Fender FR-12 preamp mod : The Hissterectomy

That is a beautiful thing!!!
Indeed. I'm a little short of cash right now, though 😅
Donald Duck Money GIF
 
You don't have to mod it lol

But there could certainly be speakers out there that are better for you (keeping in mind that what's better for one person may not be better for another).
I agree that you don't have to mod it -- but, if there's unacceptable hiss that the noise gate on the Fractal cannot contain, then (IMO) this speaker may not be a good choice
 
I agree that you don't have to mod it -- but, if there's unacceptable hiss that the noise gate on the Fractal cannot contain, then (IMO) this speaker may not be a good choice

My 1st was the Headrush FR112 for under $400. It’s been replaced by a Celestion F12 and a Crown amp. Both of these are quiet. I really hope Fender will fix it. Pretty lame they let it out the door with a noise problem. Makes them look bad.
 
I agree that you don't have to mod it -- but, if there's unacceptable hiss that the noise gate on the Fractal cannot contain, then (IMO) this speaker may not be a good choice
I have no issues with my 2 FR12’s. There’s a slight hiss in there but I hardly notice it. It’s no different than what i hear on my CLR’s even. That’s just normal for me. I don’t think the hiss is the same for everyone and/or the level of what is tolerated i think is very subjective. I have no plans of modding my cabs at all. They’re absolutely awesome at stock though I’ve been enjoying this mod thread discussion. Some incredible work being done
 
I agree that you don't have to mod it -- but, if there's unacceptable hiss that the noise gate on the Fractal cannot contain, then (IMO) this speaker may not be a good choice
The hiss is unacceptable for some and fine for others. If someone finds it unacceptable, they don't need a gate to contain it--the cut knob on the FR does the trick. Turn up the cut high enough to reduce the hiss. Then add a bit more highs back in via the fractal IF you need to.
 
Pretty lame they let it out the door with a noise problem. Makes them look bad.
This was my insight based on the findings revealed in this thread! I'm sure it's sounds great and based on the reviews here I have no doubt as the people here tend to be pretty critical including myself when it comes to how a modeling rig should sound through a FR solution!

The fact it needs modding to get rid of issues that are there shows a get it to market fast it's fine the way it is mentality. That might be fine for the masses which is how it's priced and has been mentioned. The one thing that still remains to be seen is reliability and longevity.
 
Would y'all be interested in helping tune the crossover stage with a video a/b and a poll?

Spice says I can tune the crossover properly and eliminate the notch at 2.75kHz

It may sound better with the factory notch, and I am biased toward tuning it properly.

It would be possibly a contribution into fixing the FR-12 problems forever. Or I may be obsessing over small details.

So perhaps a blind poll of 1 vs 2
...or 3 I don't hear any difference. ?

Hit the like button if you would play along with good monitors or headphones. 🙂
 
The hiss is unacceptable for some and fine for others. If someone finds it unacceptable, they don't need a gate to contain it--the cut knob on the FR does the trick. Turn up the cut high enough to reduce the hiss. Then add a bit more highs back in via the fractal IF you need to.
Pretty sure if you turn up the cut, you can't really add more highs in the Fractal, as that high cut will still be cutting any highs you might be trying to introduce back into the signal.
 
Pretty sure if you turn up the cut, you can't really add more highs in the Fractal, as that high cut will still be cutting any highs you might be trying to introduce back into the signal.
That's not how it works. And I actually did it. I'm not guessing. :)

Edit: to clarify, look at the pic @WKSmith posted:
IMG_3558.png

The cut knob reduces the levels from the red line down to the blue line. Consider what happens when you offset that reduction by boosting the red line by a corresponding amount.
 
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That's not how it works. And I actually did it. I'm not guessing. :)

Edit: to clarify, look at the pic @WKSmith posted:
View attachment 128798

The cut knob reduces the levels from the red line down to the blue line. Consider what happens when you offset that reduction by boosting the red line by a corresponding amount.
Oh interesting, thanks for the clarification. That's good then. Might be more appropriate to name the knob "hiss reduction" instead of "high cut" lol, i bet that's what it will be used for more often.
 
For posterity's sake, i can confirm that the EQ section is indeed the source of hiss in these amps, as @WKSmith mentioned before. As such, noise performance can be greatly improved just by changing a few opamps for better quality, low-noise alternatives.

I did this on my FR-12, and it's genuinely a night and day difference :hearteyes: Hiss is now barely measurable over ambient noise, and about what you'd expect from a "normal" quality FRFR: barely noticeable sitting right next to the amp, and completely inaudible just a couple feet away.

PXL_20231029_030648627.jpg

I wrote all details at https://thegearforum.com/threads/fender-fr-10-fr-12-noise-reduction-mod.3559/
 
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For posterity's sake, i can confirm that the EQ section is indeed the source of hiss in these amps, as @WKSmith mentioned before. As such, noise performance can be greatly increased just by changing a few opamps for better quality, low-noise alternatives.

I did this on my FR-12, and it's genuinely a night and day difference :hearteyes: Hiss is now barely measurable over ambient noise, and about what you'd expect from a "normal" quality FRFR: barely noticeable sitting right next to the amp, and completely inaudible just a couple feet away.

View attachment 128822

I wrote all details at https://thegearforum.com/threads/fender-fr-10-fr-12-noise-reduction-mod.3559/
Lysander, would you measure the power supply voltage at the ICs ..when you have it open again please?

Mine has a delta of 37.2V. I'm curious what the Euro versions read.
 
Lysander, would you measure the power supply voltage at the ICs ..when you have it open again please?

Mine has a delta of 37.2V. I'm curious what the Euro versions read.

Rats, i already closed mine shut :sweat: but that seems a tad too high? The power supply for the entire preamp board is +/- 12VDC (from the power amp section), so i'm not sure how you could get that difference. Note that TL084s and RC4558s are rated for 30VDC total as well.

Were you measuring against the ground pin(s) for each IC? I didn't see any obvious split grounds or anything that could account for the delta, tbh.
 
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Rats, i already closed mine shut :sweat: but that seems a tad too high? The power supply for the entire preamp board is +/- 12VDC (supplied by the power amp section), so i'm not sure how you could get that difference. Note that TL084s and RC4558s are rated for 30VDC total as wee.

Were you measuring against the ground pin(s) for each IC? I didn't see any obvious split grounds or anything that could account for the difference, tbh.
Yes it should be +18 and -18 referenced to ground. 37.2 is indeed too high for the ICs.

The 30v max for the 4558 and TL08x is for the input. The supply side though is rated at +/- 18v (36v) max

The gain they have set in stage 2 is clipping those 30v inputs from a +4 input ..even with burr brown 2134s in it.

The 2134 clips almost rail to rail. +/- .7 v from the supply rails ( 34.6v)

The stock gain settings of X 7.67 with a +4dB input is clipping the 2nd stage hard.
At 6.58v of clipping for the 4558 and TL08x
And 1.99v of clipping for the 2134.
 
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Yes it should be +18 and -18 referenced to ground. 37.2 is indeed too high for the ICs.

The 30v max for the 4558 and TL08x is for the input. The supply side though is rated at +/- 18v (36v) max

The gain they have set in stage 2 is clipping those 30v inputs from a +4 input ..even with burr brown 2134s in it.

The 2134 clips almost rail to rail. +/- .7 v from the supply rails ( 34.6v)

Maybe the design is (slightly) unstable as well? I'm not sure if the TL084 is compensated, so opamp oscillation is not out of the question...
 
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