Warmoth neck with Gotoh Truss Rod Side-Adjuster won't fit on American Deluxe Strat (offset screw whole issue). Possible workarounds?

If your action gets higher under string-tension the truss-rod needs readjustment, makes no sense to shim the neck to do what the truss-rod is for. Evaluation of truss-rod adjustment is done under string-tension. Shimming is only necessary when the truss-rod is loose and the neck has a slight convex curvature under string-tension.

String up and tune to pitch, check the relief under tension with a straightedge that covers the entire range of the fretboard (or fret the high E @ first and last fret). @ about the 12th fret (+/- 2) the relief (gap of string to fret) should be adjusted to about 0-0.4mm as a starting point. Don’t adjust the truss-rod under string-tension!!

Play the guitar and check for possible fret-buzz, if no buzz, decrease relief to taste, else, increase until fret-buzz is eliminated.

Getting the action correct is a combination of truss-rod and bridge-height adjustment.
 
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I got it all adjusted 1.25mm@1st, 1.5mm@6th and not fret-buzz. It was a question of proper truss-rod adjustment. Thank you all for your support.

BTW: what a great neck! I grabbed this one (Roasted Flame Maple, fully scalloped, SS jumbo frets) because it was on stock at Warmoth, with the idea of also buying a custom body. But I have discarded the idea of the body because it may take more than 18 weeks.
 
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Solarfire said:
If your action gets higher under string-tension the truss-rod needs readjustment, makes no sense to shim the neck to do what the truss-rod is for. Evaluation of truss-rod adjustment is done under string-tension. Shimming is only necessary when the truss-rod is loose and the neck has a slight convex curvature under string-tension.

String up and tune to pitch, check the relief under tension with a straightedge that covers the entire range of the fretboard (or fret the high E @ first and last fret). @ about the 12th fret (+/- 2) the relief (gap of string to fret) should be adjusted to about 0-0.4mm as a starting point. Don’t adjust the truss-rod under string-tension!!

Play the guitar and check for possible fret-buzz, if no buzz, decrease relief to taste, else, increase until fret-buzz is eliminated.

Getting the action correct is a combination of truss-rod and bridge-height adjustment.
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One there in no problem adjusting the truss rod with string tension. This is preferable and the reason that headstock adjustment and systems that are accessible under tension have been developed.
 
First up.
Adjust the neck off the guitar to be dead straight with the heel adjustment making sure that the side adjuster is in the centre of its range.

Take out the micro adjuster grub screw altogether. Fit the neck with no shim and make sure the bridge plate of the trem is in the correct position regardless of saddle adjustment.

String it up and see where you are.

Now be sure the relief on the neck is correct BEFORE altering the action. AT TENSION.

Now with the truss rod set correct if your action is way beyond the scope of the saddle adjustment you need a shim.

High action needs increased neck angle. (conventional shim position at the back of neck pocket ).
Strings touching the last fret with the saddles set high requires reverse shimming ( shim between the front two neck screws).

Try this take pics and report back.
 
mr_fender said:
@Andy Eagle, what's your take on shimming the neck joint? I've seen anything from tape or paper, to toothpicks or guitar picks. Seems like putting a spacer under just one end of the heel would compromise the contact surface area between the neck and body. Would proper tapered shims like StewMac sells be a better route or does it really matter that much?
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IME as long as the shim is a solid material that allows the vibration to pass through you are not going to hear anything. Wood, dense card ,thick paper and metal all work well. Plastic is dependant on the type but still you will have a herd time telling it's there.
The Stew Mac shim looks nice and is great if you need to make a big correction but totally not needed for small changes.
 
But at their instructions they warn to never adjust the neck under full string tension

IMG_0513.JPG
I cannot find a proper key for nut B, and I have many!
Anyone knows the size? A Google search leads me to the Warmoth Frum, but the access to that forum from Thailand is not allowed, not even to read the contents, or using a VPN (they told me that some countries are banned "to prevent spam"... Their webmaster must be really dumb)
20220710_143831.jpg
 
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Piing said:
But at their instructions they warn to never adjust the neck under full string tension

View attachment 104706
I cannot find a proper key for nut B, and I have many!
Anyone knows the size? A Google search leads me to the Warmoth Frum, but the access to that forum from Thailand is not allowed, not even to read the contents, or using a VPN (they told me that some countries are banned "to prevent spam"... Their webmaster must be really dumb)
View attachment 104707
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I have one of these necks also. 3mm sounds right for the hex wrench.

I press on the front of the neck right at the nut to counter string tension. When I feel the wrench wants to turn easily, then I make the necessary adjustment. Once done, I release pressure on the neck and measure relief....
 
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I wouldn't want to be the reason someone breaks something on their guitar by suggesting any adjustment that does not follow the manufacturer or builder instructions. It may not make sense to me or seem to matter based upon experience, but why take the chance and suggest it's okay for others to ignore instructions?
 
JoKeR III said:
I wouldn't want to be the reason someone breaks something on their guitar by suggesting any adjustment that does not follow the manufacturer or builder instructions. It may not make sense to me or seem to matter based upon experience, but why take the chance and suggest it's okay for others to ignore instructions?
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I mentioned what I do. Pressing on the neck at the nut counteracts the strings' tension. The manufacturer is afraid the worm gear threads or the gear teeth they engage will strip if pressure from the strings is present. When string pressure is present, the wrench does not want to turn, and I would not force it to, given the manufacturer's warning. When my counter pressure at the nut relieves the tension, the wrench turns very easily, which, based on over 50 years of experience repairing mechanical stuff, tells me that turning it in that state is safe. Your mileage may vary. Do not try this at home. Not applicable in all states, or where prohibited by law. NC17.
 
Yes Allen key is 3mm and the reason they are saying don't adjust under tension is because it is not lubed. Given the design and materials it is constructed out of this is paranoid to say the least . If you must have a caveat you could adjust it at tension UNLESS it feels tight but if you have ever used one of these you would realise how ridiculous this is. the amount of torque this thing is geared to produce makes the string tension practically irrelevant.
 
JoKeR III said:
I wouldn't want to be the reason someone breaks something on their guitar by suggesting any adjustment that does not follow the manufacturer or builder instructions. It may not make sense to me or seem to matter based upon experience, but why take the chance and suggest it's okay for others to ignore instructions?
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Making almost any adjustment on a guitar has the potential to break something if you don't know what your are doing. Many adjustment but particularly to the truss rod do require experience to "feel" the torque and to see how this is interacting with the string tension. Some truss rods require a far higher torque to counter the same tension because of there design and how much is too much? is the rod doing what it is supposed to do? does it feel like others the same? if your not a tech you are not going to know these answers. The side adjuster operates on a Warmoth rod at a very comfortable torque ,well within the absolutely no chance of stripping anything unless you are totally non responsive to how it feels. This side adjuster fitted to a shallow curve single vintage rod would be a different story. Gotoh sell this adjuster for you to use with rods other than one design so I am not surprised they air on paranoid in the instructions but I have no problem recommending anyone that is familiar with truss rod adjustments on guitar to do this on a Warmoth neck at tension with no more likelihood of damaging anything beyond any truss rod adjustment.
 
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You're right. The torque of that side adjustemt must be very high, because it doesn't feel much resistance when the strings are tuned
 
Stew Mac shims work great. Start with 0.25 degree and increase by 0.25 degree to get you neck tilt issue corrected. They are NOT just for big changes. I've been using them for years.
 
madmarcus1960 said:
Stew Mac shims work great. Start with 0.25 degree and increase by 0.25 degree to get you neck tilt issue corrected. They are NOT just for big changes. I've been using them for years.
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Since I have several strats and Warmoth necks here, I have found the StewMac neck shims a very nice professional fix when needed.
All my Warmoth necks shipped with the proper allen key. I want full contact between the neck and the body. YMMV.
 
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