InsideOut
Power User
Try bracketing exposure.Front panel is really hard to photograph. We had to Photoshop the crap out of the photo to get anything even usable. There's a lot of dynamic range and the cameras can't capture it.
Try bracketing exposure.Front panel is really hard to photograph. We had to Photoshop the crap out of the photo to get anything even usable. There's a lot of dynamic range and the cameras can't capture it.
Try bracketing exposure.
Front panel is really hard to photograph. We had to Photoshop the crap out of the photo to get anything even usable. There's a lot of dynamic range and the cameras can't capture it.
If you'd like to send me one, I can get you some killer high def pics with perfect exposureI did that. There's simply too much dynamic range. If the faceplate is exposed properly the display is completely blown out. If the display is exposed properly the faceplate is black.
looks like a sandwich bag cut in half lol.
You work with what you got.
I wonder if an ipad mini screen protector cut down would work?
Probably better than a sandwich bag.
oh what was wrong you had to fix? i assumed it was the screen protector but now think it's something else.
So tonight I recorded a little clip with my AX8 using a patch that I thought sounded pretty massive. I decided to duplicate the patch on the AXE III just to see if I could hear any difference. ... just... wow... to me, it’s like the difference between streaming a song you love vs listening to an actual CD of the same song. The basic sound is still there (which sounds great), but the III gives you this added tonal depth that feels nonlinear, three dimensional, and extremely responsive. It compresses when you dig in and stays crystal clear and articulate when you play lighter. Holding out a big chord gives you this swirling harmonic movement that’s just fantastic. Simply put, it feels more alive.
I did that. There's simply too much dynamic range. If the faceplate is exposed properly the display is completely blown out. If the display is exposed properly the faceplate is black.
It looks great in person. Camera doesn't so it justice and doesn't have the dynamic range to show it off right. Either the lights show too bright, or the faceplate is too dark.Don't have mine yet but...
I'm hoping that at some stage, the brightness of the logo can be varied within firmware. On many of the photos I've seen, the bright blue is just too bright and overshadows everything around it. Just not elegant. wow it's good to have such issues.
Thanks
Pauly
I think the issue for me is I can’t get ISO 100 on the screen itself at f/5.6, 1/125 or similar. Maybe 400 or more is acceptable but I’d rather get as low as possible. I can light the metal, front panel etc for ISO 100 easily, but the screen doesn’t get ridiculously bright - again talking strictly photography, not viewing when playing.I’m a professional photographer. Put a lot of light on the front of the unit to try to lower the dynamic range difference between the display and the front panel and/or multiple exposures about 1 stop apart from each on a tripod then combined to make an HDR image is the only other option. The first being the easiest. Could try next to a window perhaps.