both 1U height, and this set up kick asses. I tried a lot of power amps, tubed and digital, as well as cabs and speakers, and the best result where achieved with my actual rig and it's even better to my ears since Quantum firmware.
My cabs are cheap ones, Harley Benton, but they sound pretty good. I'll probably try another deeper one like Rectifier or Brunetti with that speakers, or try to make bass reflex ports on HB...
Thanks for your take on this! Much appreciated!Well, the early vote is not looking good for the FR212. My take on this cab? It is just a "bigger" FRFR solution, nearly identical to the "sound" of my RCF NX12s, just BIGGER, but with all the negatives I've come to associate with every other FRFR solution:
1.) Flat, lifeless (compared to cab w/ EVs)
2.) Way too much hi end from that big honking horn/ tweeter assembly
3.) way too much low end (probably the closed back/ ports)--I had to EQ low end heavily on every preset even with the cab decoupled from the floor.
3.) The neo speakers are loud (like my RCFs) but have none of the balls of the guitar cab w/ EVMs.
For those who want to tweak, maybe this can can be EQ'd to work (or maybe just find the right IR?) But, for what I want, this would be a lot of work when the EVs sound great with zero work.
I would hazard a guess that the time/ effort required to get the FR212 properly EQd would be a lot more than the EQ tweaks required to use an IR wit the EVs. Really, the IRs I've tried with the EVs are pretty good. Mostly, I just have to roll off a little low end.
If you are looking for an FRFR solution, this is probably as good as most. If you are looking for "cab in the room", you aren't going to find it here. The Matrix/ EVs have that, in spades.
Since I haven't tried the 800, I can't speak intelligently on this. But, I did talk to Andy at Matrix for a long time on this question. He said:
1.) There is a qualitative difference (not just power) between the 800 and the 1000
2.) He said there is also a qualitative difference between the 1000 and 1600. He said the 1600 is "better" but too powerful for the EVs. He said if you were using the FR212, the 1600 will sound better.
+1 Cables make a significant difference IMHO.Also, re: cables, I'm a cable freak. My pedal-boards are wired w/ Chord Company Cream and I'm pretty sure the cables were more $ than the pedals...
For this application, I am using Mogami 2549 with Neutrik XLRs from Axe to Matrix. But, more importantly, I had a custom set of speaker cables made from Analysis Plus Clear Oval. Cost me $200/ pair but no use putting junk cables between the Matrix and the EVs. This could be part of the reason I am so happy with this setup
Indeed it is. There's nothing like paying premium prices for gear to make you happy with its performance....I had a custom set of speaker cables made from Analysis Plus Clear Oval. Cost me $200/ pair but no use putting junk cables between the Matrix and the EVs. This could be part of the reason I am so happy with this setup
It's worse than that. A three pack of XLR cables comes up on MusiciansFriend.com's Stupid Deal of the Day with some frequency at $16. But the handling charges is $10, and the shipping is $12, so the whole price goes up to $38. So it more than doubles. The $10 handling charge on a $16 item galls me and I get bloody-minded about it.
I've had the cables in my cart on the SDotD offer twice now, and abandoned them at checkout over that $10 handling fee. They even sent me an email, "You have these items left in your cart...". I deleted it.
I looked in a local music store last weekend. Even cheap-ass cables cost more than $20. So I know the MF deal, even with the S&H is still a bargain.
But still. $10 handling on a $16 item???? I dunno if I can do it.
Indeed it is. There's nothing like paying premium prices for gear to make you happy with its performance.
For anyone who's interested, here are some cold, dispassionate looks at the real differences between cables:
- Graphic demonstration of cable frequency response
- How do different cables handle transient spikes?
- Will the patch cords on your pedalboard negate the tone of your premium guitar cables?
- Audio Cables Compared and Recommended
It's not oversimplified at all.I think this is vastly oversimplified...
It would be enlightening to repeat this test in a double-blind situation.Personally, I spent an entire evening in my studio several years ago testing this exact hypothesis, not w/ test instruments, but with my ears. I took about 10 different cables, ranging from crap to very high end, and plugged them into the same place over and over again.
Those differences can be attributed to differences in cable capacitance. In the articles I posted, the author acknowledges the fact that, in the case where you have a high output impedance (e.g., guitar pickups), cable capacitance can affect frequency response significantly. And, as you discovered, the most expensive cable doesn't always have the lowest capacitance. And sometimes, our ears prefer the signal changes that come with higher capacitance.There were BIG differences in sound...Now, this is all "instrument level" so cable length/ impedance definitely part.
With line-level signals, the differences would be inaudible.I suspect that line level signals would be less important...
That's exactly what I'm saying. The power amp-to-speaker connection is the least-demanding cable application there is. Unless you're running high wattage over long distances, 18-gauge zip cord will be audibly identical to the most expensive fancy-named speaker cable you can find. The boutique cable manufacturers are hoping you won't buy that (and hoping you won't test it, either (double-blind, remember? )).But, speaker cables, no difference? No WAY! Are you trying to say that 18 gauge garbage from Home Depot will sound exactly the same as Analysis Plus Clear Oval? I don't buy it for a second.
Of course no way. It just doesn't feel right to do that. Radio Shack cables are...well...cheap. They can't be as good as expensive cables. As long as that feeling is your gauge, the boutique cable companies will keep making money. Side note: my meters are more sensitive than your ears.But, am I going to start buying my cables at Radio Shack because your meters say "no difference"? No way
So my question is whether the magic lies in the GT1000 (2U) or can I get the the same mojo out of the GT800 in a bit cheaper, more compact way?
It's still cheaper then buying a FRFR cabinet though. It's also often a case of making an order big enough to qualify for free shipping. With Bax in the Netherlands from €50 onwards shipping is free. With Thomann in Germany its fom €60 onwards. Maybe there's other stuff you need? There's always other stuff you need. You can never have too many guitar strings in your personal stock. Or guitar picks? Or regular jack cables? And powerstrips?
Even then $26 is peanuts to solve your home playing problems. You'll spend that kind of money on a night out in the town hitting a few bars with your friends. If this is all that stands in the way to fixing your problems, just do it. After all, you probably spent 100x as much on the Axe and if you already went this far, what's keeping you from going that final step? Or maybe you could go to a local electronics store and just buy a couple of neutrik XLR plugs, some microphone cable and solder them yourself. It's not rocket science. Ground to 1, red to 2 and white to 3.