Tremol-no or Floyd stop

H

Harb

Member
Hi Guys,
Hope you are all well! So, I'm at a bit of a tough decision here. I thought maybe some of you guys could share some advice. I have a Charvel (MIM) with the Floyd recessed. I much prefer it being dive-only versus completely floating. I do play some 80's rock and would like to still have use of the trem, but pulling notes sharp is not necessary for me. To save some headache i'd like to "deck" it. Have any of you guys tried the Floyd trem stops or the Tremol-no system? If so, which would you suggest? Thanks!
 
I've had two Tremol-no systems setup by a pro tech that I trust.

The set screws for engaging the stops are too flimsy for me. Eventually they messed up. I had the Tremol-no's removed at the next setup.

They are tricky, in my opinion to setup to not bind, but it can be done and they work okay other than the adjustment screws mess up pretty quickly.
 
My vote would be "YES" for a Tremol-No.
My set screws have lasted for many years with no problem.
 
I have a Tremol-no on my Eric johnson strat. Works great. I was having issues playing with a piano player at church, between his perfectly digitally tuned piano and my guitar strings, you started hearing the out of tune phase, that you get. Tremol-no fixed that.
 
I wouldn't use a Tremol-No for this.

A piece of wood can work well if you have a way to cut/shape it correctly. Between bridge & front rout or in back under the springs are both potential locations. On some guitars one spot may obviously be easier to shape the block for. Glue or stick in place somehow. Double-sided tape can work fine. Nothing's going to be pulling the block away from the body. Optionally, a piece of thin fabric at the contact area can greatly reduce clunkiness when returning to 0.
 
I've tried them all, they all have some issues.

A piece of wood(pine) with a few drop of removable glue, I use silicone caulking. Works great, no issues. I forget I even have it.
 
I've been using a Tremol-No on a Peavey Wolfgang Floyd I installed myself with no issues for a couple of years now. No problem with the screws but I have never loosened them since I installed it. Been pretty rough on it too - ex. Barracuda cover
 
If you don't need to convert between floating and down only, then I would block it as mentioned by @Bakerman and @count_chocolat

Also, if you don't change between floating and down only much, the set screw issue I mentioned is a non issue :) I work mostly floating but set the bridge fixed for a few blues songs where I wanted oblique string bends in tune.

I was messing with the set screws 3-4 times a set.

Had two out of two failures. And I'm not rough with gear.
 
Hey guys, just checking in again. Thanks for all of your advice. I used some door shims and glued them to the backside where it is held in place, once it returns to zero. I've given the glue some time to dry, So far so good! I just hope over time the wood doesn't sink in from the force of the floyd.
 
That might occur if you used a soft wood. I used maple to avoid that potential issue. If you used an easily removable glue you can always redo it. Another great thing about the hot glue is you can press it tight or if you sanded a little to much, just don't press so hard until it hardens.
 
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