Sanding neck on Fool guitar

Chibson is an illegal counterfeit Gibson copy. This guitar was made in Korea by Epiphone, a subdivision of Gibson.

Go troll somebody else's thread.
Yes Chibson is illegal but Epiphone in 2004 had no factory and the parts used are of the same quality . I'm not trolling I am pointing out that the guitar is a piece of art first and foremost and not playing it is the best option .
 
Just sand the neck and enjoy playing the guitar. Like other people have said, start with a super high grit. You may find that you can get the neck smooth without losing the artwork.
 
I have close to 100 Charvels some valuable, some not so. At my place they are all players. Some pay extra to have a $5,000+ new Gibson or Fender beet up to look used, A guitar is a tool, that can be a collectors item. Only you can decide, but I would sand it to bare wood in a flash If I thought I would be more abt to play it. After sanding It will still look the same hanging on a string swing.
 
I like the paint job. I’d gladly hang it on a wall and call it art. Got 15 player guitars and none with a fancy paint job.
 
Well, this is obviously a Collector piece of sorts. If it was me? I`d go to a reputable Paint Guy and ask what clear coat would be safe to apply to the back of the neck..... 1st off. If you can get a compatible clear coat on there without hurting the paintwork.... get the Guy to apply a few good thick build up coats. Let those cure. THEN.... and only then would I start to use the wet sand paper. You`d be amazed at how fast wet sanding can take the leveling down. Once leveled, your paint Guy can use the mini polisher on it to bring up the shine again.
This way you might be able to at least save the artwork, and still come out with a smooth neck. Otherwise if you really don`t care bout the artwork, just start sanding.

If you are not cool with doing this yourself, I`d get the Paint Guy to do it. Good luck Mr. Phelps. ;p
 
If you sand it I vote asymmetrical radius...I did that on an indonesian Ibanez neck cuz they just suck compared to the MIJ necks...it turned out freaking great
 
Well, this is obviously a Collector piece of sorts. If it was me? I`d go to a reputable Paint Guy and ask what clear coat would be safe to apply to the back of the neck..... 1st off. If you can get a compatible clear coat on there without hurting the paintwork.... get the Guy to apply a few good thick build up coats. Let those cure. THEN.... and only then would I start to use the wet sand paper. You`d be amazed at how fast wet sanding can take the leveling down. Once leveled, your paint Guy can use the mini polisher on it to bring up the shine again.
This way you might be able to at least save the artwork, and still come out with a smooth neck. Otherwise if you really don`t care bout the artwork, just start sanding.

If you are not cool with doing this yourself, I`d get the Paint Guy to do it. Good luck Mr. Phelps. ;p
The paint guy is going to need to know what type of paint is on there now... My son does paint work. That would be his first question.
 
Ok, this is from my Paint Guy, I prepped for him for over 15 years in a Custom Paint Shop. he`s a cool knowledgable cat. And he`s does my Nitro for my guitars now and then.

" you`ll prolly need to use a 2 part catalyzed Clear.... automotive stuff. You need to bridge carefully between the oil based on the surface and the thicker clear coats. You do this by applying/spraying 3 VERY light mist coats onto the surface. You go light mist coats 1st because of the thinners in the Clear. Too heavy and the Clear coat thinners will re-activate the oil based surface of the artwork and it`ll be mush. So a light coat 1st misted on. Wait a bit to allow it to set up/flash off. Let sit for a bit. Add 1 more light mist coat and wait till it sets up. Then 1 last light mist coat of Clear. Light mist coats allows the solvents to flash off waaaay faster than heavy coats obviously.

When these coats feel to the touch fairly dry, and your surface artwork looks intact still, you should be able to add some heavier coats. The early 3 misted on Clear coats will be a safety bridge barrier that protects the artwork from the later heavier coats thinners/solvents as they flash off. Get me? If all goes well, you should be able to build up some clear coat layers, that once cured/dry.... will allow you a good leveling base for a smooth finish, and the artwork will stay intact. "

I hope this may be of some help.
 
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Ok, this is from my Paint Guy, I prepped for him for over 15 years in a Custom Paint Shop. he`s a cool knowledgable cat. And he`s does my Nitro for my guitars now and then.

" you`ll prolly need to use a 2 part catalyzed Clear.... automotive stuff. You need to bridge carefully between the oil based on the surface and the thicker clear coats. You do this by applying/spraying 3 VERY light mist coats onto the surface. You go light mist coats 1st because of the thinners in the Clear. Too heavy and the Clear coat thinners will re-activate the oil based surface of the artwork and it`ll be mush. So a light coat 1st misted on. Wait a bit to allow it to set up/flash off. Let sit for a bit. Add 1 more light mist coat and wait till it sets up. Then 1 last light mist coat of Clear. Light mist coats allows the solvents to flash off waaaay faster than heavy coats obviously.

When these coats feel to the touch fairly dry, and your surface artwork looks intact still, you should be able to add some heavier coats. The early 3 misted on Clear coats will be a safety bridge barrier that protects the artwork from the later heavier coats thinners/solvents as they flash off. Get me? If all goes well, you should be able to build up some clear coat layers, that once cured/dry.... will allow you a good leveling base for a smooth finish, and the artwork will stay intact. "

I hope this may be of some help.

Thanks for the info. If I did anything to it, it would be sanding the neck down to bare wood, then sealing it.

For now, I've hung it back up on the wall. I'd just buy another SG and call it done, but not a big fan of SGs (prefer LPs).
 
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