The bypass switch on the II didn’t mute.I use the tuner as a mute.
Curious what you need that feature for? I bet less than 10% of Axe2 users used it. Wondering what we’re missing out on.I've searched the manual and this forum and I can't find an answer. The closest thing I could find is selecting the Bypass preset on the Axe FX III, and that is fine except it takes you away from the preset you were on. There must be something I'm missing here.
Thanks.
Curious what you need that feature for? I bet less than 10% of Axe2 users used it. Wondering what we’re missing out on.
And just confirming that Bypass didn’t mute the Axe2, right? It is dry signal only, not a mute.I used it a lot to quickly switch back and forth between the AxeFX and a software amp emulator. Workarounds on the III entail editing presets to have this capability or switching between presets, which requires saving the preset you're using, maintaining a bypass preset, and finding a way to quickly switch between them. It can be done, but it was a lot more convenient on the II.
In your presets you could build a shunt path into the preset that's selected using MIX block. Something like:
Yea. What he said.Mixer should be immediately before Out 1 block. Connect processed and shunt rows to mixer input.
Alternatively a Multiplexer block could work (again just before Out 1) with no extra shunts. Select processed row or Input 1 as needed.
I used it a lot to quickly switch back and forth between the AxeFX and a software amp emulator. Workarounds on the III entail editing presets to have this capability or switching between presets, which requires saving the preset you're using, maintaining a bypass preset, and finding a way to quickly switch between them. It can be done, but it was a lot more convenient on the II.
Curious what you need that feature for? I bet less than 10% of Axe2 users used it. Wondering what we’re missing out on.
My set up is in a simple home/studio environment.
My set up is in a simple home/studio environment. The signal from the guitar goes into a wah, then into an effects pedal, then into an Eventide Eclipse V4. From the Eclipse the AES digital out goes to the Axe FX III (formerly a II XL+) AES digital in. From the FX III, one out goes to a digital mixer that can route to the home/studio audio system that is clean and accurate, the other to a wireless system that plugs into a real guitar amp/cab. The bypass on the Axe FX allows for a quick and convenient method of getting a dry signal, but still allowing control of the output levels coming out of the Axe FX with the front panel output level knobs. Bypass switches on all of the hardware in the signal path provides for easy flexibility to select various combinations of effects.
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I'd recommend routing to the Axe-Fx first. It has better converters and your SNR will be much better. Put the Eventide stuff in a loop. Running into the Eclipse first will degrade your SNR as the converters are lower quality and not optimized for guitar signals.My set up is in a simple home/studio environment. The signal from the guitar goes into a wah, then into an effects pedal, then into an Eventide Eclipse V4. From the Eclipse the AES digital out goes to the Axe FX III (formerly a II XL+) AES digital in. From the FX III, one out goes to a digital mixer that can route to the home/studio audio system that is clean and accurate, the other to a wireless system that plugs into a real guitar amp/cab. The bypass on the Axe FX allows for a quick and convenient method of getting a dry signal, but still allowing control of the output levels coming out of the Axe FX with the front panel output level knobs. Bypass switches on all of the hardware in the signal path provides for easy flexibility to select various combinations of effects.
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