Scalloped neck refret , is it possible?

I'm thinking of scalloping some necks, any advice for a first timer?

Going to start with a cheap Squier neck to practice...
It takes and age to do by hand, think 12 hours bench time.
1. Use half round and round files to start .
2.Leave a gap next to the fret of at least 1mm.
3.Don't go deeper that 1.5mm you just don't need too. If you have 6100 size frets then you have doubled the clearance from the fingerboard.
4.Mask the fret with line painting tape to help avoid scrapes.
5.Make various radius sanding sticks by glueing wet and dry in 200~400 grit range on pieces of dowel. If you want to end up without cross grain scratching you need to go all the way to 1500 grit.
6.There is always a danger that you will file out a fret marker especially if it is real shell as those are usually thinner. With plastic ones you may be lucky at 1.5mm depth.
7.Good luck, take your time and remember you can always take more but you can't put it back.
These are the main things I wish I could have said to myself in 82 when I did my (then main) 72 strat.
 
Looking at the pictures answering questions I think it could use a dremol polish. I did it all in one day so I get a bit impatient to get it finished when it is my guitar. I will do it in a couple of weeks when it is settled down and I'm sure it doesn't need any tweaks. Do I go full Malmsteen and make a brass nut? At the moment it has a temporary that is the original with a rosewood veneer shim, works and you can't see it but I know it's a bit crap.
 
Again a very informative topic.
The frets look really clean.
Top notch job.
Any suggestion for tools for beginners for basic fret jobs -no refretting but things like crowning, leveling, deaing with frets sticking out,...?
 
I like to use a safe edged small triangle file for recrowning frets
E7358EDE-C21D-4C6F-AD98-1F67E826A430_800x.png
I make levelling tools out of the body of old cast iron woodworking planes. You would need two ideally, one longer the better and the other about 5" . You take the blade and mech out and affix self adhesive abrasive paper to the sole. These are very good and perfectly level.
I would use the small one to deal with fret sprout. Be liberal with masking off areas to protect with LOW tack masking tape at least two layers.
 
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Fret ends I round off with something like this;
60J0205-hiroshima-yasuri-fret-end-dressing-file-f-0310.jpg
These are old school mainly because when I started you couldn't buy special tools so I made some and modified others.
The freting tools I have linked are good for any size not like modern one that only do one size each. Also learning how to actually shape the fret yourself will help in the long run.
 
These are old school mainly because when I started you couldn't buy special tools so I made some and modified others.
Kinda reminds me of my Irish twin, the late Chris Larkin.
He didn't have a lot of tools and made lots himself.
 
Do you use diamond files ? I find old school ones to last a lot longer and not clogg up quite as badly.
We use both diamond and old-school files, leaning more toward diamond. They’re more aggressive, and with a plastic carrier to insert them into, they’re easier to control, especially for making Cloud reproductions. They have brass nuts, which load up a traditional file in a hurry.

Music Nomad recently came out with a set of diamond files that are performing well for us so far, and are way less expensive than others on the market.
 
I make levelling tools out of the body of old cast iron woodworking planes.
Well, I won't be able to do this since I've got absolutely no idea were to get this.
So, the only option is buying new.
Are there any tools in the StewMac (or any other) catalogue you would recommend?
What about the Z-file for crowning?
 
Well, I won't be able to do this since I've got absolutely no idea were to get this.
So, the only option is buying new.
Are there any tools in the StewMac (or any other) catalogue you would recommend?
We use the 16" version of these:

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too.../tools-for-sanding/fret-fingerboard-levelers/


What about the Z-file for crowning?
The advantage of the Z-file is that it's pretty forgiving. You're not as likely to go too far compared to other diamond crowning files (which are my crowning tools of choice when I can use them). The disadvantage is that they can be slow, especially when the land starts to narrow.

If you really want to teach your hands what crowning is all about, there's no substitute for a 3-corner file, but it'll take some practice to get it down.
 
Well, I won't be able to do this since I've got absolutely no idea were to get this.
So, the only option is buying new.
Are there any tools in the StewMac (or any other) catalogue you would recommend?
What about the Z-file for crowning?
It is extremely easy to find S/H old woodwork planes (eBay, Facebook market ,pawn shops) they are always true durable and cheap, especially ones with pieces missing and that is what you want . This is simply better than anything that you can get at StewMac. As for crowning files I absolutely don't recommend any to start out with . They are about saving time and I've seen some real problems caused by inexperienced use. Get a triangle safe edge file watch some tutorials and practice. Only buy specialist tools when you have the experience to decide yourself it it is going to work for you just by looking at it. I know this might not seem helpful but I assure you it's a better way to go.
 
It is extremely easy to find S/H old woodwork planes (eBay, Facebook market ,pawn shops) they are always true durable and cheap, especially ones with pieces missing and that is what you want . This is simply better than anything that you can get at StewMac. As for crowning files I absolutely don't recommend any to start out with . They are about saving time and I've seen some real problems caused by inexperienced use. Get a triangle safe edge file watch some tutorials and practice. Only buy specialist tools when you have the experience to decide yourself it it is going to work for you just by looking at it. I know this might not seem helpful but I assure you it's a better way to go.

While looking at woodwork planes, I have found a nicelly scalloped chair. Blackmore style (only partially scalloped) :)
https://paulsellers.com/2015/12/27492/
DSC_0050.jpg
 
Don't buy a Z file because if you don't know which one to use when your going to do some serious damage. Crowning with the triangle will teach you that and then when you have learned which one is the right one when on a particular job you are going to say $300 fuck that I can do it just as well with this $30 triangle. If you have 20 guitars to do by tomorrow the Z will save you time but it's not better.
 
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