Post firmware update - what do you do? (best practice)

[plyall]

Folks -

I have seen a variety of different approaches to the problem of "my patches sound different after FW update X.yy". I know that a number of folks recommend resetting each patch's amp by changing its type and then changing it back. To me, in many cases this changes the character of the patch tremendously, which either Fractal or I have spent a fair amount of time tweaking. There are a lot of amp parameters to adjust, certainly not just bass/mid/treble/presence/depth.

I loaded 8.00 last night, and because I couldn't really work this out, I reloaded 7.00. In the interim, I found what may be a viable workaround - just not sure.

I saved my 7.00 presets to the EEPROM before upgrading. After the upgrade, I 'recovered' these presets. It did definitely make a change in the tonality, but I'm not sure if it did things the proper way. Is this a legitimate way to reset the amp block? Or is it really necessary to go to each patch, toggle the amp type, and then try to recreate the sound from the 7.00 patches?

In any case, I wanted to see if there was a general sentiment about this.

If it really is reset/reprogram, doesn't this take away from the time you have invested to come up with your patches?

Anyway, thanks for your insights!

Pete

 

[wtfover]

plyall,
You must of missed v8.01 is up now.
It has a switch to re-enable v7 modeling or stay with 8.01 modeling.

You will then be able to maintain your v7 tones with the new v8 features.
Also, this switch will also let you easily compare.

The new phase inverter modeling will not offer day and night differences, but it certainly allows tones to ring open with less stiffness.
V8 sounds nice.

 

[mmcm4]

Here's what I do after a firmware update:

1. System Reset (to restore everything to default)

2. Go to my most-frequently-used patches (AC-30, Matchless, Wrecker, Budda) and do the following:
--> Reset the amp by double clicking the "BYPASS" button (not the FX BYPASS one, that is for global blocks)
--> Turn the level down to around -10dB (for a starting point)
--> Crank the Master Volume to 9
--> Adjust the gain to get the breakup I want
--> Tweak the Bass/Mid/Treb/Cut knobs to make it sound full and not ice-picky or dull

3. Check to make sure external controllers (volume, whammy, etc) are working properly.

That's literally it. I rarely play around with the compression, supply sag, and bright cap in the amp block. But I usually find that I like the default settings best. When I play live, I simply go into the global menu, bypass the cabs, and I'm good to go.