My construction of Gapless Presets

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EDIT #3: I've returned to using Mixers, Multiplexers, and Scene Controllers for gaplessness. I've still found gaps that interrupt what I'm playing past FW 22.00. This is a contextual thing, so it may not matter for you, depending on what you're going for in your preset.

EDIT #2: Forget all this. Just use Firmware 22.00. Channel changes in the amp and drive blocks are now perceptibly gapless.

EDIT: I have some ideas here that can help in some ways, but there is a great solution here that can save time, if you have a set plan for what amps you're going to need when you play, in what order.

I know this doesn't hold appeal to everyone, but for me it's addictive. Before I made the plunge to the Axe FX III I made gapless presets with VST plugins using automation of individual parameters; now, with an FC12 and the Axe FX III, I use Scene Controllers and Multiplexers (though Mixer Blocks would work too) for gapless Amp changes. It might not seem like a big deal to switch between tones without an audible gap, but I've found it to be the most thrilling and inspiring thing for me personally; for anyone else who's been thinking about this, I hope some of my thoughts are helpful. To me a gapless preset is like a pickup selector switch; it feels natural and awesome.

Here's the helpful thing I've just discovered to make it easier: I've found that, for the presets I make, I only ever get a gap when switching channels in an Amp Block, not in a Drive Block, IR Player Block, or Cab Block. (Edit: Drive Block Channel changes can have gaps, but it just depends, so I now use a Multiplexer for Drive switching too). So I've just realized I don't have to do anything elaborate to switch tones gaplessly in a Drive Block, IR Player Block, or Cab Block; just switching channels does that gaplessly already! The only thing you have to take care with is the amp block, and by limiting a preset to two amps, you can do it. Here's what I do:

I use two amp blocks, kept on Channel A for every scene, going into a Multiplexer Block or a Mixer Block, and by using Scene Controllers, I can get eight gapless tones easily, one for each Scene. You can go way beyond that though, if you include CSs or something similar. But eight tones is enough for me in a preset. I first create one preset that is not gapless, to use as a basis, with eight tones, with four tones from Amp 1 in Channels A-D respectively landing in Scenes 1-4. Now, for Amp 2, I have four tones in Channels A-D respectively landing in Scenes 5-8. Now, the one thing I make sure to do when turning knobs for each of the four tones in a single amp, is I make sure only to turn the knobs that allow modifiers attached to them. I.e., if I alter the Negative Feedback, I make sure it doesn't change between those four tones. Same with Input Boost Type, or anything else that does not allow modifiers. Now, I use a spreadsheet in which I enter the values for any parameter that changes between channels. It's the same calculation for everything except Input Drive, which requires an alteration in which you use a log formula (which I found with some experimentation haha). One quick way to get a list of the parameters of all the scenes in your preset is to use @AlGrenadine's FracTool to export all the parameters of your preset as a CSV. It does round your Input Trim settings to the nearest hundredth, but everything else I think is just as it's displayed on the unit itself. Here's an example of the first three columns of my spreadsheet with their formulas showing:

ABC
1Input TrimInput Drive
2Scene 1
3Scene 2
4Scene 3
5Scene 4
6Scene 5
7Scene 6
8Scene 7
9Scene 8
10
11Percentages for Ideal Scene Controller
12Scene 1=((20*log(B2))-(20*log(MIN(B$2:B$5))))/((20*log(MAX(B$2:B$5)))-(20*log(MIN(B$2:B$5))))=(C2-MIN(C$2:C$5))/(MAX(C$2:C$5)-MIN(C$2:C$5))
13Scene 2=((20*log(B3))-(20*log(MIN(B$2:B$5))))/((20*log(MAX(B$2:B$5)))-(20*log(MIN(B$2:B$5))))=(C3-MIN(C$2:C$5))/(MAX(C$2:C$5)-MIN(C$2:C$5))
14Scene 3=((20*log(B4))-(20*log(MIN(B$2:B$5))))/((20*log(MAX(B$2:B$5)))-(20*log(MIN(B$2:B$5))))=(C4-MIN(C$2:C$5))/(MAX(C$2:C$5)-MIN(C$2:C$5))
15Scene 4=((20*log(B5))-(20*log(MIN(B$2:B$5))))/((20*log(MAX(B$2:B$5)))-(20*log(MIN(B$2:B$5))))=(C5-MIN(C$2:C$5))/(MAX(C$2:C$5)-MIN(C$2:C$5))
16Number of Values=COUNTUNIQUE(B2:B5)=COUNTUNIQUE(C2:C5)
17Minimum Value=Min(B$2:B$5)=Min(C$2:C$5)
18Maximum Value=MAX(B$2:B$5)=MAX(C$2:C$5)
19Scene Controller Assignment
20
21Scene 5=((20*log(B6))-(20*log(MIN(B$6:B$9))))/((20*log(MAX(B$6:B$9)))-(20*log(MIN(B$6:B$9))))=(C6-MIN(C$6:C$9))/(MAX(C$6:C$9)-MIN(C$6:C$9))
22Scene 6=((20*log(B7))-(20*log(MIN(B$6:B$9))))/((20*log(MAX(B$6:B$9)))-(20*log(MIN(B$6:B$9))))=(C7-MIN(C$6:C$9))/(MAX(C$6:C$9)-MIN(C$6:C$9))
23Scene 7=((20*log(B8))-(20*log(MIN(B$6:B$9))))/((20*log(MAX(B$6:B$9)))-(20*log(MIN(B$6:B$9))))=(C8-MIN(C$6:C$9))/(MAX(C$6:C$9)-MIN(C$6:C$9))
24Scene 8=((20*log(B9))-(20*log(MIN(B$6:B$9))))/((20*log(MAX(B$6:B$9)))-(20*log(MIN(B$6:B$9))))=(C9-MIN(C$6:C$9))/(MAX(C$6:C$9)-MIN(C$6:C$9))
25Number of Values=COUNTUNIQUE(B6:B9)=COUNTUNIQUE(C6:C9)
26Minimum Value=Min(B$6:B$9)=Min(C$6:C$9)
27Maximum Value=MAX(B$6:B$9)=MAX(C$6:C$9)
28Scene Controller Assignment

By plugging in the values for the particular parameter for each scene, the spreadsheet then displays the minimum and maximum value the knob will travel for each amp (here Amp 1 is Scenes 1-4, and Amp 2 is Scene 5-8, but you can alter this for your setup), and the ideal settings for Scene Controllers will display for each scene for that parameter. This is great if you use only four parameters with Scene Controllers: in each modifier, set the Update Rate to Fast, with 0 ms for the Attack and Release times, set your min and max values in the modifier menu, and set your Scene Controller settings, and you're done! Gapless!

If you I have more than four Scene Controller - attached modifiers I still set the min and max values, but then I'll just adjust the other parameters, like Slope, Scale, Offset, and Start, Mid, and End, until I reach the intended value for each parameter. It's cumbersome, but I've done it, and the results are totally worth it to me.

Like I said, this isn't for everyone, but for those interested, this is the method I've found that I like. You can also do this using MIDI CC of course, which would be easier in some ways, but I love excluding all other devices and just using the FC12 with the Axe FX III. Best of luck on your tonal endeavors!
 
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I've found that, for the presets I make, I only ever get a gap when switching channels in an Amp Block, not in a Drive Block, IR Player Block, or Cab Block.

I realize now this is not true; it's contextual. I'm finding that sometimes there is a gap between channel changes on drive blocks, but sometimes there's not. It may be because of overall CPU usage of the particular preset, or maybe switching between particular types of drive models; I don't know, but it's not a big deal. But for those following this thread: I was wrong in my initial understanding of this.

Regardless, Scene Controllers and Multiplexers are still completely gapless, and absolutely my go to for preset creation!
 
Hey mate - I’ve been using an approach using a multiplexer and mixers for a long time to provide totally seamless switching between any two tones, and created a bunch of commercial presets and a template that you can simply drop your own amp, cab and effects into and make use of.

I’m not at my computer right now but will post a sensible link to it later!
 
Hey mate - I’ve been using an approach using a multiplexer and mixers for a long time to provide totally seamless switching between any two tones, and created a bunch of commercial presets and a template that you can simply drop your own amp, cab and effects into and make use of.

I’m not at my computer right now but will post a sensible link to it later!

How cool! :) Yeah, this is some of the most exciting stuff as far as I'm concerned. I generally set up eight gapless tones: I'll do two amps with a multiplexer, then I'll add four scenes of scene controllers to change the tone of each amp. Another thing I love is to have 4 drive blocks in front a multiplexer going into the two amps, who then go into the second multiplexer. This way you can get eight drastically different tones that are all gapless.

And of course you can go completely insane and add other types of modifiers too, like CSs, or MIDI CCs, and again, have drastically different tones to switch between gaplessly in a single preset. I'll definitely look at the stuff on your site Man!
 
this is cool. I recently just modified my Dee Cee 30 factory preset with scene controllers. It is so natural to foot switch between cleaner, crunch, and drive scenes along with my picking attack on chords, so many shades of awesome. Will dive into this more…
 
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That's a great way to do it. Do you often use the in between positions to mix the amps?
Yes. I use two amps in every preset. One for clean and one for dirt Or two clean or two dirty Depends on what the preset is made to accomplish. I'm the singer too and this makes it easier to switch between the two sounds (whatever they may be). Basically I'm using it as a big switch I don't have to look down to get to.
 
Yes. I use two amps in every preset. One for clean and one for dirt Or two clean or two dirty Depends on what the preset is made to accomplish. I'm the singer too and this makes it easier to switch between the two sounds (whatever they may be). Basically I'm using it as a big switch I don't have to look down to get to.

Very cool
 
Good Lord am I at the bottom of the learning curve! I'll be watching this thread, I think I'm going to need this eventually.

I formed a band with a guy I met by chance in '91 and we've been tight since, though I took a day job and haven't gigged since about '97. When I told him I was getting an FM3 he perked up big time. He's still gigging and his buddies use Fractal units. Now I've upgraded and I think if I don't go visit him and jam soon he's gonna drive 90 minutes down here to kidnap me.
 
@Dr. Faustus I'm obsessive about making my presets gapless, so if this is something that matters to you, just let me know, and I'll try to help if I can. I know an FM3 will not run two amps at once, but I'm pretty sure you do have Scene Controllers, and that's all it takes, really. 🙂 Also, running a couple of drives into a Multiplexer is a good way to switch gaplessly between drastically different tones. Best of luck, and happy tone exploration!

I know for me the gapless possibility is kind of intoxicating. It really does just feel like using your pickup selector. Not everyone cares about this, but I just completely love it!
 
the fastest way I know to switch sounds with no gap is channels + input select, where channel A pulls from the left and channel B pulls from the right, everything else either has to do some switching sequence pause or has a picosecond volume ramp to it, even multiplexer has a ramp. there is nothing as satisfying as a 1:1 electron transfer of clean-to-obscene channel switching
 
the fastest way I know to switch sounds with no gap is channels + input select, where channel A pulls from the left and channel B pulls from the right, everything else either has to do some switching sequence pause or has a picosecond volume ramp to it, even multiplexer has a ramp. there is nothing as satisfying as a 1:1 electron transfer of clean-to-obscene channel switching

Dude, could you post a preset that incorporates this method? I'm beyond freakin' intrigued here, and I feel like all of a sudden I can't follow you enough to recreate what you're describing! Thanks for sharing a different method, Man(g). That's the last thing I expected when I created this thread!
 
Sorry if I was unclear. I sold that FM3 on Reverb and took delivery of my FX3 Mk2 about a week ago, so my learning curve kinda jumped that day. 🤓

Oh that's awesome! That makes it way easier then. My favorite beginning to a gapless preset is to have two amps running into a Muliplexer. The important thing is, just keep both amps on Channel A for every single scene. If you need to change a value to make a new tone from an amp, use a Scene Controller to control that knob. Now my big thing is to run all four drive blocks into Multiplexer one (all of the drives stay on Channel A by the way), routed to the Amp 1 and Amp 2 on the same column on the grid, into Multiplexer 2. It's the fastest way I know to create eight drastically different tones gaplessly in the same preset. And you can get crazier with it, still gaplessly, by incorporating Control Switches, or even assigning a pedal to switch the channel of the Controllers block; with that, just with Scene Controllers alone you could have 32 gapless tones, potentially. I'm sure there's more wacko stuff I'm not conceiving here, but the possibilities really are extreme.

In fact, I keep fighting myself to request on the wish list to make more parameters assignable to modifiers, stuff like Negative Feedback, Speaker Impedance. If we had even more control over that stuff remotely, you could even more drastically change the sound of a single amp to make it essentially have a different character altogether, giving the impression of way more than two amps, gaplessly. But of course four completely different drives do that really well.

To go way too far now, I'll write my latest thought about this; that I'm sticking with drives that have a tone knob only, instead of BMT (usually just BT), because right now you can't assign modifiers to the BMT controls of drives (but I do have a wishlist request for that), and with the tone knob controllable with Scene Controllers, along with the Drive and Level knobs, you truly can get night and day out of your amps, gaplessly.
 
Okay, more on this. One big huge massive weapon in the arsenal to change the character of an amp gaplessly is just really making extreme use of the High Treble knob. Not that this in itself is news to anyone, but if you're going gapless, you only have so many paramters you can assign to modifiers, so I'm always looking for what can most drastically change the character.

A great example is the Brit 800 Mod, possibly the greatest amp in existence. If you mess with normal parameters, you can get every great clean to blues to rock tone you'd ever want. You turn that freakin' High Treble and MV knob down, and you can turn that thing into a 5150. You can just go nuts with it.
 
If you need to change a value to make a new tone from an amp, use a Scene Controller to control that knob.

Recently started using this for the volume boost for solos in my presets that are scenes-based. Completely seamless. Have been doing more "continuous" things with amp knobs - basically turning a continuous controller into a gas pedal. Some models go great from clean through solo gain levels, others do well up to crunch and I swap in a solo amp smoooovely at the top end of the pedal....
 
That actually all makes sense to me, but only because I watched some YT vids that explained CSs and SCs and the like. Sure, my eyes glazed over but at least the terms were getting into my head. I knew it was going to take a lot of active learning and then practice/demonstration to actually grok it.
 
Recently started using this for the volume boost for solos in my presets that are scenes-based. Completely seamless. Have been doing more "continuous" things with amp knobs - basically turning a continuous controller into a gas pedal. Some models go great from clean through solo gain levels, others do well up to crunch and I swap in a solo amp smoooovely at the top end of the pedal....

Dude, Yes, that's the stuff. That's the best thing. It's like using an expression pedal to slide smoothly to the next tone, and you can do it as it feels right. Like nuancing the volume knob on your guitar, in just the right way, but way better, because you can just play normally, and you can control just about every important knob with it! I go on about this stuff to my wife, who patiently and loving listens, that these kinds of controllers are like having a tube amp in front of you with five guys standing in front of it. As you play, at just the right time, each guy turns a single knob with each hand from one position to the next, and the next thing you know, you have a completely different tone, with no pops, no loss of sound for a second, no compensation of your playing, no nothing.

Now, the great thing about your method is the incrementalism, being able to get it just right for a single lick, if you want. I do that stuff with with my tone and volume knobs on my guitar, because even the best tone doesn't do it for me for every single line, but I can always compensate with those two knobs. Now, if I thought about it using the same idea you're presenting here, I can easily just assign, say Input Trim and Treble to my expression pedal, and just tamp it down a hair when the tone's a little in-your-face for what I want to say right then. Of course, Input Trim and Treble are not the same as a couple passive pots and a cap in a guitar, but it could say the same thing essentially with better signal to noise ratio haha.
 
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