New Matrix GT1000FX 1 space different from older models ?

Justmc

Inspired
I bought a new GT1000fx to amplify my FM3 into a Xitone passive 1x12 . I have a 6 yr old model of the same setup that I use with my AxeFx 3 and it works flawlessly . At first I noticed the new Matrix was about 1/2 the weight of my original unit but I also noticed that with the same settings the output of the new Matrix was very low. I normally would use both of them in Parallel mode but had to put the new one in Bridged mode to simulate the sound and volume of my original in parallel mode . Big bummer since I was hoping to use the new one as a back up for my AxeFx 3 rig.

Will be reaching out to them on Monday, just was wondering if anyone has had any experience with this dilemma .. Thanks
 
New models are an aluminium chassis so that's were the weight drop comes from. Old models were steel. As to the output difference that's puzzling. I've asked Andy if there is anything different but as far as I'm aware the actual boards we use haven't changed at all so everything should be the same. The only thing I can possibly think of is a switch to a different taper volume pot or a different variance in the actual two pots (ie older ones more accurate an the new ones have a 10 or 20% variance). As I say I've asked the boss man so hopefully will get an answer. If you contact us I'm more than happy to give you Andy's number and you can have a chat as well.
 
New models are an aluminium chassis so that's were the weight drop comes from. Old models were steel. As to the output difference that's puzzling. I've asked Andy if there is anything different but as far as I'm aware the actual boards we use haven't changed at all so everything should be the same. The only thing I can possibly think of is a switch to a different taper volume pot or a different variance in the actual two pots (ie older ones more accurate an the new ones have a 10 or 20% variance). As I say I've asked the boss man so hopefully will get an answer. If you contact us I'm more than happy to give you Andy's number and you can have a chat as well.
Thanks for the explanation. I have been doing some more comparisons and your suggestion on the different volume pot taper might be the answer . Will call tomorrow to get some verification as I do want to confirm that at higher volumes I will still have the same wattage . Should I call the U.S # or the U.K. # ? My original unit is a UK version , new one is from U.S.A.
 
I've always felt my 1u GT1000Fx runs at pretty low volume in parallel mode into 2 8ohm cabs - assumed it's the taper but I can't test it as I only use the amp in home studio with no option to play at hi volume - would be interested to hear the answer you get from Matrix if you can post.

Also, fyi, the knobs on mine were not attached very well with the right one pointing a few degrees up from the other to get the same volume - I've thought about prying one off and re-attaching it but never gotten around to it + the knobs don't look like they come off easily.
 
I've always felt my 1u GT1000Fx runs at pretty low volume in parallel mode into 2 8ohm cabs - assumed it's the taper but I can't test it as I only use the amp in home studio with no option to play at hi volume - would be interested to hear the answer you get from Matrix if you can post.

Also, fyi, the knobs on mine were not attached very well with the right one pointing a few degrees up from the other to get the same volume - I've thought about prying one off and re-attaching it but never gotten around to it + the knobs don't look like they come off easily.

Most of the volume is from 12 o'clock onwards so yes the taper does play a part. The volume knobs are pretty easy to remove but harder to put back on. The volumes are "floating" on their legs on the main board. This is so if the amp does receive a drop or knock the volumes would simply push in and bend the legs naturally rather than break the main board if they were soldered direct. Putting the volume knob back on will require you to hold the volume pot (lid off) in place whilst you push it on to avoid the legs bending.
 
Most of the volume is from 12 o'clock onwards so yes the taper does play a part. The volume knobs are pretty easy to remove but harder to put back on. The volumes are "floating" on their legs on the main board. This is so if the amp does receive a drop or knock the volumes would simply push in and bend the legs naturally rather than break the main board if they were soldered direct. Putting the volume knob back on will require you to hold the volume pot (lid off) in place whilst you push it on to avoid the legs bending.
Thanks - I may give it a try but it's not that big of a deal as I'm used to the difference now
 
Back
Top Bottom