Plexi Mods to get to the SL-68?

But doesn’t the SL-68 have a master volume? Where would it be placed pre or post pi?
 
I don't know the SL-68, but if it is, as the name suggests, a copy of a 68 plexi, you could increase the power amp sag to simulate the lower filtering and get the spongy response.

Not sure what the implications of the lay down transformer are, if any.
 
I don't know the SL-68, but if it is, as the name suggests, a copy of a 68 plexi, you could increase the power amp sag to simulate the lower filtering and get the spongy response.

Not sure what the implications of the lay down transformer are, if any.
Nostalgia? Marketing? The old Plexis had laydown power transformers. I highly doubt they sound any different than upright ones. Just a different mounting style. IMO upright is better because they are shielded better. The laydown ones extend into the chassis where they radiate EMI inside the chassis.
 
How does that work? Doesn’t the setup also depend on the bridge height and placement?
Yes. But bridge height doesn't affect neck relief. You take off the neck, mount it on the surrogate body, string it up, and set the relief right where you want it to be. Then the neck goes back onto the original body for the rest of the setup. That saves you several cycles of loosen the strings/remove the neck/adjust the truss rod/reattach the neck/tune up to pitch/measure the relief to see how close you got. Which is time-consuming and frustrating. :mad:
 
It's like putting Fender truss rod nuts at the neck joint. People want it to look original, even if that means copying the worst aspects of the design.
Yeah Jackson copied this crappy design in the Adrian Smith import model!
 
Is putting a little adjustment wheel at the heel like Ernie Ball so complex or expensive? Wow . . .
Nope. Although it is a redesign of both neck and body. And it's not "vintage," which means there's a large cluster of people who will hate it, just because.
 
Those cog wheels are my favorite truss rod adjustments. No trying to cram tools into ackward cavities in the headstock, or removing any kind of cover.
Yup. You get easy, high-resolution adjustments, and you never have to deal with anybody's stripped-out hex nut.
 
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