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Post Your FC-12 and FC-6 Pedalboards Here

Joe Bfstplk

Axe-Master
It's personal preference.

I personally cannot use one on the left, only the right...
I couldn't stand having them on either end of the FC12 when I finally got it, so I sold it and got two FC6es, and stuck them in the middle, where they belong. :D

Eventually, the FM9 arrived, and the one side pedalboard got bigger, and the other one sits on top of my rack now, as I've figured out how to do almost all I want via MIDI from the FM9 to the FX3.

Lately, the focus has been on getting the FM9 to do all I need by itself, so that the FX3 can stay at home if I need to travel with my gear....
 

Rickey5

New Member
This looks great! Very similar to mine (Duo 34, 1 mission, 2 EV2s). But I would like to get some of those cables. Would you mind sharing what name/brand?
Well of course!! These little dummis are what I got…I believe I payed $15.99 for the 8 pack from Hamazon. I am an absolute cable snob and junkie, especially for signal flow…but considering these don’t carry any signal, I grabbed them for their price, their rainbow properties, and because they are 100% sealed and should be pretty durable and provide excellent strain relief, even though they are completely tied down and stationary, I hate having to fix shit.

I would highly recommend modifying the Duo 34. I absolutely LOVE this board, and it works freaking PERFECT for what I needed. I would get a 3’ piece of 1”x1” angle iron and bolt it directly down the center. I used 5 bolts and it took the flex right out of the 34” long piggy. I also added a couple extra feet in the middle of the orange end caps. A Drill is a must for this board.

Since you got the Duo as well, and an FC-12 I presume….or a 6. You should also do this trick maneuver; I used a mechanical connection for my FC-12, instead of the plates that it uses. I used my precision calipers and removed one of the screws in the bottom of the FC. I busted out my badass magnifying glass and deciphered the machine screws. They are M3.5-0.6 x 8mm I believe. Well, the pitch and thread size is right, I think they were 8mm…I got 12mm replacements. So M3.5-0.6 x 12mm along with some M4 wharshers. I couldn’t easily find any 3.5mm ones, so I got those. I think there is like 7 screws on the FC-12…I got 5 to line up, and four of em are the corners. It’s stupid tight, it ain’t going anywhere, it doesn’t even move in the slightest. I took the end caps off so it would sit lower and mount better. I actually did that with all the pedals. No feet. Feet are for walking and kicking. Gone.

The last hyper trick move I did was to utilize the Mod plates. The right side got a single Neutrik locking TRS jack in the mini Mod slot for my JP6 guitar with piezo…and the left side got a trio of jacks into the first Mod slot (the one that takes three) An XLR for FAS Link II, a barrel connector for 12v DC for the awesome RGB LED lighting that shines through, and another locking TRS for guitar out to the back of my Sax Affects Threy. I am actually making the cable for the umbilical tomorrow. I got 25’ of 1” tech flex red and black in the mail today, and am just waiting for the power cable to come tomorrow. I will then thread all three through the tech flex and finish it with 1” 3:1 black shrink tubing so it looks like I bought it. I love making my own cables. I got a 90 degree XLR for the back of the FC-12 and soldered that to the Neutrik XLR connector on the left, and soldered a 3’ piece of ProCo stereo instrument cable from one side the other bit the locking TRS jacks. It’s stupid clean. Highly recommended.
06CB72A9-59B1-49D1-8CE3-A1F9EABA7C6D.jpeg3832BF77-A42D-43C1-BDCA-52949061CD65.jpeg
 

unix-guy

Legend!
Well of course!! These little dummis are what I got…I believe I payed $15.99 for the 8 pack from Hamazon. I am an absolute cable snob and junkie, especially for signal flow…but considering these don’t carry any signal, I grabbed them for their price, their rainbow properties, and because they are 100% sealed and should be pretty durable and provide excellent strain relief, even though they are completely tied down and stationary, I hate having to fix shit.

I would highly recommend modifying the Duo 34. I absolutely LOVE this board, and it works freaking PERFECT for what I needed. I would get a 3’ piece of 1”x1” angle iron and bolt it directly down the center. I used 5 bolts and it took the flex right out of the 34” long piggy. I also added a couple extra feet in the middle of the orange end caps. A Drill is a must for this board.

Since you got the Duo as well, and an FC-12 I presume….or a 6. You should also do this trick maneuver; I used a mechanical connection for my FC-12, instead of the plates that it uses. I used my precision calipers and removed one of the screws in the bottom of the FC. I busted out my badass magnifying glass and deciphered the machine screws. They are M3.5-0.6 x 8mm I believe. Well, the pitch and thread size is right, I think they were 8mm…I got 12mm replacements. So M3.5-0.6 x 12mm along with some M4 wharshers. I couldn’t easily find any 3.5mm ones, so I got those. I think there is like 7 screws on the FC-12…I got 5 to line up, and four of em are the corners. It’s stupid tight, it ain’t going anywhere, it doesn’t even move in the slightest. I took the end caps off so it would sit lower and mount better. I actually did that with all the pedals. No feet. Feet are for walking and kicking. Gone.

The last hyper trick move I did was to utilize the Mod plates. The right side got a single Neutrik locking TRS jack in the mini Mod slot for my JP6 guitar with piezo…and the left side got a trio of jacks into the first Mod slot (the one that takes three) An XLR for FAS Link II, a barrel connector for 12v DC for the awesome RGB LED lighting that shines through, and another locking TRS for guitar out to the back of my Sax Affects Threy. I am actually making the cable for the umbilical tomorrow. I got 25’ of 1” tech flex red and black in the mail today, and am just waiting for the power cable to come tomorrow. I will then thread all three through the tech flex and finish it with 1” 3:1 black shrink tubing so it looks like I bought it. I love making my own cables. I got a 90 degree XLR for the back of the FC-12 and soldered that to the Neutrik XLR connector on the left, and soldered a 3’ piece of ProCo stereo instrument cable from one side the other bit the locking TRS jacks. It’s stupid clean. Highly recommended.
View attachment 108830View attachment 108835
I use the same cables...

The official answer for the screws is M3.5-0.6x16. Those work great for attachment of FCs or FMs to Temple Audio boards.
 
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