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Whatever. I get all my facts off of movies and Facebook.
Also, how dare you question the great legendary roadie Del Preston!
Yep... I've found this works well with all the tuners I've used.I did a quick tuning test by plucking at the 12th fret. FWIW on the AF3 the two methods seemed to agree better. YMMV.
@yek there's some stuff to be wikied up here!The strobe tuner and bar tuner use different algorithms. The bar tuner measures the average period of the waveform. The strobe tuner works like, well, a strobe tuner. It "demodulates" the signal with a quadrature oscillator. This effectively measures the fundamental ONLY. The frequency of the fundamental will not necessarily match that of the overall waveform.
So it's like having two tuners, a traditional tuner and a strobe tuner running simultaneously and, just as with separate physical tuners, the results may not necessarily be the same.
A guitar string is not perfect. The resonances of the overtones aren't always perfect integer multiples of the fundamental. This is exacerbated by the pickups which pull on the strings and cause the overtones to be off (in extreme cases causing the dreaded "stratitis").
Which measurement is correct? That's up to you decide. Some people prefer the sound of the strings being tuned to the frequency of the overall waveform. Others prefer the results of a strobe tuner.
When I strike a string to tune, I am getting 3 very different readings from the Axe strobe, the Axe linear tuner and (by far the worst) the FC12 tuner.
I have a suggestion, since your ready to buy a Peterson anyway why not instead just try resetting the tuning offsets on the Axe-Efx to the Peterson Sweetened Tuning offsets first and see if that helps.
For those that aren't aware of what I'm talking about reset your tuning offsets as follows.
- E1 = -2.3 cent
- B2 = 0
- G3 = 0
- D4 = -0.4 Cent
- A5 = -2.1 Cent
- E6 = -2.3 Cent
Works on my 24 or 25 inch scale necks (Gibson and Fender)...I'm gonna try those. Any info on what scale length they work best for? I have a Les Paul and JP15
Thanks! I've always struggled with intonation and tuning that works lower and higher on the fretboard. I gave this a shot and it sounded better to me. Going to keep playing with it but so far is good.I have a suggestion, since your ready to buy a Peterson anyway why not instead just try resetting the tuning offsets on the Axe-Efx to the Peterson Sweetened Tuning offsets first and see if that helps.
For those that aren't aware of what I'm talking about reset your tuning offsets as follows.
- E1 = -2.3 cent
- B2 = 0
- G3 = 0
- D4 = -0.4 Cent
- A5 = -2.1 Cent
- E6 = -2.3 Cent
I hear what you are saying. I don't have an Axe fx III but I never liked the strobe tuner on my Axe fx II. It is too jumpy and restless for me. So I always use the 'normal' tuner on the Axe fx II hardware. I never use the MFC tuner.
I would suggest tuning your guitar one time to each of the three methods and play of few things and then use your ears to tell you with which method your guitar is most in tune. Then stick to that specific method and don't look at the others.
That is the "normal" tuner on the III. There are also mini-tuners on most pages--look for two opposing green triangles.Where do you find the 'normal' tuner on the Axe FX III? I don't use FCs, and I only see one tuner (the strobe and wheel) on the Axe FX III itself - I've just been using the strobe tuner.
It will, only because there's no margin for error built in...so unless your a is exactly 440 and not 440.001 etc...it will continue to strobe, even slowly.Does anyone else notice that when the AFX screen reads 0 cents, the strobe is still spinning?
- E1 = -2.3 cent
- B2 = 0
- G3 = 0
- D4 = -0.4 Cent
- A5 = -2.1 Cent
- E6 = -2.3 Cent