Don't believe it's true. I read on the manul or on the wiki page that speaker drive at zero means it's turned off, so that would mean the default value adds no speaker breakup even if the amp is cranked. That doesn't seem the way the real amp works.The defaults especially for combo amps represent the actual amp used to create the model with the default factory IR in the factory preset. If you change the cab you need to play with the setting.
Don’t overthink, just crank that setting around until you find what you like. Or don’t and accept the truth that no two real amps are going to sound exactly alike anyway so try not to worry about it too much.
Nothing in any default Fractal preset is set to function with real live cabs.
I saw the new firmware for the Axe III, but I remember reading somewhere the default for the Fm3 was also 2, but reseting the amp block it goes to zero. I find it weird because Cliff himself says he usually uses higher values. Following his recommended values I found that it greatly improved the feel specially for clean stuff. Much much better actually. I think those parameters are important and I'd just like to know what the value should be for a Deluxe Reverb or a Plexi, just to get a good starting point.I believe Cliff said the new default for Speaker Drive is 2.0. The existing factory presets still have the old default of 0 for Speaker Drive from the previous algorithm.
That’s how I treat it.Whatever the default value might be, ultimately you've got to trust your ears. If it sounds good, it is good. It's always going to depend on which speaker you're using and how hard you are actually driving that speaker. A fully cranked 100 watt Plexi into a 4x12 loaded with 25 watt Greenbacks is going to beat the hell out of those speakers. Inversely, a fully cranked 22 watt deluxe reverb driving a 300 watt EV or JBL speaker , though still loud as hell, is barely going to make the speaker break a sweat.
If you line up 10 Deluxe Reverbs and take measurements that correlate to these parameters you're going to get 10 different readings. That's what we're all trying to tell you. The default number is the best representation of an average amp. In the genetics world we would call this the consensus value. This is the reason you're going to find again and again you'll be told by the good folks here to just tweak it to the way you like it or to the specific sound you're going for. Remember that these two parameters you're asking about are only two that affect and are affected by dozens of others. Thus you'll see people saying "I like this" or I just leave it at xxx".I think it would be beneficial to start from the closest value to the real amp.
If you line up 10 Deluxe Reverbs and take measurements that correlate to these parameters you're going to get 10 different readings. That's what we're all trying to tell you. The default number is the best representation of an average amp. In the genetics world we would call this the consensus value. This is the reason you're going to find again and again you'll be told by the good folks here to just tweak it to the way you like it or to the specific sound you're going for. Remember that these two parameters you're asking about are only two that affect and are affected by dozens of others. Thus you'll see people saying "I like this" or I just leave it at xxx".
The only way to find that is to go through as many cab IR's as you can stand and move those dials.
The shortest version of all of this is There Is No Single Answer To Your Question.
Or the answer has been given (it's in the default of the factory preset) and you're resisting that because it's too simplistic. Sometimes it is just that easy.
The speaker drive is the speaker breakup when the amp gets loud. Correct? I don't think there's a single Deluxe Reverb out there that will have zero speaker breakup at max volume. How could zero be the consensus value?
You don't need to crank it to feel the speaker breakup, it was only an example.Yes. However, how many are playing a Deluxe a max volume? I'd suggest dialing in with your ear, not sure there is a 100% "accurate" setting here as you can crank it up but keep the amp clean and it sounds like a speaker starting to struggle which wouldn't happen with a clean Deluxe and it's stock speaker.
You don't need to crank it to feel the speaker breakup, it was only an example.
You're not sure there's a 100% accurate setting, I'm not saying there's one either.
Like @sprint said, I wish the parameter would work automatically for a given speaker type. If not automatically, maybe a comprehensive list of settings for common speaker, wattages, values for simulating speaker age/use maybe, etc.
"Use your ears", sure, always great advice, but when there are over a hundrer parameters on a simple amp, a lot of them overlaping, it's very hard to tell if the model (or even the modeling) is not for me or if maybe I need more time to tweak.
I don't get why it's so contentions a request for the amp model to behave as the real amp by default - or at least some good pointers from the designers on parameters that are important but can't be automated.
Well, honestly my suggestion is to ignore it entirely. Impossible for it to be automatic as while part of the amp block this is really based on the speaker, always feels like the Speaker page should be part of the Cab block than the Amp block. If it were automatic how does that work if one loads an IR of a high wattage speaker, how would the amp model know to not distort the speaker? How could it know the wattage of a speaker in a 3rd party IR?
I know...lot's of parameters but if one wants to really investigate the sound of cranked single speaker low wattage amps, that's what Speaker Drive is for IMHO. Otherwise, seems a non issue...
EDIT: Specifically to "You don't need to crank it to feel the speaker breakup, it was only an example." I can't remember who said it, it was an expert though, but they suggested a speaker operating within it's nominal range will not distort. In other words, this would indeed need to be cranked in order to distort a speaker.
It could work just like the impedance curve for different speakers. Instead of just loading the impedance curve it would also set all the other parameters. Multiple profiles are created and you load the one that's exactly like or closest to the one on the IR you're using.
I don't know how the algorithm works for the speaker drive or compression or how the expert defines distortion, but if the speaker isn't 100% efficient, which nothing really is, I think technically there's some type of distortion going on.
LOL. Seriously? You are a decorated veteran of the Input Impedance Wars and you are surprised that people want to argue down a good idea? C'mon!I don't get why it's so contentions a request for the amp model to behave as the real amp by default - or at least some good pointers from the designers on parameters that are important but can't be automated.
u mean "impedance"? - I mustv missed that one - sounds intriguing thoughInput Impendance Wars