Wilkinson wvs1302p on a charvel pro mod gotoh 510?

The instructions are from Suhr support via email:

We'd like to paste some notes on changing strings on your guitar equipped with Suhr locking tuners and Wilkinson WVS-130 bridge below.

1) De-tune the string until the hole in the tuning post is lined up with the nut slot of the particular string. There will be slack in the string.
2) Loosen the knurled knob on the back of the tuning machine and remove the string from the post. (You can loosen these completely. The knobs won’t fall out)
3) Use the 2mm locking screw wrench to loosen the black locking screw on the top of the saddle. (There’s no need to remove these screws completely and we would advise against doing so, in order to keep the screws from being misplaced)
4) Completely remove the string by pulling it thru the block as you would normally.
5) Go back to the tuning posts and check that the string hole in the post is lined up with the nut slot for the string. We want the string to pass straight thru the post with no wraps.
6) Install the new string by pushing it thru the block as you would normally.
7) Run the string over the top of the appropriate saddle and nut slot and thru the tuning post. The string should be under the edge of the black saddle locking screw when the string is pulled thru the post with tension.
8) While pulling the string thru the center of the tuning post hole, and holding the string in place with tension applied, tighten the knurled knob on the back of the tuner. Don’t over tighten or use a wrench, but apply enough torque so that the string won’t pull out of the post.
9) Tune to pitch
10) There are 4 string "witness" points. The saddle, front of the nut, rear of the nut and tuning post. Starting at the saddle, press each string down gently just before (fretboard side) the saddle/string contact point. Do the same at the front and rear of each nut slot. Also press the string at each tuning post. The idea is to remove any slack in the string at these points of contact and create more crisp break angles in the strings. This, combined with gently stretching new strings by bending them as you would during normal use, should go a long way towards stabilizing the tuning of your guitar.
11) Tighten the black locking screw on the top of the saddle (2mm wrench) Again, apply enough torque to lock the string in place, but there is no need to over tighten.
12) Check tuning one more time (locking the strings down in the last step may pull the string a few cents sharp), re tune if necessary.

12) Done!
Thanks! That looks familiar, but I wasn’t able to find it. My Suhr also has the Wilkinson with locking saddles, so I’ll hold onto that info for future ref.
 
Encouraging to hear good experiences with the trem. Mine is due to arrive on Friday so will have to watch some vids on installing a trem as this will be my first time. Other than just getting the right tension with claws/springs to have the trem sit level will be the saddle heights and likely intonation tweaks
 
The locking saddles are good for the 510 with the locking tuners. Sometimes, on the promod model is also useful to try different locking tuners. Gotoh has the post adjustable ones as well. Use the nut sauce and check the nut cut properly. The angle is also key. You should be able to abuse it fairly ok but even with that it is not a Floyd Rose so you can not Bonn dive for days without issue. I tune after every song on my GG guitars but I rather not have a locking nut.
 
The locking saddles are good for the 510 with the locking tuners. Sometimes, on the promod model is also useful to try different locking tuners. Gotoh has the post adjustable ones as well. Use the nut sauce and check the nut cut properly. The angle is also key. You should be able to abuse it fairly ok but even with that it is not a Floyd Rose so you can not Bonn dive for days without issue. I tune after every song on my GG guitars but I rather not have a locking nut.
The string trees seriously don't help. Pitty they don't fit staggered locking tuners instead.
 
I initially had some stability issues on my new DK24 Charvel with the Gotoh 410 trem and locking tuners. I found that it needed a setup which included properly re-slotting the nut and adjusting the bridge to my liking. Afterwards I still had some issues so I deleted the middle string tree which made it much better but I also noticed that the inner lock down screws for the bridge height were loose so I tightened those down. Finally I added 1 spring because the bridge action was really soft and I like it to be a touch stiffer. Now it is 100% stable. I may try those locking saddles just to see what they are - basically market research for my shop - but I don't think of it as necessary for stable tuning. Most trem stability problems can be solved with the proper setup in my experience.
 
The string trees seriously don't help. Pitty they don't fit staggered locking tuners instead.
Correct. String trees are not a great option if you trem a lot. I use the Spertzels or The Gotohs. Both are great. The S's a little better - maybe a tab lighter. I don't really like using a double locking system but the trem on the GG Charvel is a great option. Still can go out of tune and really if you must stay in tune it is the normal suspects....edge, floyd and even then. Steve Vai says his guitars go out about 25% of the time. Still alot for me to put up with DL system. Go single lock and set it up correct is the way I like it. I used to use the Gotoh 510 - it is solid and can work well if set up and adjusted. I am not sure why the GG old school floyd is not more popular. It has to be one of the nicest trems to use....Charvel made it so I am surprised Gotoh or Ibanez hasn't copied it yet. But it would take modification to your guitar but the trem arm is far better.
 
The string trees seriously don't help. Pitty they don't fit staggered locking tuners instead.
I am a fan of staggered locking tuners - especially the Hipshot ones - but they don't always provide enough break angle. This is most noticeable at the G string on a 6 string guitar with a flat headstock. In this case the G string slot needs to be perfectly dialed in to get a clear open string note. Sometimes when it's really bad I will add some wraps to the G string to increase the break angle but this is not an ideal solution. I find this happens more on guitars where the headstock has a lot of flex in it. It flexes in towards the fretboard under tension and those last three tuners rise up in relation to the nut.
 
I initially had some stability issues on my new DK24 Charvel with the Gotoh 410 trem and locking tuners. I found that it needed a setup which included properly re-slotting the nut and adjusting the bridge to my liking. Afterwards I still had some issues so I deleted the middle string tree which made it much better but I also noticed that the inner lock down screws for the bridge height were loose so I tightened those down. Finally I added 1 spring because the bridge action was really soft and I like it to be a touch stiffer. Now it is 100% stable. I may try those locking saddles just to see what they are - basically market research for my shop - but I don't think of it as necessary for stable tuning. Most trem stability problems can be solved with the proper setup in my experience.
The saddles add a bit something to it, but you can get there without them. On the Charvel GG they 100% make a difference on a 510 system it is 50% user vs device.
 
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