Scalloped neck refret , is it possible?

Andy Eagle

Fractal Fanatic
The answer to this question is it depends. I know that is not very useful but I will show an example; my Ritchie Blackmore Strat.
Here is a shot of the vintage nickel frets that I hate.
IMG_1830.jpg
I dressed them only a few weeks ago and they already show flattening on the tops from bending. The strings drag on them too and they feel like crap.
The plan would be to go with the same size that Yngwie uses but in stainless. I am in luck as recently Jescar started making 58118 pretty much identical to Dunlop 6000 in size .
 
The thing that matters for the refret is can you get the frets out cleanly? Chip out is always a problem and on a scallop it can be far worse particularly on rosewood. Fortunately the scallops are not deep and have a little flat surface either side of the vintage fret that is going to help with the strength of the wood around the slot and allow me to use a much bigger wire.
Here goes with a soldering iron to heat the fret and break the super glue if any has been used:
IMG_1831.jpg
I'll take that but it's going to get a lot harder as I go up.
IMG_1832.jpg
Pretty clean and only a tiny bit if chip out to fix.
 
Introducing JAWS;
IMG_1833.jpg
A hand held fret press that I find much better than a regular press because it can lock in place with pressure so you can glue a fret down and hold it firmly seated while the glue dries.
IMG_1834.jpg
You do need to radius the fret wire precisely and have the correct radius insert for JAWS.
Also I left out that you need to run a fret saw through the slots and make sure they are the right size for the wire you are using. I glue the ends down with super glue to ensure the fret ends stay in place and the whole this stays properly seated.
 
All going cleanly;
IMG_1835.jpg
I could leave them uncut on the ends and not dress them to get the feel of an Eppiphone.
Working the Jescar steel wire is very hard on your tools, particularly the cutters, in fact most are useless . I modify high quality ones and they work (and last) for better than others I could name.
 
I like to cut the ends at a very steep angle to keep the playing surface as wide as possible. This is important on a vintage style strat with a full width vintage bridge .
IMG_1837.jpg
As you can see the little extra flat either side of the fret is now taking the new 6000 size nicely .
 
Last couple of shots to show the rest;
IMG_1838.jpg
The Blackmore style offset scallop.
IMG_1839.jpg
So can you refret a scallop ? yes but I don't want to do it again any time soon and fortunately this will probably never even need a fret dress never mind another refret.
 
Awesome work!

A luthier made a Blackmore scallop on a Mexican Deluxe that I had. I preferred it over the Yngwie full scallop, but the guitar was a lemon and I got rid of it.
 
Introducing JAWS;
View attachment 87502
A hand held fret press that I find much better than a regular press because it can lock in place with pressure so you can glue a fret down and hold it firmly seated while the glue dries.
View attachment 87503
You do need to radius the fret wire precisely and have the correct radius insert for JAWS.
Also I left out that you need to run a fret saw through the slots and make sure they are the right size for the wire you are using. I glue the ends down with super glue to ensure the fret ends stay in place and the whole this stays properly seated.

I do a slight over radius on my stainless frets install ...maybe don’t have to ... but works on my refrets
 
Nice work, @Andy Eagle! Shiny-smooth, flawless crown, no edges, no flash under the crown... just nicely done.

I've found that a little water can help with fret removal. Just a drop on each side, running my finger along each side to work it in. I've experimented on a couple of necks, trying all four ways: cold and dry, heat, water, and heat with water together. The heat/water combo consistently produced the least chip-out.

Can you divulge which cutter you modified? The Stew-Mac ones get snaggle-toothed in a hurry when they're chewing on stainless steel (though they're very good about replacing them when that happens).
 
I'm thinking of scalloping some necks, any advice for a first timer?

Going to start with a cheap Squier neck to practice...
 
Awesome as usual @Andy Eagle....great content. Could you link to a stainless fretwire for an Ibanez wizard prestige?
I would go withe Jescar 57110 which is basically 6100 size and available in stainless,evo and nickel .
These guys are good and they will radius is for you and cut it ready to go.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111475879349?hash=item19f47aedb5:g:IVEAAOSwd4tUKxRg
 
I do a slight over radius on my stainless frets install ...maybe don’t have to ... but works on my refrets
I do that on nickel but stainless particularly in big sizes can be quite springy so I like it to match exactly and I find it helps when seating.
 
Nice work, @Andy Eagle! Shiny-smooth, flawless crown, no edges, no flash under the crown... just nicely done.

I've found that a little water can help with fret removal. Just a drop on each side, running my finger along each side to work it in. I've experimented on a couple of necks, trying all four ways: cold and dry, heat, water, and heat with water together. The heat/water combo consistently produced the least chip-out.

Can you divulge which cutter you modified? The Stew-Mac ones get snaggle-toothed in a hurry when they're chewing on stainless steel (though they're very good about replacing them when that happens).
I use a medium sized side cut Knippex brand that I flush ground about 20 years ago it has a nick or two now but it still cuts cleanly. I should regrind it but for now it seems to work well.
 
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