Post Your FC-12 and FC-6 Pedalboards Here

It's personal preference.

I personally cannot use one on the left, only the right...
I couldn't stand having them on either end of the FC12 when I finally got it, so I sold it and got two FC6es, and stuck them in the middle, where they belong. :D

Eventually, the FM9 arrived, and the one side pedalboard got bigger, and the other one sits on top of my rack now, as I've figured out how to do almost all I want via MIDI from the FM9 to the FX3.

Lately, the focus has been on getting the FM9 to do all I need by itself, so that the FX3 can stay at home if I need to travel with my gear....
 
This looks great! Very similar to mine (Duo 34, 1 mission, 2 EV2s). But I would like to get some of those cables. Would you mind sharing what name/brand?
Well of course!! These little dummis are what I got…I believe I payed $15.99 for the 8 pack from Hamazon. I am an absolute cable snob and junkie, especially for signal flow…but considering these don’t carry any signal, I grabbed them for their price, their rainbow properties, and because they are 100% sealed and should be pretty durable and provide excellent strain relief, even though they are completely tied down and stationary, I hate having to fix shit.

I would highly recommend modifying the Duo 34. I absolutely LOVE this board, and it works freaking PERFECT for what I needed. I would get a 3’ piece of 1”x1” angle iron and bolt it directly down the center. I used 5 bolts and it took the flex right out of the 34” long piggy. I also added a couple extra feet in the middle of the orange end caps. A Drill is a must for this board.

Since you got the Duo as well, and an FC-12 I presume….or a 6. You should also do this trick maneuver; I used a mechanical connection for my FC-12, instead of the plates that it uses. I used my precision calipers and removed one of the screws in the bottom of the FC. I busted out my badass magnifying glass and deciphered the machine screws. They are M3.5-0.6 x 8mm I believe. Well, the pitch and thread size is right, I think they were 8mm…I got 12mm replacements. So M3.5-0.6 x 12mm along with some M4 wharshers. I couldn’t easily find any 3.5mm ones, so I got those. I think there is like 7 screws on the FC-12…I got 5 to line up, and four of em are the corners. It’s stupid tight, it ain’t going anywhere, it doesn’t even move in the slightest. I took the end caps off so it would sit lower and mount better. I actually did that with all the pedals. No feet. Feet are for walking and kicking. Gone.

The last hyper trick move I did was to utilize the Mod plates. The right side got a single Neutrik locking TRS jack in the mini Mod slot for my JP6 guitar with piezo…and the left side got a trio of jacks into the first Mod slot (the one that takes three) An XLR for FAS Link II, a barrel connector for 12v DC for the awesome RGB LED lighting that shines through, and another locking TRS for guitar out to the back of my Sax Affects Threy. I am actually making the cable for the umbilical tomorrow. I got 25’ of 1” tech flex red and black in the mail today, and am just waiting for the power cable to come tomorrow. I will then thread all three through the tech flex and finish it with 1” 3:1 black shrink tubing so it looks like I bought it. I love making my own cables. I got a 90 degree XLR for the back of the FC-12 and soldered that to the Neutrik XLR connector on the left, and soldered a 3’ piece of ProCo stereo instrument cable from one side the other bit the locking TRS jacks. It’s stupid clean. Highly recommended.
06CB72A9-59B1-49D1-8CE3-A1F9EABA7C6D.jpeg3832BF77-A42D-43C1-BDCA-52949061CD65.jpeg
 
Well of course!! These little dummis are what I got…I believe I payed $15.99 for the 8 pack from Hamazon. I am an absolute cable snob and junkie, especially for signal flow…but considering these don’t carry any signal, I grabbed them for their price, their rainbow properties, and because they are 100% sealed and should be pretty durable and provide excellent strain relief, even though they are completely tied down and stationary, I hate having to fix shit.

I would highly recommend modifying the Duo 34. I absolutely LOVE this board, and it works freaking PERFECT for what I needed. I would get a 3’ piece of 1”x1” angle iron and bolt it directly down the center. I used 5 bolts and it took the flex right out of the 34” long piggy. I also added a couple extra feet in the middle of the orange end caps. A Drill is a must for this board.

Since you got the Duo as well, and an FC-12 I presume….or a 6. You should also do this trick maneuver; I used a mechanical connection for my FC-12, instead of the plates that it uses. I used my precision calipers and removed one of the screws in the bottom of the FC. I busted out my badass magnifying glass and deciphered the machine screws. They are M3.5-0.6 x 8mm I believe. Well, the pitch and thread size is right, I think they were 8mm…I got 12mm replacements. So M3.5-0.6 x 12mm along with some M4 wharshers. I couldn’t easily find any 3.5mm ones, so I got those. I think there is like 7 screws on the FC-12…I got 5 to line up, and four of em are the corners. It’s stupid tight, it ain’t going anywhere, it doesn’t even move in the slightest. I took the end caps off so it would sit lower and mount better. I actually did that with all the pedals. No feet. Feet are for walking and kicking. Gone.

The last hyper trick move I did was to utilize the Mod plates. The right side got a single Neutrik locking TRS jack in the mini Mod slot for my JP6 guitar with piezo…and the left side got a trio of jacks into the first Mod slot (the one that takes three) An XLR for FAS Link II, a barrel connector for 12v DC for the awesome RGB LED lighting that shines through, and another locking TRS for guitar out to the back of my Sax Affects Threy. I am actually making the cable for the umbilical tomorrow. I got 25’ of 1” tech flex red and black in the mail today, and am just waiting for the power cable to come tomorrow. I will then thread all three through the tech flex and finish it with 1” 3:1 black shrink tubing so it looks like I bought it. I love making my own cables. I got a 90 degree XLR for the back of the FC-12 and soldered that to the Neutrik XLR connector on the left, and soldered a 3’ piece of ProCo stereo instrument cable from one side the other bit the locking TRS jacks. It’s stupid clean. Highly recommended.
View attachment 108830View attachment 108835
I use the same cables...

The official answer for the screws is M3.5-0.6x16. Those work great for attachment of FCs or FMs to Temple Audio boards.
 
2 x FC-6, 2 x EV-1
I screwed the EV-1s and FC6s down, and miscalculated where I was at while working upside, so I might move the FC's back so I can use the Mission TT-2 again in front of them on the board. I'd like to use the glo-risers, but I used velcro before I knew that people were using dual-lock from 3M? I was getting too much slight movement and the LED strips were constantly unplugging and breaking connection. I'm not sure how to do the switches flush with the TT-2, but I can live with this. It's really working great like this for me.
 

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I screwed the EV-1s and FC6s down, and miscalculated where I was at while working upside, so I might move the FC's back so I can use the Mission TT-2 again in front of them on the board. I'd like to use the glo-risers, but I used velcro before I knew that people were using dual-lock from 3M? I was getting too much slight movement and the LED strips were constantly unplugging and breaking connection. I'm not sure how to do the switches flush with the TT-2, but I can live with this. It's really working great like this for me.
Hi there!

Even with a LOT of movement, I can’t see how the Lights from the risers could unplug? There has to be 5mm of connector going into the sockets. Are the connectors lying flat on the board or have you tried to push them underneath through one of the holes?

Also, I just use plain Velcro on my temple board and risers - I use 3 risers on my board - and everything is firm enough and doesn’t move while playing or while transporting in a case. Dual lock is better for sure but if you have good Velcro that holds well, you should be fine.

Sukh
 
Sukh,
I did not mean to imply that there was something wrong with the risers, I apologize I should have clarified. I messed up the leds, and there was a link connector under inside one of the pedal guides. Also I did push them down under the board to link the plug, but screwed that up where it kept coming off and I taped it with electrical tape. I screwed it up rushing to get the board together, and my last board was wood with ties I used for years, lol 😀 I will eventually do it right, I just need to plan it out when I'm not exhausted, and redo it with some velcro or some dual lock. I have to take it out now, so I just screwed it in so I could go.

I have your covers on it, but the ultimate plan is to use the glo-risers also, and the pedal risers. Your products are stellar.
 
Hi there!

Even with a LOT of movement, I can’t see how the Lights from the risers could unplug? There has to be 5mm of connector going into the sockets. Are the connectors lying flat on the board or have you tried to push them underneath through one of the holes?

Also, I just use plain Velcro on my temple board and risers - I use 3 risers on my board - and everything is firm enough and doesn’t move while playing or while transporting in a case. Dual lock is better for sure but if you have good Velcro that holds well, you should be fine.

Sukh
This shows how dumb I am, but I've never used velcro or dual lock on a board. It seemed like my stuff jiggled around a llittle. I am pulling the old vecro off the risers, and am about 2/3 done. So do I make an L on the risers with the dual lock? And then 2 outside strips on the pedal risers, left and right side, per pedal riser? Is there anything else you do? If the old screws don't go back in, can I use these that I screwed in underneath? I wasn't sure if I had to get shorter screws. If anyone has any info to help, thank you. I want to do it right this time and have it be neat and tidy underneath.
 
This shows how dumb I am, but I've never used velcro or dual lock on a board. It seemed like my stuff jiggled around a llittle. I am pulling the old vecro off the risers, and am about 2/3 done. So do I make an L on the risers with the dual lock? And then 2 outside strips on the pedal risers, left and right side, per pedal riser? Is there anything else you do? If the old screws don't go back in, can I use these that I screwed in underneath? I wasn't sure if I had to get shorter screws. If anyone has any info to help, thank you. I want to do it right this time and have it be neat and tidy underneath.


Yep - velcro on the GloRiser to mount it to your board - as much as you want. I put it on top, bottom, left and right sides to keep it balanced. Then put some velcro on the top of the riser and some on the underside of your pedal and stick it on. I don't do anything else at all and it's rock solid.

For the mounting risers - same approach.

not sure what you mean about screws.

Check out the explainer vid on the ZenRigs site for more info - hopefully that'll help

 
Yep - velcro on the GloRiser to mount it to your board - as much as you want. I put it on top, bottom, left and right sides to keep it balanced. Then put some velcro on the top of the riser and some on the underside of your pedal and stick it on. I don't do anything else at all and it's rock solid.

For the mounting risers - same approach.

not sure what you mean about screws.

Check out the explainer vid on the ZenRigs site for more info - hopefully that'll help


Okay I missed that video, sorry. I used different screws to put it on the board in the interim. I'll sort it out now with the video. Sorry to bother you. I love my covers and labels too! It will look cool when I'm done, and I'll post a pic.
 
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