Basically, I did everything I could to minimize friction/contact points. Theory being, it either needs to be locked or have zero friction, anything in between will cause instability.
1) switched to the "FST" style trem block. It was like 80 bucks or so for a whole new bridge with this block. It's the same bridge, but the FST trem block is way different, and minimizes contact/friction points. the problem is, the "custom" part of the bridge from Charvel is the height of the block (it's shorter than standard), so in order to fit it, I had to raise the bridge height on the pins, and drop the saddles way down, and modify the opening in the rear cover (or leave it off) to keep the block from dragging the cover and provide access to the string holes. I dropped my lowest saddle all the way down to contact the bridge plate and raised the pin as much as possible. At that point, the saddle screws all stuck out the top and rubbed my hand palm muting, so I put in shorter screws and it's all good now. The size of the block does limit the upward float of the bridge unless you grind away some body. I get about half a step on the B/G strings I think. Personally, I don't need a lot (I limit my floyds intentionally already), so this isn't an issue for me.
2) Whatever those little pins in the headstock are called, that you run the string under before reaching the tuner... don't use them. they add more friction, even if you lube them. It looks kind of funny to have the string passing way over the top of them, and I was a bit worried about it since the headstock is not angled back that the strings may jump out of the slots, but it hasn't been an issue. I also do not dive bomb it, so there's that.
3) lube the saddles and nut (especially the nut). I do the saddles with a string change, I do the nut whenever I notice an issue. I usually notice any issues on the G-string only, so maybe the nut just isn't slotted quite right for it.
Doing those three things it's pretty good, much better than stock. I do the same thing on my hipshot fixed bridge guitars. I do use elixir nanowebs, which keeps the contact on the wound strings a little slicker, not sure but that might help too.
