Never got the love for the Divided by 13 amps. What am I missing?

austinbuddy said:
To me, it seems like the amp was really made for single coils, not humbuckers - that low end thickens it up for single coils. So the trick is to go the Amp page and Input EQ tab, and just apply a lo cut there - between 80Hz and 150Hz to taste - and that will help fix the muddy issue.
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Agree with this as well as @austinbuddy's MV comment. For this issue about the bass, the input EQ low cut parameter is infinitely variable, and very useful. If the "Cut" switch on the ideal tab doesn't do it for you, try turning it back off and just use the input EQ an adjust the frequency to taste.

I learned this, too, when building out my own ODS builds on real amps: the capacitor values that change where that frequency knee is that cuts off bass coming into the overdrive section is enormously important to get good tone and feel. The fact that we can do the same thing this easily on the AxeFX models is not something that I'm taking for granted, and (bonus!) there's no danger of electrocution!
 
austinbuddy said:
IMHO, to make that Div idea by 13 amp to work "right", you need to turn the master volume up at 7... then it becomes glorious and every bit as good as the Matchless and Morgan stuff...
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So I wanted to try this to tonight only to find that this is a non-MV amp...

Did you maybe mean Input Drive?
 
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unix-guy said:
So I wanted to try this to tonight only to find that this is a non-MV amp...

Did you maybe been Input Drive?
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Uh-oh, are you on Cygnus? Cliff may have changed the amp model from fw 15 and pitched the master.

The Divided by 13s did (used to?) have a master volume that defaulted lower than 7 (to 5?) if my memory is right. Maybe I'm "mis-remembering." I've been updating Marshall style amp and haven't gotten to the Class A ones yet...
 
austinbuddy said:
Uh-oh, are you on Cygnus? Cliff may have changed the amp model from fw 15 and pitched the master.

The Divided by 13s did (used to?) have a master volume that defaulted lower than 7 (to 5?) if my memory is right. Maybe I'm "mis-remembering." I've been updating Marshall style amp and haven't gotten to the Class A ones yet...
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Yeah... I'm on 16.01.

No big deal for me, just wanted to make sure I wasn't misunderstanding your tip.
 
austinbuddy said:
Uh-oh, are you on Cygnus? Cliff may have changed the amp model from fw 15 and pitched the master.

The Divided by 13s did (used to?) have a master volume that defaulted lower than 7 (to 5?) if my memory is right. Maybe I'm "mis-remembering." I've been updating Marshall style amp and haven't gotten to the Class A ones yet...
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The CJ11 does have a master & is a class A amp. The FTR37 does not have a master.
 
unix-guy said:
Yeah... I'm on 16.01.

No big deal for me, just wanted to make sure I wasn't misunderstanding your tip.
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I'll check it out tomorrow, but Cliff did re-do every amp and if the real Divided by 13s don't actually have a Master, then he probably got rid of it in Cygnus.
 
greiswig said:
Agree with this as well as @austinbuddy's MV comment. For this issue about the bass, the input EQ low cut parameter is infinitely variable, and very useful. If the "Cut" switch on the ideal tab doesn't do it for you, try turning it back off and just use the input EQ an adjust the frequency to taste.

I learned this, too, when building out my own ODS builds on real amps: the capacitor values that change where that frequency knee is that cuts off bass coming into the overdrive section is enormously important to get good tone and feel. The fact that we can do the same thing this easily on the AxeFX models is not something that I'm taking for granted, and (bonus!) there's no danger of electrocution!
Click to expand...
Trust me in this one:
Nothing says hello like, 1) a bolt of lightning with your bare feet on the grass just after you’ve told yourself that you’re the shit just after completing a perfect timing adjustment on an old 1966 Corvette, and/or; 2) a blast of DC when you think you’re taking almost every precaution while biasing your amp, and then “zing”!

I tried these suggestions, and now the ÷13 amp sounds damn good. I also turned it up loud, and then played softly. It sounded charmed.
 
unix-guy said:
So I wanted to try this to tonight only to find that this is a non-MV amp...

Did you maybe been Input Drive?
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Tip might have been for the CJ11 (which does have a Master Volume) and not FT37?

For my money CJ11 does sound better with higher MV (I like it on 10, and then Drive around 6.7, Bass around 1.3, Treble about 7.4)

I tend to like the 2x12 Division-13 factory cabs with a lot of models as well.
 
austinbuddy said:
I'll check it out tomorrow, but Cliff did re-do every amp and if the real Divided by 13s don't actually have a Master, then he probably got rid of it in Cygnus.
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Yeah it was a bad/incorrect post by me above. In my LiveGold in firmware 15 (pre Cygnus) I have Masters at 10 for both Divided by 13 models.

I guess what I was thinking is that the amp doesn't really do it's thing until the DRIVE is up getting around 7...
 
zedeloc said:
Would you be willing to name some amps with circuits that impressed you? I'm always interested in learning something cool and finding new amps to check out.
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Sure. Typically, I'm really into the D-style circuits. There's a lot of variations besides the more typical #183 and #102 that are cloned and modeled. My most recent amp of note was a Fuchs Lucky 7 MK2. It's their cheaper line of amps, but what's a bit unique is the D-style preamp is used with a fixed bias, Class A singled ended output, and uses an additional driver stage, which are both fairly unique. It also has a really nice, high quality Digital Plate reverb, which to me sounds better than any spring reverb, tube/SS/digital.

I also fixed up an old West Grande amp recently that sounded awesome, once repaired. It's nearly a Fender Twin, without the reverb and trem, and uses an Ultralinear output, which cleans up the power amp a bit. It sounds huge and punchy and does not want to 'fall apart' on the low end whatsoever. I know most guitar players scoff at ultralinear amps because of some of the Silverface Fenders, but many circuits that use UL sound great. Marshall Major and Sunn amps are hugely adored and use UL output. In the amps I've built that have it switchable, the UL operation cleans up some of the nasty 'fur' and 'hash' on the output clipping. To me, it doesnt 'clean up' the amp so much as it takes out the uglier harmonics and intermod distortion when the power section is clipping.

Pretty much all the circuits Ceriatone has been putting out sound good to me too. Very good execution of classic and modded circuits IMO, especially for the price point.
 
I definitely agree with everyone's comments about the low end of the FTR 37.

My settings for indie rock/edge of break up are a combo of FTR low and high...both have similar settings on the (ideal page): Drive 7ish, Bass 0, Mid 6, Treble 5, High Treble -3, Bright Switch On. I add an 80 hz low end cut in the input eq.
Running it through one of York Audio's Deluxe Reverb + his Mesa 2x12. I cut both of those at around 80hz and 12khz.
Currently using the Esoteric RCB on all of the time and I roll back my volume knob for a mix of clean/leads.

This amp is a great compliment to the Deluxe Reverb when double tracking guitars.
Have the best luck with a single coil or a single coil + humbucker on my Hot Rod 50's Reclaimed Redwood Tele.
If I'm playing it with the Heritage H-150, the volume knobs get rolled back to about 5 (and sometimes I'll roll down the input trim).

Not sure if it's like this in the AF3, but the FM3 defaults to 6V6 tubes. Switching to 6L6GC (which is what the amp normally comes with), really helps it sound (and feel) true to the real amp.
 
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