Opinions about'' FU-TONE'' products

Hyper Planet

Hyper Planet

Power User
Hi there,

I'm thinking about upgrading my tremolo bridge to some Noiseless/Heavy duty springs and then may be upgrade to a sustain block by FU-TONE

Recently I've realized that I've some tuning stability issue also it's appeared on forward diving my tremolo doesn't back to its place exactly and staying up a little bit

I'd like to have your input/opinions about of using this brand I mean mostly their springs and sustain blocks
dij you had a good experience and felt an upgrade into your Tone/Sustain and tuning stability after changing to these products?
 
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Hyper Planet said:
Hi there,

I'm thinking about upgrading my tremolo bridge to some Noiseless/Heavy duty springs and then may be upgrade to a sustain block by FU-TONE

Recently I've realized that I've some tuning stability issue also it appeared on forward diving my tremolo doesn't back to its place exactly and staying up a little bit

I'd like to have your input/opinions about of using this brand I mean mostly their springs and sustain blocks
dij you had a good experience and felt an upgrade in your Tone/Sustain and tuning stability after changing to these products?





ErYgMHk
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Unless your springs are worn out, I don't think either of these things is going to help with tuning stability.

If it isn't returning to pitch most likely it's related to setup of the bridge (the plate should be parallel to the neck) or the knife edges/posts.

If the springs are wearing out, it might contribute to your issue.
 
Hyper Planet said:
Recently I've realized that I've some tuning stability issue also it's appeared on forward diving my tremolo doesn't back to its place exactly and staying up a little bit.
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Are the strings binding in the nut slots? Do you hear a 'ping' when you tune the guitar?
 
unix-guy said:
Unless your springs are worn out, I don't think either of these things is going to help with tuning stability.

If it isn't returning to pitch most likely it's related to setup of the bridge (the plate should be parallel to the neck) or the knife edges/posts.

If the springs are wearing out, it might contribute to your issue.
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Hi

My bridge is completely paralleled with the guitar body, everything is OK the problem is when I'm doing huge forward diving with the bar it didn't back to it's place like a nice paralleled bridge, it stays up and I have to push the bar back again with my hand a little bit in order to make it like what it was before diving, I mean paralleled with the guitar body, I think springs lose their stiffness.
 
Hyper Planet said:
Hi

My bridge is completely paralleled with the guitar body, everything is OK the problem is when I'm doing huge forward diving with the bar it didn't back to it's place like a nice paralleled bridge, it stays up and I have to push the bar back again with my hand a little bit in order to make it like what it was before diving, I mean paralleled with the guitar body, I think springs lose their stiffness.
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Sounds like the springs are getting old.

You could try to increase the tension by moving the 2 outermost springs from the edges of the claw to the hooks closer to the center.
 
Can’t speak to tuning stability issues, but I have used the L block and stop bar (not sure the correct name) in a Wolfgang, and quite happy with the results. This and freeway ultra switch’s typically find their way into my guitars.
 
unix-guy said:
Sounds like the springs are getting old.

You could try to increase the tension by moving the 2 outermost springs from the edges of the claw to the hooks closer to the center.
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I believe the issue raised from the bar and the springs in particular

I tied any possible spring shape but just doesn’t work
 
unix-guy said:
That doesn't seem to answer the question. Do you have a locking nut? If so, they can't really bind in the nut.

If not, that definitely could be a factor.
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My guitar is an Ibanez RG1820x with Double edge pro bridge equipped with piezo system and of course it has locking nut system

I really haven’t any issue on that area because when strings locked from nut the connection from the tuning machine will be cut, also strings are straight correctly placed into their spaces on nut fret
 
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Project Mayhem said:
Can’t speak to tuning stability issues, but I have used the L block and stop bar (not sure the correct name) in a Wolfgang, and quite happy with the results. This and freeway ultra switch’s typically find their way into my guitars.
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That’s awesome happy to hear that
 
Hyper Planet said:
yup/No
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What I was getting at, is that if the string slots are too small, the strings will not be able to move within the slots and will bind when you use the trem. preventing it from returning to it's normal position.

You can usually tell if the slots are too narrow, when you tune the guitar. When you tune the string sharp, the string will make a ping sound when it finally frees and moves through the nut slot.
 
I have 50 year old springs and they still work fine, never heard of springs “wearing out” honestly

I also have my bridge plates floating with the back slightly higher, as well as some “decked” flat, and all of them return to pitch just fine. Nothing fancy as far as parts go either.

Just well cut and lubed nut does the trick for me. It’s the main place the string will bind and the first place you should look to solve the issue.

Spending hundreds on a new block, saddles etc and not addressing the nut is usually throwing money away and not solving the problem.


Also keep in mind that no system works perfectly. I’ve been through every locking system made, vintage and 2 point, Bigsby’s, Vibrola’s, roller bridges, you name it, they all eventually go out of tune, just the nature of the guitar really.

I’ve never seen anyone heavily use the tremolo and never retune for a whole gig. Heck, even with fixed bridges you usually have to return after a few songs.
 
Toopy14 said:
What I was getting at, is that if the string slots are too small, the strings will not be able to move within the slots and will bind when you use the trem. preventing it from returning to it's normal position.

You can usually tell if the slots are too narrow, when you tune the guitar. When you tune the string sharp, the string will make a ping sound when it finally frees and moves through the nut slot.
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This is a Floyd Rose style bridge, and most guitars with those bridges don’t have a standard nut. The OP has confirmed now that he has an Ibanez guitar with a locking not... there will be no binding there ;)
 
lqdsnddist said:
I have 50 year old springs and they still work fine, never heard of springs “wearing out” honestly

I also have my bridge plates floating with the back slightly higher, as well as some “decked” flat, and all of them return to pitch just fine. Nothing fancy as far as parts go either.

Just well cut and lubed nut does the trick for me. It’s the main place the string will bind and the first place you should look to solve the issue.

Spending hundreds on a new block, saddles etc and not addressing the nut is usually throwing money away and not solving the problem.


Also keep in mind that no system works perfectly. I’ve been through every locking system made, vintage and 2 point, Bigsby’s, Vibrola’s, roller bridges, you name it, they all eventually go out of tune, just the nature of the guitar really.

I’ve never seen anyone heavily use the tremolo and never retune for a whole gig. Heck, even with fixed bridges you usually have to return after a few songs.
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Locking nut... no binding...

I have had springs wear out. They lose a bit of tension...

I almost never have to to tune during a gig. A properly setup double locking system should stay in tune. All of my Ibanez guitars do
 
unix-guy said:
This is a Floyd Rose style bridge, and most guitars with those bridges don’t have a standard nut. The OP has confirmed now that he has an Ibanez guitar with a locking not... there will be no binding there ;)
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Yep!

I setup an Ibanez with a Floyd Rose, once. It was an interesting experience.
 
lqdsnddist said:
I have 50 year old springs and they still work fine, never heard of springs “wearing out” honestly

I also have my bridge plates floating with the back slightly higher, as well as some “decked” flat, and all of them return to pitch just fine. Nothing fancy as far as parts go either.

Just well cut and lubed nut does the trick for me. It’s the main place the string will bind and the first place you should look to solve the issue.

Spending hundreds on a new block, saddles etc and not addressing the nut is usually throwing money away and not solving the problem.


Also keep in mind that no system works perfectly. I’ve been through every locking system made, vintage and 2 point, Bigsby’s, Vibrola’s, roller bridges, you name it, they all eventually go out of tune, just the nature of the guitar really.

I’ve never seen anyone heavily use the tremolo and never retune for a whole gig. Heck, even with fixed bridges you usually have to return after a few songs.
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Just looking to buy some spring, I also mostly play on drop tuning such as A, B, C also C and D standard so the FU-TONE red springs can help a lot in that way
 
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