Wilkinson wvs1302p on a charvel pro mod gotoh 510?

Touch wood it has been a lot better - it was only the d string that would break (I use nyxl).
My trem is set to flutter so I can pull back a little.
Other than the G string the tuning was good before the saddles. Rock solid now with the saddles.
Great. It's only to stop the strings moving on the witness point when you use the trem and that doesn't need to be tight really. These saddles are a good design that deals with the issue almost completely. I have a set on my Suhr modern that had this problem and now it stays in tune as well as a Floyd.
 
This is a copy of something that was around in the early to mid 80s, looks horrible and only works if your bridge is perfect. IME if you fit the locking saddles and the nut is well cut you won't need this horrible thing anyway and it won't work if your bridge has issues anyway.
I guess I got lucky because it works perfectly for me. I don't think it looks any worse than a Floyd locking nut.
 
I just got a John Suhr Signature Standard that has the Wilkinson WVS130 Locking Bridge. I used Nut Juice and I am not sure what the deal is, but tuning stability is good, but not after getting on the bar. I have it floating for what I read is a Jeff Beck setting, the G pulls up 1 & 1/2 steps. Strings should be stretched out. It came set up to factory standard, 4/64", and I don't have anything to measure the neck relief exactly but it feels right when I capo the first fret, fret the 17th and there is just a bit of space at the 7th fret. I've seen some YT videos where guys are getting on the bar pretty hard and staying in tune.
 
I just got a John Suhr Signature Standard that has the Wilkinson WVS130 Locking Bridge. I used Nut Juice and I am not sure what the deal is, but tuning stability is good, but not after getting on the bar. I have it floating for what I read is a Jeff Beck setting, the G pulls up 1 & 1/2 steps. Strings should be stretched out. It came set up to factory standard, 4/64", and I don't have anything to measure the neck relief exactly but it feels right when I capo the first fret, fret the 17th and there is just a bit of space at the 7th fret. I've seen some YT videos where guys are getting on the bar pretty hard and staying in tune.
I need quite a bit more than that to diagnose your issue. I need a picture of the bridge (to show the angel) and how your strings are attached to the tuners for a start.
 
Check to make sure that the locking tuners are finger tight. Also check that the lock screws on the saddles are snug against the strings. Don't overtighten anything because you don't want to damage the hardware.
 
Locking tuners are finger tight, the bridge saddle locks are tight, but I don't think overtightened, just as far as the allen wrench would do using normal amount of force. Nut Juice on the nut slots. The bridge is floating so that if I fret an A 2nd fret G string, I can pull up to C. 1 & 1/2 steps on the G string, about a step on B and E strings. Did my best with the pictures, and appreciate you taking a look! Also intonation is set and the neck relief is slight and about the .127mm as close I could measure, about a 1/8 of a mm when fretting 1st fret and 17th fret measuring at the 7th fret. action is is 4/64" on the 22nd fret. Pup height is Suhr factor specs
  • ALL SINGLE COILS: LOW E 8/64” (3.175mm) HIGH E 6/64” (2.381mm)
  • NECK HUMBUCKER: LOW E 7/64” (2.778mm) HIGH E 6/64” (1.587mm)
  • BRIDGE HUMBUCKER: LOW E 6/64” (2.381mm) HIGH E 5/64” (1.984mm)

I did not mess with the bridge plate at all, I think it came with .009s, I bought it used in mint condition from a dealer on Reverb. Because when I put .010s on it the bridge came up high. All adjustments I did were on the screws on the back spring box to back them off a little bit when I changed strings.
 

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Straight up I would say the way the strings are on the tuners is your issue. With locking tuners the string should not have a full wrap around the peg . You need to pull the string hand tight through the hole lock it and tune UP to pitch (never down, go below and then up).Half a wrap and you should be there on all but the high E .Only when you are stretch tuned should you lock down the saddles .The rest looks fine and I'm sure that will do it.
 
Straight up I would say the way the strings are on the tuners is your issue. With locking tuners the string should not have a full wrap around the peg . You need to pull the string hand tight through the hole lock it and tune UP to pitch (never down, go below and then up).Half a wrap and you should be there on all but the high E .Only when you are stretch tuned should you lock down the saddles .The rest looks fine and I'm sure that will do it.
I wasn't sure about that, I read something that made me change from the 1/2 wrap to a full. Internet was wrong. Thanks man, I'll give it a shot.
 
The internet is full of bad advice. It is a problem if you are new to something . Reverse stringing a Floyd HaHaHa. Watching Darrell on youTube.:tearsofjoy:
 
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The internet is full of bad advice. It is a problem if you are new to something . Reverse stringing a Floyd HaHaHa. Watching Darrell on youTube.:tearsofjoy:
And if it is not broke don't fix it... I am susceptible to trying to overly optimize. I could have just looked at my older Suhr with a Gotoh 510 and it stays in tune with a lot of tremolo usage. I wasn't wrapping the strings, and don't remember why the source said that would be better. Thanks all.
 
Are the WLS130 only available on the Reverb store generally? I may be looking to source these in the near future and did a cursory Internet search and nada.
 
Are the WLS130 only available on the Reverb store generally? I may be looking to source these in the near future and did a cursory Internet search and nada.
Only place I've found... And oddly enough I randomly checked last night. They have the offset ones in stock but not the others.
 
I've had a few conversations with the people at Wilkinson, and they have confirmed to me their only online store at this point is via Reverb.

They are very friendly and approachable if you message them directly through Reverb, they tend to respond quickly. I was badgering them for a while about the WLS130 and finally grabbed a set a couple of months back when they briefly replenished their stock.
 
I ordered the Wilkinson bridge with the locking saddles already but I spoke with Wilkinson's contact on their Reverb store and was told that they'd have the wls130 saddles likely available mid June if anyone is still looking. Keep an eye out
 
Great. It's only to stop the strings moving on the witness point when you use the trem and that doesn't need to be tight really. These saddles are a good design that deals with the issue almost completely. I have a set on my Suhr modern that had this problem and now it stays in tune as well as a Floyd.
My Strat and SE Standard 24 both have these, and stay in tune very well for mild stuff. Likely some love needed at the nut on both....
 
Since then, from the advice on this forum, and pulling down Suhr's instructions, this JS Custom stays in tune. Tuning stability is awesome, better than any other guitar I've had with a trem.
Can you point us to the instructions from Suhr, please? (Didn’t see that in an earlier post.)

Is it this video?

 
Can you point us to the instructions from Suhr, please? (Didn’t see that in an earlier post.)

Is it this video?


The instructions are from Suhr support via email:

We'd like to paste some notes on changing strings on your guitar equipped with Suhr locking tuners and Wilkinson WVS-130 bridge below.

1) De-tune the string until the hole in the tuning post is lined up with the nut slot of the particular string. There will be slack in the string.
2) Loosen the knurled knob on the back of the tuning machine and remove the string from the post. (You can loosen these completely. The knobs won’t fall out)
3) Use the 2mm locking screw wrench to loosen the black locking screw on the top of the saddle. (There’s no need to remove these screws completely and we would advise against doing so, in order to keep the screws from being misplaced)
4) Completely remove the string by pulling it thru the block as you would normally.
5) Go back to the tuning posts and check that the string hole in the post is lined up with the nut slot for the string. We want the string to pass straight thru the post with no wraps.
6) Install the new string by pushing it thru the block as you would normally.
7) Run the string over the top of the appropriate saddle and nut slot and thru the tuning post. The string should be under the edge of the black saddle locking screw when the string is pulled thru the post with tension.
8) While pulling the string thru the center of the tuning post hole, and holding the string in place with tension applied, tighten the knurled knob on the back of the tuner. Don’t over tighten or use a wrench, but apply enough torque so that the string won’t pull out of the post.
9) Tune to pitch
10) There are 4 string "witness" points. The saddle, front of the nut, rear of the nut and tuning post. Starting at the saddle, press each string down gently just before (fretboard side) the saddle/string contact point. Do the same at the front and rear of each nut slot. Also press the string at each tuning post. The idea is to remove any slack in the string at these points of contact and create more crisp break angles in the strings. This, combined with gently stretching new strings by bending them as you would during normal use, should go a long way towards stabilizing the tuning of your guitar.
11) Tighten the black locking screw on the top of the saddle (2mm wrench) Again, apply enough torque to lock the string in place, but there is no need to over tighten.
12) Check tuning one more time (locking the strings down in the last step may pull the string a few cents sharp), re tune if necessary.

12) Done!
 
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