New CEBA covers 😊

Just tried a simple adjustment with my CEBA covers regards the issue of possible "metal rash" occurring from movement of the magnets...

Using a simple one-hole paper punch, I used some clear Scotch adhesive tape and made some small adhesive dots from the tape...here's the finished product...the tape didn't always produce clean round circles and it wasn't possible to center the dots well, but it's close enough for gov't work...I just attached the adhesive side of the dots to the magnets and then the guards to the board...

TcFj3HE.jpg
 
I'm waiting on a set of these covers as well. Based on the ship times people have quoted in this thread I'm expecting a ship notification this Thursday (fingers crossed).
 
I'm waiting on a set of these covers as well. Based on the ship times people have quoted in this thread I'm expecting a ship notification this Thursday (fingers crossed).
Yeah, the lead time was about 3-½ weeks from order to shipping notification. Best wishes.
 
Yea, I think it was right around 4 weeks for me. I played 1 gig without protection (FM9 condom) but was on a 4 ft or so raised stage.🤣
 
The prices are quoted on CEBA's website; about $49.95 at the time they were on sale and $10 flat rate USPS shipping.

IIRC I placed my order on 10/29 and they arrived 11/26; about a month's lead time. The disclaimer on CEBA's website is comparatively clear...they are a small family business that produces these items individually and they have a decent backlog of orders on file. From the time I ordered to the time I received shipping confirmation, about 3-¼ weeks...

If one positions the magnets and doesn't move them, there really shouldn't be any issue will any rash. My concern may be when it comes time to transport my Duo 34 and give it enough space inside the gig bag so the magnets won't move.

Based on what others have already said regards metal rash, if you have doubts, contact CEBA and ask. I'd personally not heard of this occurring myself before I ordered and I think the concern may be minimal.

EDIT: Just to be sure regards the metal rash, amazon or Staples has a package of 3M removable plastic ⅞" dots (a little larger than I might need currently, but will do OK anyway). Will try this and see if the dots might provide protection against said metal rash. IIRC, the dots are adhesive on both sides, so positioning will be important from square one. Will give you an idea of what happens once these arrive.
Thanks for the reply, just ordered mine for $55 + $10 shipping, had them on my FM3/FC6 for year and half or so didn't move them around too much but rash was visually noticeable in magnet areas, though, didn't scratch off paint or anything like that. w/that said much better than taking a hit from something that's for sure. sold my fm3 and fc6 with them on so next owner can enjoy them but kept my mushroom caps. I'm thinking I might just use a small bit of black electrical tape cut in a circle adhere it to the CEBA and see how that works out, my guess if its too thick magnets will not be as strong.
 
Thanks for the reply, just ordered mine for $55 + $10 shipping, had them on my FM3/FC6 for year and half or so didn't move them around too much but rash was visually noticeable in magnet areas, though, didn't scratch off paint or anything like that. w/that said much better than taking a hit from something that's for sure. sold my fm3 and fc6 with them on so next owner can enjoy them but kept my mushroom caps. I'm thinking I might just use a small bit of black electrical tape cut in a circle adhere it to the CEBA and see how that works out, my guess if its too thick magnets will not be as strong.
I just used simple Scotch tape, a one-hole paper punch and scissors with my FM9. The magnets hold well now. I think electrical tape might be a tad too thick for the magnets, but you'll learn as you try various things.
 
I just used simple Scotch tape, a one-hole paper punch and scissors with my FM9. The magnets hold well now. I think electrical tape might be a tad too thick for the magnets, but you'll learn as you try various things.
Great idea, going to do that too, thanks for the tip!
 
The magnets are press-fit into the holes in the covers. If you feel the cover, the magnets are often slightly raised on one side of the cover, so treat that as the top when placing them. For magnets that are flush I used my thumbnail or finger to push them upwards a tiny bit above the top surface of the cover so they don't contact the metal of the chassis, and the cover will still stick very well. Magnets don't need to actually contact the surface to work.

For additional protection or paranoia, because the magnets are press-fit, they can be pushed out completely and a very thin layer of clear silicon sealant/glue smeared on the bottom of the magnet would provide a little cushion if someone is worried about abrasion or rubbing. Leave the magnets out of the cover overnight to let the silicon cure before pressing them back into the holes, silicon side down, and attaching the cover to the chassis, otherwise the silicon will try to adhere to the chassis. Once it's cured it can be peeled off easily from the magnet if necessary. I didn't do that because the magnets are not touching the chassis so they can't rub against the finish but other people's mileage might vary.
 
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I think electrical tape might be a tad too thick for the magnets
Those are super-magnets and laugh at the thickness of electrical tape.

I'd be more concerned about the adhesive of any tape softening and leaking onto the chassis if the unit gets hot, like it would if used outside in the sun. Anyone who's seen what electrical tape does when it gets warm will know the adhesive can be a sticky mess.
 
Those are super-magnets and laugh at the thickness of electrical tape.

I'd be more concerned about the adhesive of any tape softening and leaking onto the chassis if the unit gets hot, like it would if used outside in the sun. Anyone who's seen what electrical tape does when it gets warm will know the adhesive can be a sticky mess.
From what I've observed, the magnets make contact on solid metal nowhere near vents, knobs, or ports where adhesive might leak into these.

The Scotch tape provides a very small amount of adhesive, just enough to attach to the magnet.

That was why I chose a thin Scotch tape to avoid metal rash, compared to a thicker tape which might exude adhesive when softened by possible heat.
 
Great idea, going to do that too, thanks for the tip!
You'd only need to invert the cover so the downside of the cover faces up, and place the tape pieces in the 4 corners.

Reattaching is the same as attaching without tape; invert again and position the covers, then listen for the soft "click" of the magnets that will be heard when the magnets make contact with the chassis.

If perhaps you don't hear the click, I'd suggest to use a thinner piece of tape, rather that let the adhesive be the way the covers are applied.
 
From what I've observed, the magnets make contact on solid metal nowhere near vents, knobs, or ports where adhesive might leak into these.
I didn't say adhesive would leak into vents, knobs, or ports. Adhesive attracts dust and dirt, hair, pollen, etc. If the adhesive spreads from the tape, especially electrical tape, and gets on the chassis, then those spots will be obvious and some sort of solvent would be needed to remove the spots.

"Metal rash" is a non-issue if the magnet doesn't touch the chassis. If the magnet is barely above the metal it's going to have a very strong attraction. Keep them embedded in their holes about the thickness of a piece of paper and everything should work without anything else needed. My FM3 is beside me, and I have the magnets embedded about 1/64" and I can't lift the cover without sliding something under the acrylic to pry it off, and there is no magnet to chassis contact.
 
…thick magnets will not be as strong.
I wouldn't worry about it if the distance is kept very small. The magnets are very strong; See how far away you can hold one from the metal because the closer it gets the attraction increases 4x.

How does distance affect magnetic force? explains it.

If you're worried about the magnet scratching the finish either do what I suggested above, or try making some little squares of plastic wrap, put a small dab of water on the magnet, touch the plastic to the magnet so it holds it there, then position the cover on the chassis. The water will evaporate quickly and the magnet will hold the plastic in place, and the plastic will provide a little cushion to protect the finish. But again, simply making sure the magnets are embedded in their holes a tiny bit will avoid the problem too.
 
Those are super-magnets and laugh at the thickness of electrical tape.

I'd be more concerned about the adhesive of any tape softening and leaking onto the chassis if the unit gets hot, like it would if used outside in the sun. Anyone who's seen what electrical tape does when it gets warm will know the adhesive can be a sticky mess.

I didn't say adhesive would leak into vents, knobs, or ports. Adhesive attracts dust and dirt, hair, pollen, etc. If the adhesive spreads from the tape, especially electrical tape, and gets on the chassis, then those spots will be obvious and some sort of solvent would be needed to remove the spots.

"Metal rash" is a non-issue if the magnet doesn't touch the chassis. If the magnet is barely above the metal it's going to have a very strong attraction. Keep them embedded in their holes about the thickness of a piece of paper and everything should work without anything else needed. My FM3 is beside me, and I have the magnets embedded about 1/64" and I can't lift the cover without sliding something under the acrylic to pry it off, and there is no magnet to chassis contact.
There's my selective vision and reading comprehension acting up again. You did say "onto" where my brain read "into."

Even a small one-hole punch of paper with a little water drop attached to the magnet might work...it just needs to attach to the magnet and keep magnet from scratching the metal chassis. It might even be more visually appealing if one colored the dot solid black (or whatever) and then attached it to match the chassis or skin.
 
Maybe I’m off in left field here, but you guys seem to be really concerned about creating solutions to a (possibly) non existent problem. 🤷🏻‍♂️🤣

I mean, are peoples fractal gear really getting rashed up by these little magnets? And if so, what are y’all doing to them to cause it?
 
Maybe I’m off in left field here, but you guys seem to be really concerned about creating solutions to a (possibly) non existent problem. 🤷🏻‍♂️🤣

I mean, are peoples fractal gear really getting rashed up by these little magnets? And if so, what are y’all doing to them to cause it?
It does seem trivial and a bit silly...but I just finished sliding some highlighter-black paper hole punches under each of the magnets so that the color blends with the chassis. You really can't tell it's there unless you looked closely with a magnifying glass...

What this is designed to do is to protect the chassis from being scratched if and when the CEBA covers might get jostled around in transit, or kicked off center by an aggressive foot, or even popped off chassis if you're not using footswitch toppers. I even made sure I used some Goo-Gone on the former Scotch tape to remove any sticky residue.

How I applied the dots was with a small dish of tap water, and the point of a toothpick. Took a few minutes to be sure everything was centered, but finished up and will now put the Duo 34 back where it was before.

This is what the dots look like...not exactly centered, but covering the underside of the magnet ...

uo4qNvF.jpg
 
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