Recommend a replacement tremolo for my Strat

I have noticed a good bit of difference with the feel of the 6-screw 510 and the 2-point version.
I like the 2-point very much but was unhappy with the stiffness of the 6-screw

P.S. The Vega I have is the 6-screw replacement-LOVE it!
 
So, I started w/a 2007 Deluxe Strat. I just didn't dig it until I found Callaham parts (just be sure you pick the right set as they offer Vintage, Standard or Deluxe drop in replacements). I put a new Brass Block w/Trem Arm on it and replaced the Saddles w/Vintage saddles...Also I run a floating trem setup like Carl Verheyen...it never goes out of tune once setup like this. Also, I ended up replacing the pickups w/vintage noiseless and Clapton mod circuit. The guitar plays, sounds and feels great now...
 
OK How do you alter the relative pitch drop on one string keeping the others the same without altering the action or intonation?
It is BS. You sometimes get close by coincidence then you set the up pull on the G to three semitones.
Then the stupid idea that angling the claw transfers the different tension through the block. Now add all springs are different tension and that all the strings detune at different rates and the trem bar is on one side ( which would matter if the other BS does.) The ONLY trem that can do this is the Steinberger Trans Trem and this separates the intonation and action adjustment from the amount of up pull in each string individually .
 
OK How do you alter the relative pitch drop on one string keeping the others the same without altering the action or intonation?
It is BS. You sometimes get close by coincidence then you set the up pull on the G to three semitones.
Then the stupid idea that angling the claw transfers the different tension through the block. Now add all springs are different tension and that all the strings detune at different rates and the trem bar is on one side ( which would matter if the other BS does.) The ONLY trem that can do this is the Steinberger Trans Trem and this separates the intonation and action adjustment from the amount of up pull in each string individually .
I have a Callaham bridge plus Hipshot Tremsetter with Carl Verhayen style floating set up. I set it up once over ten years ago and it still works and stays in tune perfect while minimizing bends going out of tune. Rolling string-tree and white graphite lube at all string contact points also help.
 
The Carl setup adds NOTHING but BS if you straighten the claw and tune the up pull on the G to three semitones the other strings will be in or not and the ONLY way to alter the relative pitch is different gauge/ tension of alter the intonation or action.
 
Last edited:
Haven't heard of this brand before, seems they make hardware for PRS? What do you like about their trems?
Mann was contracted by PRS to make bridges for them and the design came out of that work. AFAIK he still makes some, but not all bridges. Certainly not the stuff for the off shore built guitars. But PRS licenses the design from him to use across their line up.

The 6-screw setup has been rock solid and stable for me on the guitars I have it on. My oldest Mann-made PRS bridge just turned 24 years old the other day and aside from the chrome rubbing off around the low E string area, it's still pivoting on a fantastic edge. I like the heft of the brass block design. And the abillity to float it just a bit is great. No issues with it returning to pitch. The smooth design feels good under the palm of your hand and doesn't cause any cuts on heavy palm muting. Push-in bars with the ability to adjust the tension feel a lot nicer than screw-in bars for me. It's a simple, effective design.

@Andy Eagle's point about lining up six wood screws on a knife edge hasn't been a problem for me in practice; I've not had any issues with this on the PRS guitars I own with the six screw design.

I do agree with @Andy Eagle though: if you want a classic, Strat sound, you really need to focus on bent saddles. Deviate from that design and you start to deviate from what makes a Strat a Strat. Even PRS didn't screw with that bridge and saddle design on the Silver Sky.
 
I get it with the Mann trem the screws will lean and the knife edges wear together over time but why use 6 when 2 will self align?
The ONLY reason for 6 that I can think of are it distributes the pressure over a wider area and enables you to use a softer metal ie brass. But in the first instance you are never going to get 6 closed knife edges aligned perfectly without some binding. This is one time when you want it to wear a bit.
 
Last edited:
I get it with the Mann trem the screws will lean and the knife edges wear together over time but why use 6 when 2 will self align?
The ONLY reason for 6 that I can think of are it distributes the pressure over a wider area and enables you to use a softer metal ie brass. But in the first instance you are never going to get 6 closed knife edges aligned perfectly without some binding. This is one time when you want it to wear a bit.
Distribution of force was my immediate thought as well. I think the knife edge is steel though. Brass is only used for the central block part and saddles.

It’s a curious design for certain.

He makes variants now that will retrofit on two post guitars.
 
It's always an option to do the old mod of taking the middle 4 screws out of a 6 screw trem.
 
Is that a thing people do? I've never seen that on a PRS setup before.
Seen it on strats and never seen it on a PRS before either, but I assume it'll work all the same?
All it takes is taking off a few screws to turn your vintage trem into a modern one! :p Waiting on @Andy Eagle to give me a good debunk heh.
 
Haven't heard of this brand before, seems they make hardware for PRS? What do you like about their trems?
I've had a few core PRS' with trems and this style, it has been the most stable of any non-locking tremolo systems I've used. They are also very smooth, the only 6-screw trem I'm aware of that has notches in the screw shafts to hold the "knife" edge of the screw holes. This creates a consistent pivot point, eliminating the potential for the trem to rub against the screw.
It's always an option to do the old mod of taking the middle 4 screws out of a 6 screw trem.
My only concern would be the size of the screw and how it would hold up against the string pressure without bending over time.
 
Seen it on strats and never seen it on a PRS before either, but I assume it'll work all the same?
All it takes is taking off a few screws to turn your vintage trem into a modern one! :p Waiting on @Andy Eagle to give me a good debunk heh.
If you're talking about the original, six screw Strat trem it's fairly different from the Mann trem design. In the Fender design, the screws hold a beveled piece of metal fairly tight against the body of the guitar. In the Mann design, the screws act more like the two-post design, where there's a knife edge and the screws are what the edge balances against.
 
Last edited:
that has notches in the screw shafts to hold the "knife" edge of the screw holes
I didn't realize the screws were notched! That explains balancing the trem across the six screws. It's not balanced on the threads (which would be harder to get precise across the six screws).
 
I didn't realize the screws were notched! That explains balancing the trem across the six screws. It's not balanced on the threads (which would be harder to get precise across the six screws).
Yeah, it offers an explanation as to why their trems are more stable than other 6-screw trems. I've thought about buying a set of the screws ($30 for set of six ) and trying them with a MIM strat trem I have lying around to see how much, if any, the stability improves. I'll need to wait until I have a guitar to put them in though, stuff has a tendency to disappear in the "I'll get to it later" parts black hole in my music room.
 
Levinson Blade had a regular Gotoh six screw mounted on six knife edge screws on a model for a while. It worked pretty well.
You probably would get quit a bit of post lean if you tried to set up a prs trem on two screws so I wouldn't recommend it. Also if you ever do have to set up the screw hight on a Mann style trem make sure you do it with the strings off and the trem sitting down off the notches. Tweak the hight until it looks like you have them in alignment then test the bridge against it and repeat until it seams to hit the exact centre of each. If the bridge is adjusted close to the body you won't get much leeway to see as the screw heads prevent you from removing the bridge while you do this, you are stuck just dropping it off the notches to see. Once set up you should leave well alone as the whole thing needs to wear in to work at its best. Not an issues because you still adjust everything else like a strat. PRS use steel for the top plate and brass for the block but the first (Mann made ) where one piece solid brass.
 
Back
Top Bottom