Soundcraft is hiding a design flaw in Signature MTK22 mixer

  1. The original support guy was a dick and I probably would have ended up threatening his life.
  2. Welcome to the disgusting world of globalization and ESG UN control
  3. Be careful what other “Brands” you go for because Soundcraft who is a brand of Harmon is a brand of Samsung. Who also owns the brands AKG, JBL, Lexicon, Crown, dbx, Harman/Kardon, etc..
  4. I’m glad I’m at the end of my gear buying life because I pity what those starting out will be dealing with. Also learn the difference between “branding” and actual individually privately owned companies and buying gear that has very little or no affiliation with your home country.
  5. Am I the only one who uses power conditioners and and sequential powering for higher end gear/studio?
  6. Soundcraft was an excellent company with a great reputation. I’m bummed to learn that Harmon has been aquired by yet another cog (Samsung) in the path to producing crap and not standing behind their products.
  7. I own a couple pieces of equipment with no power switch. I power down all my gear when not using for more than 12 hours.
  8. I could go on, but the biggest lesson to learn is this is the time (might be too late) to transition production back to our home countries. Especially those reading this in the USA. If the last couple years have not taught us this lesson then we are doomed. This was the goal of a certain leader a couple years back, but there were too many afraid of the period of economic pain while the transition built up and started producing economic gains and freedom. These same people were also easily convinced by the greedy corrupt scum who are getting rich off this Global lie. Ironically we are presently experiencing (suffering) the same and probably worse pain and gaining nothing for it. In fact we are losing more and more each day. Start to think in spans of decades (or more) instead of 2, 4 to 8 years. I can guarantee our economic foes think in spans of a century. Foes??? Those who are consolidating all manufacturing under one solitary power. You will buy it and be happy even when it’s junk!
  9. Think about it and good fortune.
 
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One more thing. I wish all the success for FAS because they are not one of these companies. Although the global BS is causing them pain and slowing their growth to a degree. FAS is a perfect example of what you get when the owners and employees of the company have a absolute vested interest in their success. It makes all the difference. It’s the world I grew up in for the first 35 years of my life. The past 20+ years has been a slow decline, but rapidly gaining speed. There will always be borders. There’s the thinnest (almost invisible) of lines between utopia and dystopia.
 
GitGuy513 said:
  1. The original support guy was a dick and I probably would have ended up threatening his life.
  2. Welcome to the disgusting world of globalization and ESG UN control
  3. Be careful what other “Brands” you go for because Soundcraft who is a brand of Harmon is a brand of Samsung. Who also owns the brands AKG, JBL, Lexicon, Crown, dbx, Harman/Kardon, etc..
  4. I’m glad I’m at the end of my gear buying life because I pity what those starting out will be dealing with. Also learn the difference between “branding” and actual individually privately owned companies and buying gear that has very little or no affiliation with your home country.
  5. Am I the only one who uses power conditioners and and sequential powering for higher end gear/studio?
  6. Soundcraft was an excellent company with a great reputation. I’m bummed to learn that Harmon has been aquired by yet another cog (Samsung) in the path to producing crap and not standing behind their products.
  7. I own a couple pieces of equipment with no power switch. I power down all my gear when not using for more than 12 hours.
  8. I could go on, but the biggest lesson to learn is this is the time (might be too late) to transition production back to our home countries. Especially those reading this in the USA. If the last couple years have not taught us this lesson then we are doomed. This was the goal of a certain leader a couple years back, but there were too many afraid of the period of economic pain while the transition built up and started producing economic gains and freedom. These same people were also easily convinced by the greedy corrupt scum who are getting rich off this Global lie. Ironically we are presently experiencing (suffering) the same and probably worse pain and gaining nothing for it. In fact we are losing more and more each day. Start to think in spans of decades (or more) instead of 2, 4 to 8 years. I can guarantee our economic foes think in spans of a century. Foes??? Those who are consolidating all manufacturing under one solitary power. You will buy it and be happy even when it’s junk!
  9. Think about it and good fortune.
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Hello fellow curmudgeon! Don't forget that we got into this mess in large part because consumers flocked to cheaper goods, creating a downward spiral where companies sought cheap labor to lower prices and maintain / increase margins.

The idea of "bringing jobs back" is dead at birth. We no longer have the capacity to do so.

"Apple had 700,000 factory workers employed in China, [Steve Jobs] said, and that was because it needed 30,000 engineers on-site to support those workers. 'You can't find that many in America to hire".
 
fractalz said:
The idea of "bringing jobs back" is dead at birth. We no longer have the capacity to do so.
Click to expand...
I don't agree with this statement, only if it's not done right! There are plenty of ways to make this happen but the US has to be able to and willing to put in place the means to do so. Personally it needs to be done sooner than later even if it's to a neighboring country it would be far far better than where's it's at now by a long shot.
 
Sixstring said:
I don't agree with this statement, only if it's not done right! There are plenty of ways to make this happen but the US has to be able to and willing to put in place the means to do so. Personally it needs to be done sooner than later even if it's to a neighboring country it would be far far better than where's it's at now by a long shot.
Click to expand...
I heard Apple execs complain that they could fill a football field with engineers in China but couldn't fill a conference room with similar talent in the US. It's impossible if you can't staff the project.

Visit Hon Hai and you'll find the factories that make tiny screws, and other random specific parts for the iPhone right around the corner. We have not built similar infrastructure in the US. Instead, we outsourced it abroad. It'd take a decade, at least, to re-establish comparable infrastructure and then it would be 10-years behind. By then it'll all be done by robots. All IMHO...
 
lscottk said:
My main complaint was the way that the service tech behaved. He acted like a dick. Condescension and shaming do not make a loyal customer base. And it isn't necessary to behave that way. I just choose to take my business elsewhere.

I think that if SoundCraft chooses not to install a power switch then it is incumbent upon them to provide a clear explanation in the manual or online (both would be the best thing to do) explaining that the power supply will fail if the unit is left on 24/7. They didn't bother to provide any notice about this.

I have other gear that I leave on. I've also participated in online threads (actually there was a thread about this on the Fractal Forum) where engineers debated whether electronics fail more quickly if they are turned off/on or if left on indefinitely. Cliff Chase himself has discussed this topic with regards to the AxeFXIII and indicated that leaving it on is no big deal. So if there is a component that is going to fail and there is no switch built into the unit then just tell people this is the case. Then it's on me if I damage the unit because I don't power it off. But they didn't and don't tell anyone. At least not the last time I checked. So, lesson learned. Don't buy SoundCraft gear because there is no guarantee that the manual is forthcoming how to compensate for their poor engineering. On the other hand, it's a great company to buy from if you like being treated like a 2nd class idiot by a snooty holier-than-thou technician.
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I stayed away from Harmon UK.
They've taken over Yamaha too from Kemble who make my drum kits. (another nail in the coffin for high quality gear)
I must say my journey with the Soundcraft MTK-12 power supply repairs was rather more pleasant.
I mainly deal with Thomann, after the first return to base repair under warranty (3 weeks in all))
The fault occurred again shortly after but this time you could actually smell the resistors burning on the board.

So after the 2nd RTB, I asked if I qualified under warranty for a replacement should there be a third time.
And they said Yes after I pointed out that the goods appeared not to be of merchantable quality.
Under UK sale of goods and services Act, I was protected.,

So back it goes a 3rd time and a brand new mixer was dispatched.
That lasted less than 6 months when the lights started to flicker and a pronounced "hum" came through the speakers
and it produced enough weapon's grade heat to fry an egg on the top. if you had an egg.
I gave up on Soundcraft completely and learned to do deep dive research before any future purchases.

A Costly Lesson.
 
Tone Arranger said:
I stayed away from Harmon UK.
They've taken over Yamaha too from Kemble who make my drum kits. (another nail in the coffin for high quality gear)
I must say my journey with the Soundcraft MTK-12 power supply repairs was rather more pleasant.
I mainly deal with Thomann, after the first return to base repair under warranty (3 weeks in all))
The fault occurred again shortly after but this time you could actually smell the resistors burning on the board.

So after the 2nd RTB, I asked if I qualified under warranty for a replacement should there be a third time.
And they said Yes after I pointed out that the goods appeared not to be of merchantable quality.
Under UK sale of goods and services Act, I was protected.,

So back it goes a 3rd time and a brand new mixer was dispatched.
That lasted less than 6 months when the lights started to flicker and a pronounced "hum" came through the speakers
and it produced enough weapon's grade heat to fry an egg on the top. if you had an egg.
I gave up on Soundcraft completely and learned to do deep dive research before any future purchases.

A Costly Lesson.
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I haven't turned on my MTK22 since I got it back from repair. I keep thinking that I'll use it as a backup for my Behringer X32. But I should probably just sell it.

Your comments reinforce what I've heard otherwise - that Thomann is a first class organization. I live in the states so it doesn't work to order from them. But I would if I lived in Europe.
 
There is poor access underneath on the MTK-12 causing bad circulation and ventilation as the heat has nowhere to go.
Relying just on convection without an internal fan, is asking for trouble.
There was a fad a few years back to remove the power switches from rack mounted mixers in case of accidental switch-off.

They could just take the power supply completely out of the mixer and
mount it remotely or in line in a powerbrick to more effectively dissapate the heat..

From the early 70's onwards, Soundcraft was up there with the best in the live
audio hire market like Midas in side monitor foldback and FOH mixers all proudly made in the UK.
It was the choice of professional hire servicess like Autograph, SSE, Wembley Sound Services.
 
Tone Arranger said:
proforums . harman . com/ soundcraft/ discussion/ 125552/soundcraft-signature-22-mtk-usb-problem-please-help#latest
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I just posted the following in the thread you listed above:

"I had this problem on my MTK22 - USB attempting to connect, then dropping then attempting to connect, repeating the cycle over and over. It turns out that this issue was due to a failed power supply. The solution was to have the mixer serviced and the power supply replaced. I had my board serviced at Sound West Tacoma, which is located in Tacoma, Washington (USA). Due to supply chain issues it took months to get the required replacement part. Once they received the part the repair only took a few days.

Apparently this part failure is due to leaving the mixer on 24/7. I was shamed by someone at Soundcraft Technical support, who told me that I should be using a power strip to turn the mixer on and off. It was not a positive support experience. I have mentioned this many times on other forums - that Soundcraft expects the consumer to compensate for their poor design choice of not including a power switch on the board. I also commented how there is no mention in the manual or online that the board will fail if it is left on continuously. The fellow at Sound West told me that he has an older Soundcraft board that he has left on continuously in his studio for years with no issues due to heat buildup and failing power supply. Ironically, his board has a built in power switch.

The tech that I spoke to at Soundcraft was incredibly condescending. A very negative experience that has turned me off from purchasing Soundcraft products in the future. Not to mention that my $1000 board required a few hundred dollar repair due to poor design and documentation from the manufacturer. Too bad about this as Soundcraft used to be excellent quality. Live and learn, I guess."
 
Sigh. Thank you for this thread.

I purchased a Soundcraft Signature 12MTK a little over 4 years ago. It is m/n 5049557, and in case it helps others, the s/n is 618380TZ.

At times, I have used a power strip to turn it on and off. I have noticed that it gets pretty warm. About a year ago I started having issues with the FX TYPE indicator doing weird stuff, like I would have it set on "Studio Chorus" and then 10 minutes later either none of the FX types are highlighted, or it will suddenly be showing multiple random FXs selected simultaneously. Turning the knob would then "fix" it.

A week ago, I appear to have run into the issue described in this thread. The host computer reported that it no longer sees the USB device at all. My setup has been completely stationary, but the mixer has been powered 24x7 lately.

If you haven't already read the whole thread, if you own one of these mixers and it still works, you need to power this board down when not in use, don't let it overheat!

When the USB on my board is plugged into the host computer, I get a constant "clicking" showing up in the analog audio output of the board, and again, the computer doesn't see anything attached via the USB port. If I disconnect the USB, the clicking goes away.

If you follow the URL that the OP (lscottk) posted above, there is a gearslutz URL which talks about capacitor replacements. My background is in CS/EE, so I am probably going to attempt my own repair on this board. When I priced out local repair options in my area (northern Cali), it was looking like I'd be paying $110 for a shop to take it apart and investigate and then approximately $100/hr afterwards. I got an awesome deal on my board in 2018 for $339, so I am not about to dump a bunch of money into paying a repair to try and fix this. I would love to be able to help others who are handy with a soldering iron to be able to diagnose this and fix it on their own.

Another data point: I used a small gooseneck USB lamp in the "USB POWER" port of my board. I rarely used it, but in any case—it is probably NOT a good idea to use the onboard USB power port on this board. I am putting a piece of tape over it once I get my board working again, as I don't want anything putting more drain on the fragile USB power supply. I am also seriously considering drilling holes in the back of the case and adding some kind of small noiseless fan, and maybe even a more convenient power switch (lol).

I'll post an update on my progress as I figure this out. Cheers all.
 
Based on the other URLs that I have been reading, I decided to take a gamble and spend $5 on a 5-pack of 25v 100uF capacitors (Amazon ASIN B07YN6NX4H). It looks like others have had success by replacing these two caps.

I will post an update once I know more. For now, I grabbed my Soundcraft Notepad-8FX and just ran the XLR outs of that mixer into the broken MTK12. All of the analog functions on the MTK12 seem to still be working fine, which appears to confirm that the problem is isolated to the digital side of the board.

Since I will be taking the whole board apart, I am going to give it a good cleaning, as I have not given it the TLC it needs and I know it is being affected by dust accumulation. Does anybody have recommendations on how to clean faders/buttons/pots? I generally use a vacuum to remove as much dust as possible and/or compressed air to get it out of tight spots. Are there any residue free cleaners that are safe to use on these things? (e.g., CRC QD Electronics Cleaner?)

Many thanks.
 
@lscottk - I am not sure if you caught this in the other threads online about this subject, but apparently there are a few different revs of the PSU on these MTK mixers (I think 2015, 2016 and 2019?)

There is a "Wyred Up Recording Studio" on youtube which goes into some detail. Look for the video entitled "'A chat with my buddy Johnny' about the Soundcraft Signature 2019 replacement PSU" if you haven't checked it out.

It is kinda BS that Soundcraft/Harman/whatever would not provide new PSUs to those of us who purchased these mixers prior to 2019. My mixer was purchased in 2018, so clearly has one of the older ones.
 
ctr99 said:
Sigh. Thank you for this thread.

I purchased a Soundcraft Signature 12MTK a little over 4 years ago. It is m/n 5049557, and in case it helps others, the s/n is 618380TZ.

At times, I have used a power strip to turn it on and off. I have noticed that it gets pretty warm. About a year ago I started having issues with the FX TYPE indicator doing weird stuff, like I would have it set on "Studio Chorus" and then 10 minutes later either none of the FX types are highlighted, or it will suddenly be showing multiple random FXs selected simultaneously. Turning the knob would then "fix" it.

A week ago, I appear to have run into the issue described in this thread. The host computer reported that it no longer sees the USB device at all. My setup has been completely stationary, but the mixer has been powered 24x7 lately.

If you haven't already read the whole thread, if you own one of these mixers and it still works, you need to power this board down when not in use, don't let it overheat!

When the USB on my board is plugged into the host computer, I get a constant "clicking" showing up in the analog audio output of the board, and again, the computer doesn't see anything attached via the USB port. If I disconnect the USB, the clicking goes away.

If you follow the URL that the OP (lscottk) posted above, there is a gearslutz URL which talks about capacitor replacements. My background is in CS/EE, so I am probably going to attempt my own repair on this board. When I priced out local repair options in my area (northern Cali), it was looking like I'd be paying $110 for a shop to take it apart and investigate and then approximately $100/hr afterwards. I got an awesome deal on my board in 2018 for $339, so I am not about to dump a bunch of money into paying a repair to try and fix this. I would love to be able to help others who are handy with a soldering iron to be able to diagnose this and fix it on their own.

Another data point: I used a small gooseneck USB lamp in the "USB POWER" port of my board. I rarely used it, but in any case—it is probably NOT a good idea to use the onboard USB power port on this board. I am putting a piece of tape over it once I get my board working again, as I don't want anything putting more drain on the fragile USB power supply. I am also seriously considering drilling holes in the back of the case and adding some kind of small noiseless fan, and maybe even a more convenient power switch (lol).

I'll post an update on my progress as I figure this out. Cheers all.
Click to expand...
I'm taking an audio engineering course at The Evergreen State College. I am working on a 16 channel API Soundboard that I'm told cost $50K. All students are required to follow a strict protocol when completing a recording session. The only piece of gear that doesn't get turned off at the end of a session? The API soundboard. I asked my instructor about this and she said that the boards (there are two APIs at the facility) never get turned off. No power strip required.

So the Soundcraft Tech/KnowItAll who said that "everybody knows" you're supposed to use a power strip to turn off the board is full of shit. Of course I figured that already.

I saw the comments about replacing the caps on the MTK22. I'm not very adept with a soldering iron, but I likely would have given it a go because it took so long to get parts.

I still have mine as an emergency spare, but I never use it. I haven't used it since I got it back from repair. It took months to get the part and in the interim I found a killer deal on a used Behringer X32. A church purchased it and their sound person had too much trouble transitioning from the analog board they had previously. It was less than a year old when I bought it and in as new condition. I only paid $1200 for it so I don't have to use the Soundcraft.

I should just sell the MTK22. Not sure what it's worth though. And I'm the sort of person who practices full disclosure when I sell used gear, so I probably would just talk too much and ruin a sale.

Anyway, I had the same symptoms on my board that you describe on yours. Clicking sound when USB was plugged in and not recognized by my computer. I didn't use the onboard effects so I don't know if they had failed when USB failed. If Soundcraft wasn't just about the money they would have owned up on their mistake and made it right when the part failed. It's so silly that their tech said that the expectation was that the customer was supposed to use a power strip to correct their poor design.
 
Well well - f'in a. I think I have a working MTK12 again.

Here is a quick rundown of what happened:
  1. Disassembled the mixer. It's a lot of screws, lol.
  2. Took out the PSU, which is connected by an 9-pin ribbon cable to the main board. These are basically the power rails (ground, +5V, +/-15V, +48V). I noted that my PSU is the 2016 version (2016/06/31 date stamped).
  3. I'm pretty comfortable working around high-powered stuff, I would not recommend you do what I did next unless you are too. You can be electrocuted. There are various precautions you can take if you know what you are doing.
  4. I setup my test bench as follows:
    1. PSU mounted in a PanaVise
    2. top part of the mixer upside down right next to the PanaVise
    3. 9-pin ribbon cable reconnected
    4. headphones plugged in
    5. USB plugged into a nearby iMac
    6. mixer is setup with all of the USB returns enabled, plus FX channel cue monitor is enabled
  5. With this setup, I could carefully plug the AC power in, hear all kinds of nastiness/clicking in the headphones, and lift the top of the mixer so that I could rotate the FX TYPE knob and see what the response was -- yep, still busted.
  6. Using a multimeter, I checked the voltages coming off of the PSU power rails with the 9-pin ribbon cable disconnected. All seemed well, all of the correct voltages appeared on the meter. So that was good, but since it was not driving any load, I figured I should check with the 9-pin ribbon cable connected.
  7. With the ribbon cable connected, I was still reading the correct voltages on the bottom of the 9-pin header. But when I started reading voltages on the daughterboards of the top panel, I was able to see some 0V -> 5V -> 0V -> 5V -> 0V etc transitions.
  8. Unplugged AC power until I was ready to test more.
  9. Unlike most videos or posts I have seen, there were no obviously damaged components (e.g., buldging capacitors, burned resistors, etc). The 2016 PSU has a C111 capacitor that is rated at 100uF 25V. There is a silkscreen marking for C113 but no component, and there is a C112 which is also rated at 100uF 25V.
  10. As I mentioned, I had ordered 5 100uF 25V from Amazon for $5 (Amazon ASIN B07YN6NX4H).
    1. The physical form factor of the ones that I received are smaller - I am suspicious of them
    2. They are stamped "Chongx" - google searches for "chongx capacitors" are NOT encouraging
    3. Now that I know what fixed the issue, and I know these are going to get hot, I'm going to order something more reputable from digikey instead.
  11. Again, with the AC power unplugged, I start to work on removing C111. I figured what the hell, I might as well start there. Testing that capacitor in-circuit was not very conclusive.
  12. Desoldering components is kind of a pain in the ass - the PanaVise is great for holding the PSU board while I wedge something under the cap and carefully unsolder it. I tried not to heat it too much because I wanted to test it out of circuit.
  13. Once it was out of the circuit, the old C111 tested at like 45uF. The old C111 is branded "Fujicon RK" rated up to 105 degrees C.
  14. It's really helped to have a Solder Sucker at this point - heat the solder pad from the bottom, position the sucker on the top and it gives you a nice clean hole to easy put the new capacitor in.
  15. I installed the 100uF 25V capacitor from Amazon then reapplied AC power to test and voila:
    1. no clicking in the headphones
    2. FX TYPE knob works 100% normal again
    3. mixer immediately shows up on the iMac Sound preferences screen
At this point, I'm not even reassembling the mixer yet. My plan is to get a more reputable capacitor brand and replace it again. I don't want to have to assemble/disassemble/reassemble again in however long it takes this one to fail. I need to do some serious cleaning/dust removal from the top panel anyways, so that is what I'm going to work on while I wait for the new caps to arrive.

I am considering going with digikey part number RUA101M1EBK-1016S manufactured by Surge. When I searched for all 100uF 25V radial eletrolytic capacitors, this was the only one with a temperature rating that went up to 130 degrees C. I don't have the right equipment to test/measure these properly, I figure it will just be better to go with something more reputable.


TL;DR I have the 2016 PSU and I only had to replace C111, now it works again. The Amazon capacitors I ordered are suspiciously small so I am going to order RUA101M1EBK-1016S from digikey.
 
Here are some images. C113 appears to be a surface mount (SMT) component, whereas C111 and C112 are the radial 100uF 25V electrolytic capacitors. The red/black wires on the bottom of the main board are where I was seeing the 5V -> 0V -> 5V transitions. There is also a picture showing the size of the original Fujicon cap versus the ones I received from Amazon.

PXL_20221208_233740028.jpgPXL_20221208_233748092-s2.jpgPXL_20221208_233648074.jpgPXL_20221208_233820045 (1).jpg
 
Did you ever use www.mouser.com to source parts. Sometimes Digikey can be a pain. Mouser tends to be higher price, but they have a bunch of Panasonic, Vishay, Cornell Dubilier Caps. Panasonic are usually quality. I didn’t search down to all the specs, but they have a decent selection of 100uf. As long as the Voltage rating is at least the rated you can go higher. However as voltage rating increases size does too, but I wouldn’t limit your search to just 25V. You should be able to find a Cap at a higher V rating to fit. The better the cap the smaller the footprint for better specs. Usually.
 
@ctr99 - Thanks for sharing this information and all of the pictures. I'm glad that you were able to repair yours without the hassle of ordering the board. At least during the worst of the Covid pandemic, those daughterboards were hard to come by. Nice that you were able to repair yourself.

Best,
Scott
 
The new caps finally arrived. @GitGuy513 yes, I have ordered parts from mouser.com as well, I think the last time was for a repair on the amp board for one of my Samson Rubicon monitors. Mouser is great! I just hadn't thought of them. Agreed on the voltage rating, and yeah I would expect Panasonic are made in Japan, which is usually a good characteristic in terms of quality :)

Here are the 3 caps, side-by-side. Leftmost is the original Fujicon that I removed from the PSU. Middle is the Amazon ChongX/ChangX one (which technically worked but I have no idea for how long). Far-right is the Surge RUA101M1EBK-1016S (still mfg'd in China) which is rated up to 130 degrees C.

PXL_20221219_200141927.jpg


Here are a few images of the "final" repair before I reassembled the board.

Be careful with the 9-pin ribbon, it really needs to be pulled straight up, but at the same time, you don't really want to pull on the wires because you might do even more damage. Ideally you would have a tool (similar to an IC grabber) that grabbed it by the plastic on both sides and allowed you to pull it straight up...I was using my fingers/fingernails, lol. I must've gotten lazy because I ended up cracking off one of the plastic sides and bending the first pin.

I intentionally left some space underneath the new cap... mainly because it was so big, mounting it flush was not even really an option. If it does get hot, it is probably better that some air can circulate around it anyways.

PXL_20221219_205738339.jpg

The view from the top shows how little clearance there is to the adjacent components (diode and inductor):

PXL_20221219_205755199.jpg


Having a cheap solder sucker / desoldering pump (mine was like < $10) really helps. Once you have the old component pulled, you can put the tip of the solder sucker on one side of the board (plunger depressed), then heat the other side with your soldering iron while you press the plunger release button on the solder sucker. The result is a nice clean hole which makes installing the new component really easy. I hadn't cleaned out the bottom hole so you can see the difference:

PXL_20221219_202325259.jpg


If anybody needs more information, feel free to DM me or post to this thread if you still can. I have a lot of extra capacitors and would be glad to send them to anybody that needs them (provided you are willing to pay for the shipping cost :)).


Another random note: When I measured the new C111 in-circuit, it read about 184uF. Out-of-circuit, it measured 96uF.

I ended up ordering some DeoxIT F5, DeoxIT D5 and DeoxIT F100L to clean all of the faceplate pots / faders / jacks, as my mixer has been exposed to a bunch of dust over the few years that I've had it, there was much scratchiness. It's amazing how freely the knobs and faders move, was well worth the effort.
 
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