#1 Biggest User Error

When I first came to Boston I decided to go check out Harvard. Walked up to a student and asked him, "where's the library at?"
He told me at Harvard one does not end sentences with prepositions.
I said "o.k. Where's the library at asshole?"

I know "LOL" has typically been used as a tagline in posts, but I literally LOL'd when I read your post. More like a snort. That is f'ing hilarious!!
 
So don't be afraid to crank that MV up.

Cliff, I always use Presence shift and SAT [Auth] on MESA amps in the Axe-Fx II, actually I faced with this issue I mean Thinness when I'm using Presence shift and SAT, on the other hand I found my fav boogie tone when I'm using those switches, So in this case do you recommend me increase MV in order to get a fatter tone without having a compress and honky result ?, or I should try other options such as Low Res in SPKR Page, NEW Dynamic parameter in character section of Amp block, ...not to say I'm using Cab-pack 7.

Edit: I also turn the Bright and FAT switch ON,
my MV is on 4, Inputgain 5.75 and Overdrive 6 most of the time I'm on USA Lead brt+ and USA LEAD.
 
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Those amps don't have Master Volumes. We're talking about MASTER Volume here, not Volume.

Yes, I know that. I was just following on from that part of the conversation about amps being very loud initially at 1 or 2 except with the non master Marshall's, they sound like an icepick and very much broken so people tend to ignore them in guitar shops as they think they are going to be so loud on 8 that they never try that. That is why the Rock N Roll Baby(2150) was a good compromise. That is a great amp. Love mine.
I am aware of master volume sweet spots. I have been using an old JMP 2203 since 1982 and Boogie Mk3's since 1987. I have an SLO 100 too haha. That only sounds good when you get it past 3 or 4.
 
Cliff, I always use Presence shift and SAT [Auth] on MESA amps in the Axe-Fx II, actually I faced with this issue I mean Thinness when I'm using Presence shift and SAT, on the other hand I found my fav boogie tone when I'm using those switches, So in this case do you recommend me increase MV in order to get a fatter tone without having a compress and honky result ?
Follow Cliff's advice above to find the sweet spot for MV. If your tone still has issues, look elsewhere for the solution.
 
Is the old rule still true that if the modeled amp doesn't have a master volume control, you should set the MV at 10?
 
Yes, I know that. I was just following on from that part of the conversation about amps being very loud initially at 1 or 2 except with the non master Marshall's, they sound like an icepick and very much broken so people tend to ignore them in guitar shops as they think they are going to be so loud on 8 that they never try that. That is why the Rock N Roll Baby(2150) was a good compromise. That is a great amp. Love mine.
I am aware of master volume sweet spots. I have been using an old JMP 2203 since 1982 and Boogie Mk3's since 1987. I have an SLO 100 too haha. That only sounds good when you get it past 3 or 4.

Ahhhh, yes. Those amps are all designed to get their character from power amp distortion. If you don't push the power amp all you are hearing is the preamp which is voiced to be trebly. The power amp then compresses the highs and the sound gets fatter.
 
I used to have a road king II, and before selling it, thanks to the axe-fx, I played with it here and there, thing is, that the places I used to play were so small that I could crank the master volume up to 1 or 2, and it sounded reeeeally thin and harsh (no power amp distortion!). 100watt heads are so a waste of money for small gigs....
 
Oh damniiit....
And I thought I've learned what i was doing wrong with my amp tones - Keeping the master way too high (4-6), which is contrary to how these amps are recorded in production (2-3).
If knobs on these virtual amps don't work like their real equivalents, it gets really confusing! :D
Wish it wasn't so... These differences are problematic, specifically to the learning curve.

Like, if the real amp doesn't have a master volume, why not remove the knob in the axe too? Or add it into an "advanced" page...
Or, name the knobs properly (like on the real amp)?

These differences should be explained in the "Amp: all models" wiki page at least, for every amp...
 
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Oh damniiit....
And I thought I've learned what i was doing wrong with my amp tones - Keeping the master way too high (4-6)
if it sounds right, it is right.

i once bought a mesa roadster and copied petrucci's road king settings. it didn't sound good. instead of leaving the settings there, i changed them until they sounded good.

there are no rules for tone, only suggestions. do what sounds right for your setup and preference.
 
Oh damniiit....
And I thought I've learned what i was doing wrong with my amp tones - Keeping the master way too high (4-6), which is contrary to how these amps are recorded in production (2-3).
If knobs on these virtual amps don't work like their real equivalents, it gets really confusing! :D
Wish it wasn't so... These differences are problematic, specifically to the learning curve.
Those differences will Free your Mind, my brother. They just reinforce the main lesson of dialing in the Axe-Fx: use your ears. The gain-master volume interaction is fundamental to dialing in a tone, even on "real" amps. And you can only do that by ear. There is no other judge of tone than your own ears. Once you make your peace with that, the learning curve will get a whole lot easier.
 
This should be added to the Cliff's Notes article on gain controls!! Great explanation here, and MV has such a big effect on gain and how you use the other gain parameters.
 
When I first came to Boston I decided to go check out Harvard. Walked up to a student and asked him, "where's the library at?"
He told me at Harvard one does not end sentences with prepositions.
I said "o.k. Where's the library at asshole?"

Hahaha I live in Boston and you just made so happy with that story.
 
My Jet City has two distinct points of response in the MV. The first is crossed around 3, where the amp wakes up and starts breathing properly. The second is around 5, where it really starts roaring. I've checked it with a meter and the amp stops gaining volume soon after - at about 6 - and simply compresses and sags more. So if you set it to noon and think "jesus how much louder does this thing get when all the way", the answer is none.

This reminds me of the real Shiva and the Duende. The Duende not as much because of the lower wattage but both amps are pretty loud right out of the gate and it makes turning the knob further kinda scary but that's where the real tone begins. The same if true for the modeled shiva imho. At lower volumes the shiva doesn't sound all that impressive but once it's turned up to 75% or higher it really starts to get more expressive.
 
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