What is your guitar whim right now?

Andy Eagle said:
The German one has a harder drop forged steel baseplate and vastly superior CNC milled saddles. The Korean one is a bent baseplate that is only case hardened and the saddles are a sintered die castings . They don't even sound as good. In what ways are even similar never mind your assertion of better.
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Just my own personal experience. The german OFRs I have are good, no doubt. But the finish on several of the nuts (both black and chrome) have started flaking off, and I've had several of those nuts also give me the sitar sound. The tolerances on the saddles are loose af, and I've had more than a handful of saddles crack on me (not the new CNC ones, I only have one set of those and they're holding up great, but the thread tolerances for the locking bolts are just... off). I can't speak to the hardness of the baseplate, and yeah I do prefer the milled baseplate over the bent. But A/B-ing my own personal bridges I can't tell a difference in tone, performance, or tuning stability.

"Fight me" was a bit dramatic, I admit, but for most purposes, in my opinion the 1000/1500 series is perfectly fine, and I haven't been impressed with the "german made" stamp in a while. My own Korean models have held up better than the german made ones when it comes to fit and finish.

I get that you've probably got a lot more experience than me when it comes to how many of these things you've come across, but I can't in good conscience just blindly say "german made OFRs are always better" when that hasn't been my own experience.
 
Well, again I'll say that's outrageous that I could spent $6,000 NZD on a Suhr and get a bridge made in Korea. No slight on Korean manufacturing but as Andy said the German OFR's are superior.
 
rossipedia said:
Just my own personal experience. The german OFRs I have are good, no doubt. But the finish on several of the nuts (both black and chrome) have started flaking off, and I've had several of those nuts also give me the sitar sound. The tolerances on the saddles are loose af, and I've had more than a handful of saddles crack on me (not the new CNC ones, I only have one set of those and they're holding up great, but the thread tolerances for the locking bolts are just... off). I can't speak to the hardness of the baseplate, and yeah I do prefer the milled baseplate over the bent. But A/B-ing my own personal bridges I can't tell a difference in tone, performance, or tuning stability.

"Fight me" was a bit dramatic, I admit, but for most purposes, in my opinion the 1000/1500 series is perfectly fine, and I haven't been impressed with the "german made" stamp in a while. My own Korean models have held up better than the german made ones when it comes to fit and finish.

I get that you've probably got a lot more experience than me when it comes to how many of these things you've come across, but I can't in good conscience just blindly say "german made OFRs are always better" when that hasn't been my own experience.
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I get what you mean. The Korean ones are adequate. My gripe with German floyds is the tolerances. The last one I owned had a wobbly tremolo arm, whereas the Schaller I had years before was machined perfectly.
 
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Henry said:
Question for @Andy Eagle . Hopefully not complicating the issue more.

This is from Warmoth' web site. So I assume the Original Floyd Rose on the left is German made, and the Schaller on the right of course is also German made? Recommendation between the two?

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See my above post. They both feel pretty similar, however the Schaller I owned was much better than the German OFR I had after it.
 
Well I like the SG but it isnt burning love. No sense buying a brand new guitar to list in 6 months at a decent loss. So close!
 
Budda said:
Well I like the SG but it isnt burning love. No sense buying a brand new guitar to list in 6 months at a decent loss. So close!
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I've had a couple (Epiphone) SGs sitting in cases for years. I pull one of them out every 6 months or so, apparently to remind myself why I don't really jive with SGs. Today was one of those days...and, yeah...still don't jive with SGs.

I think what I don't like is about 40% neck dive, 50% where the cutout is that sits on your leg when you're sitting, and the rest because I haven't bothered putting my favorite RS SuperPots in either of them.

As for why I have 2 guitars I don't like....one was my first guitar and the other belongs to a friend that I haven't seen in ~8 years (and it was his first electric). So, I can't bring myself to sell them.
 
marsonic said:
I've had a couple (Epiphone) SGs sitting in cases for years. I pull one of them out every 6 months or so, apparently to remind myself why I don't really jive with SGs. Today was one of those days...and, yeah...still don't jive with SGs.

I think what I don't like is about 40% neck dive, 50% where the cutout is that sits on your leg when you're sitting, and the rest because I haven't bothered putting my favorite RS SuperPots in either of them.

As for why I have 2 guitars I don't like....one was my first guitar and the other belongs to a friend that I haven't seen in ~8 years (and it was his first electric). So, I can't bring myself to sell them.
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This one is easily one of the better SG’s I have tried. The strap I tried in store grabs better than the one I tried at home haha. Pretty sure its between 6.5-7lbs compared to guitars Ive owned and currently own. Im just not waking up thinking about it, nor am I experiencing minor anxiety about bringing it back. It’s on the cusp of being a good bad decision.
 
Budda said:
This one is easily one of the better SG’s I have tried. The strap I tried in store grabs better than the one I tried at home haha. Pretty sure its between 6.5-7lbs compared to guitars Ive owned and currently own. Im just not waking up thinking about it, nor am I experiencing minor anxiety about bringing it back. It’s on the cusp of being a good bad decision.
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That almost describes how I felt about my Les Paul. I didn't buy it the first day (actually went back to the store 3 times), and I didn't wake up thinking about it. But, I did think about it randomly, wondering whether it was still there.

Usually, I know I want a guitar when I don't want to put it back on the wall out of fear that someone else is going to walk up and buy it. That didn't quite happen with this one, but it was a close thing. The relief I felt going back that 3rd time that no one else had bought it was what clinched it for me. It's my favorite guitar now. And I do occasionally wake up in the middle of the night wanting to go play.
 
State of Epicicity said:
Man, after @unix-guy epic thread about his journey through the nine rings of dead notes with Suhr, I just googled: forum suhr dead notes, and all these threads popped up with similar stories. I'd like to think that was common practice for expensive guitars, but I don't think that's the case. I point blank asked Tom Anderson himself if they check for dead notes, and he evaded the question and instead said that if I'm sitting there with a stopwatch I shouldn't buy from him. Paradoxically, I haven't read about Anderson dead note issues haha.
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I've had issues with two Suhrs. One with an unbearable and irreparable dead note, and the second was a lemon without resonance. A dull potato. The second one was signed by John at the back of the headstock.

And I was called troll and liar for saying that at TGP 😂
 
Piing said:
I've had issues with two Suhrs. One with an unbearable and irreparable dead note, and the second was a lemon without resonance. A dull potato. The second one was signed by John at the back of the headstock.

And I was called troll and liar for saying that at TGP 😂
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Dude, Aristides and Vigier, and maybe Flaxwood or Ruf. Or just one that you can play first, or an iron clad return policy...

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This is what keeps me up at night.
I’ve never played a Fly Artist.
Spruce body.
This particular one is pretty immaculate and I’m lusting over it.
But it’s so far above my pay grade!
Maybe I’ll be lucky one day and find one I can afford!!!

1664846857623.png
 
rossipedia said:
Just my own personal experience. The german OFRs I have are good, no doubt. But the finish on several of the nuts (both black and chrome) have started flaking off, and I've had several of those nuts also give me the sitar sound. The tolerances on the saddles are loose af, and I've had more than a handful of saddles crack on me (not the new CNC ones, I only have one set of those and they're holding up great, but the thread tolerances for the locking bolts are just... off). I can't speak to the hardness of the baseplate, and yeah I do prefer the milled baseplate over the bent. But A/B-ing my own personal bridges I can't tell a difference in tone, performance, or tuning stability.

"Fight me" was a bit dramatic, I admit, but for most purposes, in my opinion the 1000/1500 series is perfectly fine, and I haven't been impressed with the "german made" stamp in a while. My own Korean models have held up better than the german made ones when it comes to fit and finish.

I get that you've probably got a lot more experience than me when it comes to how many of these things you've come across, but I can't in good conscience just blindly say "german made OFRs are always better" when that hasn't been my own experience.
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I totally hear what you are saying and have experienced all of those issues .
The first clarification on my German floyd is better;
This is on the bridges as are they are if you buy a new one today. This is the new(ish) CNC saddle version German and either of the Korean ones. In this comparison there is no contest the German unit is vastly superior.
The caveats are the lock nuts do often have issues and the Korean one is as good or as bad if you like.
Older German floyds have gone on a rollercoaster from excellent to pretty bad and back to excellent.
IME the saddles on the Korean versions have more play and are softer than the better of the German ones but there have been some from the mid 90s that are just poor and as you describe. Slop in the hing, the brass insert under the block falls out and the chrome flakes off. These issues are all fixed in the CNC saddle.
The drop forged baseplate is harder and always was. The arm mech on the Korean system is just flat out garbage as are all the bolts they need replacing from new. Some guitars that fit the FRT1000 stock are replacing the bolts and mech calling it an FRT1500 (new American Soloist). this is then a solid choice and should work fine.
All this said the most reliable Floyd is also one of the cheapest and they don't break (ever IME ) and the locknuts are always perfect. This is the Gotoh 1996, feels and sounds better too.
 
Patzag said:
This is what keeps me up at night.
I’ve never played a Fly Artist.
Spruce body.
This particular one is pretty immaculate and I’m lusting over it.
But it’s so far above my pay grade!
Maybe I’ll be lucky one day and find one I can afford!!!

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So....I've only played one and was thoroughly unimpressed. But, I've always been curious....

What is it about Parkers that make people love them like they do?
 
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