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Report: Lexicon MPX R1 Controller w/t Axe-Fx

miketheman

Experienced
T-Stag said:
Hi all!

I'm new here, and I need a little advice as I noticed that some of you are gonna replace the switches on the MPX R1. Which one of these is the right switch type? I can get these very easily...

http://www.thomann.de/fi/thomann_fussschalter.htm
http://www.thomann.de/fi/thomann_fusstaster.htm

Thanks for the help!

Erkka

@Erkka: the second one (fusstaster) seems to be correct one. You need unlatched (momentary) ones, since the tactile switches on the Lexicon R1 PCB are momentary. There are four legs on the tactile switches which are soldered onto the PCB, but you basically just need to connect two of the solderpoints at the PCB connected to your switches. Therefore, your thomann switches should work. Unfortunately, you need to check/decide yourself which solderpoints that will be. I suggest that you order just one or maybe a few to check if it will work, and also that they don´t require to much space (height).

For myself, I ordered momentary switches (WSW-SPDT-MPB, I believe) from weber (https://taweber.powweb.com/store/sword.htm). But since I´m moving my R1 PCB into a new chassi, I don´t have to worry about the height inside my chassi.

@bluemaple727: very interesting feature you mentioned indeed about getting the FX mode LED´s synced to Axe (or anything)! Makes me wonder if I should re-think my choice of not having the LED included on the top-panel in my new chassi. I had the intention of having these switches (when in FX mode) just controlling my echoplex pro plus. And having a separate sideboard controlling all IA´s.

/mike
 

bluemaple727

New Member
The Omron switches above are really the best bet. Pretty cheap too. I've seen a cheaper 160g switch by C&K recommended somewhere, but beware, the life of these is only rated for 200,000 cycles, vs 3,000,000 for the Omrons. I would think they might be a little louder because of the added force, but I'm not sure about that.

I think this board gets a lot of unnecessary flack because of the switches. Lexicon obviously put a lot of effort into the rest, it's well worth it to fix their one mistake.
 

jnapo

New Member
iaresee said:
If you're in the US or Canada these Omron B3W-4005 switches from Mouser are a drop-in replacement for the switches in the R1: http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omro ... h4fg%3d%3d
Ian, have you actually purchased these switches and replaced them in your controller. The reason I ask is that I have the same controller that needs. To be repaired for the problem with the switches and I can not believe how in expensiave. the repair is going to be if these are direct replacements. For the price I will replace all the switches at once and not have to worry any more. Thanks for the help
 

iaresee

Administrator
Moderator
jnapo said:
iaresee said:
If you're in the US or Canada these Omron B3W-4005 switches from Mouser are a drop-in replacement for the switches in the R1: http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omro ... h4fg%3d%3d
Ian, have you actually purchased these switches and replaced them in your controller. The reason I ask is that I have the same controller that needs. To be repaired for the problem with the switches and I can not believe how in expensiave. the repair is going to be if these are direct replacements. For the price I will replace all the switches at once and not have to worry any more. Thanks for the help
I never did use those switches. But they are a drop-in replacement for the ones in the R1. You can check with Lexicon on that if you like.

What's expensive though? Shipping? The switches are $0.551/switch if you only buy 1. That's pretty cheap IMO.
 

jnapo

New Member
I decided to update the thread with my experience in replacing the switches in the R1.

Sourced switches from Lexicon. Note new switches have positioning features on bottom of switch the prohibit complete insertion and would not allow proper mechanical tolerances when device reassembled. Removal of feature is easy using a file.

Process of replacing switches took approximately 5 hours.

Care is required when removing old switches. They do not come out easily and you have to be sure that all solder is off old switch. Good tip, resolder the connections on each switch prior to using solder sucker to remove solder so you can remove switch. The resoldering adds solder flux to the old solder which helps it flow better for removal.

I found that I had to place nylon spacers between the circuit board and the standoffs in order to not have one of the new switches constantly engaged. It would appear that the old switches had a higher pressure requirement to engage. I found this out through careful observation and actually listening to the switches when I reassembled the device and it was not working correctly. I noticed that one of the switches was not clicking like the others and this was the one that was not working correctly. I also observed that I could hear a switch clicking when I applied pressure to the back of the circuit board when I was disassembling the unit. The amount of space required to get unit working correctly was 0.031 inches. I chose nylon so it was not conductive.

If you are going to pursue this project give yourself time. Removal of the old switches is the hardest part of the process and you just have to be gentle doing it. I also recommend that you do the project in stages. Replace 6 of the switches and then test the circuit board back in the enclosure. This will make trouble shooting easier if there is a problem.

Was the project worth while. I think so, the MPX R1 is now working fine and I am pleased. Note I do not use the MPX R1 with an AXE FX, I use it with the Lexicon unit it was designed to be used with.

I would like to thank everyone that provided information here. It helped. I hope my information will help you.
 

rwarren

New Member
There *IS* a way to keep the FX Mode LED's in sync with your presets. Page 6-1 of the MPX R1 manual offers alternate "Program Load" options. With a feature called "Setups" you can send up to 8 program change messages and 16 controller on/off (127/0) messages at a time. The Setups will take the place of your normal single program changes.

The best part is if you send a CC that corresponds to a button in FX Mode, the R1 will update it's LED status to match!

Hope this helps

Can anyone elaborate on this? I do not know very much about MIDI but have a Lexicon R1 and Axe-FX II.
 

damienmcgauley

Inspired
Bump! Again I would love to know more about this. Is the CC sent from the Axe Fx?

I've got my R1 changing presets and switching effects on/off on my Axe Fx but I'd love to know how to get the Axe Fx to control the LEDS on the G2..

Anyone got this working?
 

miketheman

Experienced
Bump! Again I would love to know more about this. Is the CC sent from the Axe Fx?

I've got my R1 changing presets and switching effects on/off on my Axe Fx but I'd love to know how to get the Axe Fx to control the LEDS on the G2..

Anyone got this working?

The suggestion from Bluemaple727 were, as far as I understood it (a bit simplified):

By utilizing the Setups the R1 would both send the CC# to the AxeII at every PC# and update the LEDs (if the CC#s transmitted where the same numbers as the IA footswitches in FX-mode). Which means a lot of (CC#) programming for each PC# in the R1. This was before anyone knew about Scenes, so I´m not sure about how well Setups (and the LEDs) would work with that. Unfortunately not possible to get any bi-directional communication similar to the MFC with the R1...
 

damienmcgauley

Inspired
Thanks for the reply Miketheman.

it's a pity that the MFC is so ugly and expensive!

I think that Lexicon got the balance of simplicity, features and cost exactly right with the MPX-R1.

I wish Fractal would make a £350 controller with the same footprint (maybe with a pedal at each end and a larger screen).
 

iaresee

Administrator
Moderator
Thanks for the reply Miketheman.

it's a pity that the MFC is so ugly and expensive!

I think that Lexicon got the balance of simplicity, features and cost exactly right with the MPX-R1.

I wish Fractal would make a £350 controller with the same footprint (maybe with a pedal at each end and a larger screen).

Too bad it falls apart in a stiff breeze... :roll
 

damienmcgauley

Inspired
I've read so many complaints about faulty switches in reviews about the MPX-R1. I don't know why, I must just be lucky because my R1 has been rock solid for nearly 15 years now......
 

Javid

Inspired
Updated R1 SysEx File

As promised, here is my SysEx dump for my R1:

http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/870088/AxeFx ... 202009.syx

That dump assumes your Axe-Fx ID is set to 125. It should work in MIDI merge mode: merging the data sent to it's IN port on to the OUT/REMOTE port. This lets you connect the R1, your computer and the Axe-Fx together in a loop. It assumes your did and tid settings in your R1 are set to 0. Should be able to put the R1 in edit mode, send the SysEx on the wire, and it'll absorb the changes.
 
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