You can try keeping them in place with a capo on the first fret.Do you wind your strings differently while you're doing this? I wouldn't expect to be able to reuse them if they have only a short bit around the post, like I usually do.
Hmmm, interesting idea, thanks.You can try keeping them in place with a capo on the first fret.
Different things work on different guitars and vintage Fender tuners with split shaft can have the strings removed and replaced without damage. Just loosen them until you can lift off the coiled string without disturbing it and replace it the same way.
Troy Grady is the only guitar learning subscription I have (and have ever had). It's just awesome. It might not be for absolute beginners, but even if someone have just played a year or two, there is definitely stuff to learn there.I could almost say that's just mean
Troy's stuff is for advanced guitarists trying to play as fast as humanly possible, not for a novice trying to get started.
I'm afraid I don't have a better reference for beginners though.
Hmmm, interesting idea, thanks.
Seems sketchy when you take the neck off, but maybe not.
This is only if you tune down to pitch because of the worm gear . To get this out of the equation all you need to do is always drop below pitch and make the final tuning turn up. This will make even the worst tuners stable.I always intonate and tune strings in general to the attack pitch of the string, not the lingering note. I dont know where I read/heard or how I came about it but it always made sense to me since, as others have said the pitch is sharper at the attack then after and its served me well so far.
I also make sure to take my hand off the tuner after adjusting as I've noticed it will fall flat once you let the machine head go. Its not just cheapy tuners either, it does it on my Sperzel/Ratio/Gotoh tuners.
This is only if you tune down to pitch because of the worm gear . To get this out of the equation all you need to do is always drop below pitch and make the final tuning turn up. This will make even the worst tuners stable.
I've always tuned up to pitch, and notes are still sharper right after you pick than when they're sustaining. You can see it on any tuner, including the Axe. I thought this was common knowledge.This is only if you tune down to pitch because of the worm gear . To get this out of the equation all you need to do is always drop below pitch and make the final tuning turn up. This will make even the worst tuners stable.
Got it, you were replying to his second paragraph, not the first.Yes I mean never tune down because the string will pull the tuner flat until the worm gear rests on the cog inside the machine head.
How sharp your picking makes the string go is a separate issue.