Need help installing Tremol-No for Dropped D Tuning

The pin type will work... as to why the info has changed only the the owner knows but I'm guessing there were some issues with other trem types, if you look at the charts the Floyds havent changed. Yes, a correctly set up Tremol-no will not let your trem move when the set screws are tight.

If you want to permanently block your floyd then the best way to do it is to wedge in thin pieces of hard wood between the trem block and the front and back of the trem cavity. You could use other things to accomplish the same thing but to give the best sustain this method is the way to go.

What issues are you having with the trem?
 
AnthonyZ said:
I need to permanently block the floyd rose on my 8 string. The tremol-no website currently states that pin type is recommended for floyd rose trems. There is far too much conflicting information on this thing. Can someone verify which type should actually be used? I know it's been said here, but there are way too many different compatibility sheets, each conflicting with the others. Does anyone know why the website is constantly changing information? Very stupid and confusing. Can someone also verify that a correctly setup tremol-no will allow no movement whatsoever of the trem? If not, is there a better way to render the trem motionless? I've used floyd roses for years on 7's but it's a nightmare on an 8 string, just want to be done with it so I can play more than tune again. Thanks in advance boys.

Edit: It's a schecter c8 FR. Floyd rose 1000 series, if that helps any.
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Looks like you'll be perfectly fine with the small clamp version :
Floyd Rose® Licensed tremolo systems (Jackson®, ESP®, etc.) > Small Clamp "2. Though both types of Tremol-No® may be used, the Small Clamp-type is suggested. "
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Sixstring said:
The pin type will work... as to why the info has changed only the the owner knows but I'm guessing there were some issues with other trem types, if you look at the charts the Floyds havent changed. Yes, a correctly set up Tremol-no will not let your trem move when the set screws are tight.

If you want to permanently block your floyd then the best way to do it is to wedge in thin pieces of hard wood between the trem block and the front and back of the trem cavity. You could use other things to accomplish the same thing but to give the best sustain this method is the way to go.

What issues are you having with the trem?
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Ash J. Williams said:
Looks like you'll be perfectly fine with the small clamp version :
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Thank you my friends for your replies. If you look at post number 7 in this thread, and consult the current tremol-no website, you will see that the suggestions for floyd rose trems have indeed changed several times. It always says both will work, but some say the pin type is more suggested and others say the clamp type. If I understand you boys correctly, it doesn't really matter? The blocks of wood are indeed the best method, but due to neurological problems, I have shaking and some numbness in my hands. I do not wish to be anywhere near a saw and I'm not sure how else I would get the wood to perfect size.

The problem with the trem is lack of any tuning stability. I can stretch the strings for hours every day, but it gets me nowhere. Using the trem always makes things go out of tune, especially strings 3 and 8. As I said, I am familiar with floyd roses. They are a bit frustrating certainly, but properly stretching strings has always kept me out of these troubled waters. Now I spent most of my time unscrewing the nut, restretching and retuning, rather than practicing and writing. I don't know what the word is, but it is the very opposite of inspiring me to play. I thought maybe it is the tuning I use, B D# G B D# G B D#, but I don't understand why the tuning would affect anything really. I play jazz mostly, I use the trem for flutter, like Gilmour stuff. No crazy Van Halen stuff with it, so it's not like I'm abusing it.

I love this guitar, for a stereotypical metal/djent/nonsense guitar, it's clean tone is beautiful to my ears. It is perfect for me except for this tuning problem. I just want to play carefree again boys :|.
 
reclavea said:
If you are referring to the angle of the Tremol-No claw to the trem block it is of vital importance or you can't get the unit to work right at all. The shaft is at a right angle to the claw and the angle is fixed. Once it is perfectly set up any slight turn of the claw screw either way will bind the shaft locks. No good.
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late reply to this, but i just meant (and agreed) that the claw should be flat compared to the part of the guitar body where the screws come out. it shouldn't be slanted or angled, but straight.

people have argued that they can make the trem slacken/tighten the high E string less by making the trem claw angled or something like that. but it's a floating/balanced system, so no, that doesn't work.
 
The main advantage of the tremol-no is the revertability of the operation, or the possibility of switching between the 3 modes if you will.
I think that, in your case, you could really benefit from having a pro guy install a wooden shim or so. By doing that and keeping the locking nut you'll have a perfectly tuned guitar (assuming the problem does not come from others parts of the hardware like the saddles for exemple)
 
Ash J. Williams said:
The main advantage of the tremol-no is the revertability of the operation, or the possibility of switching between the 3 modes if you will.
I think that, in your case, you could really benefit from having a pro guy install a wooden shim or so. By doing that and keeping the locking nut you'll have a perfectly tuned guitar (assuming the problem does not come from others parts of the hardware like the saddles for exemple)
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I may just have to do that, it hadn't occurred to me that I could pay someone to install the wooden blocks for me. Thanks very much man! Now, is continuing to use the locking nut really necessary? I would really like to not have to use it if I'm not using the trem. Will I have further tuning issues if I don't lock the strings down?
 
AnthonyZ said:
Now, is continuing to use the locking nut really necessary? I would really like to not have to use it if I'm not using the trem. Will I have further tuning issues if I don't lock the strings down?
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Depends on the nut. Most locking nuts aren't designed to be low-friction, because friction doesn't matter when they're locked. Try it and see whether it works.
 
If you have questions about the Tremol-No, contact the company. Kevan, the owner, has gone out of his way to help me more than once.
 
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