Oh, and when using the Motor Drive in the Amp block it's before the output Level control so you don't have to worry about the behavior changing when you adjust the Level knob.
As far as speaker drive and motor drive, I assume speaker drive adds the distortion character of a hard pushed speaker to the mix, and motor drive adds the compression character of a hard pushed speaker to the mix. ?
Forgive me, I'm a bit of a knob with these things.So what I've done for the final release is put Motor Drive in BOTH the Amp block and the Cab block.
Brilliant. We won't have to level our presets again after applying Motor Drive.Oh, and when using the Motor Drive in the Amp block it's before the output Level control so you don't have to worry about the behavior changing when you adjust the Level knob.
There is this concept of underhung and overhung voice coils...no joke.Yes. Speaker Drive models the magnetic compression (which is actually distortion) that occurs due to the nonlinear speaker excursion vs. applied voltage...
Thanks for breaking that down for us, @FractalAudio . Who would've thought that a little laggy, level-dependent compression would make such a difference in feel?Yes. Speaker Drive models the magnetic compression (which is actually distortion) that occurs due to the nonlinear speaker excursion vs. applied voltage. Motor Drive models the change in power transfer due to heating of the voice coil. When the voice coil heats up the speaker sensitivity decreases, in some cases quite dramatically.
Best of both worlds, excellent !So what I've done for the final release is put Motor Drive in BOTH the Amp block and the Cab block. If you're strictly FRFR then you can use the Amp block. If you are using a conventional guitar cab or a hybrid configuration (convention cab for monitoring and direct to FOH) then you can use the Cab block.
Doing it in the Amp block also has the advantage that the speaker resonance information in the Amp block is used to calculate the frequency dependent heating whereas the Cab block uses a fixed set of data that is representative of a typical speaker.
Finally I've made the time constant adjustable. I did some more calculations and measurements and found that a typical guitar speaker is actually lower than what I had previously calculated because thinner wire is used than I was assuming. Regardless you can now set the thermal time constant to get whatever response rate feels best.
Great solution.So what I've done for the final release is put Motor Drive in BOTH the Amp block and the Cab block. If you're strictly FRFR then you can use the Amp block. If you are using a conventional guitar cab or a hybrid configuration (convention cab for monitoring and direct to FOH) then you can use the Cab block.
Doing it in the Amp block also has the advantage that the speaker resonance information in the Amp block is used to calculate the frequency dependent heating whereas the Cab block uses a fixed set of data that is representative of a typical speaker.
I did some more calculations and measurements and found that a typical guitar speaker is actually lower than what I had previously calculated because thinner wire is used than I was assuming. Regardless you can now set the thermal time constant to get whatever response rate feels best.
Brilliant +1
Cliff - the new optical + motor drive is a game-changer for performing with backing tracks, which also makes it much more plug/play in the studio. I've hunted the dynamics I have now for 19 years. I'm actually having a hard time accepting it's as good as it is. Thanks a million!
Yes, he means the optical compressors. Search the forum, and you'll find settings that some people have used.What do you mean by "optical"? Do you mean the new optical compressors? If so what settings do you use to get the best results? I'm playing around with it but still haven't come up with a ideal setting.
Correct...unless you like what you hear when you try it.So what I'm understanding here is the for people who are using a traditional guitar cabinet ( non frfr), should not be messing with either of these parameters in the amp block, and leaving them at 0, or whatever the default value is - correct ?
As Rex notes, you want them at zero as a starting point. Speaker drive defaults non-zero now, though; so you will want to edit that every time you reset an amp block. You may also want to try to adjust LF resonance for your physical cab while you are there.whatever the default value is - correct ?
Yes. Speaker Drive models the magnetic compression (which is actually distortion) that occurs due to the nonlinear speaker excursion vs. applied voltage. Motor Drive models the change in power transfer due to heating of the voice coil. When the voice coil heats up the speaker sensitivity decreases, in some cases quite dramatically.
I suppose so. I usually use speaker drive at around 0.5 because it makes the sound more reactive and alive to my ears, especially on the lowest notes.right, so these are actually modelling different things...but they both result in compression. should we use both at once for absolute authenticity?