Multi-Screen DIY controller

Gratulations, looks very nice. Be proud for your build, i dont know if i should trust me to do such a project!
Hey there
My build is a exact copy of @prongs_386 his build. I have the exact same confuguration as in his tutorial, so i can swap software instantly when he releases new updates. I made adjustments in my configuration and included them as an add-on.

With the tutorial on github and the shopping list you will have a good start. Next is to know what you want. I know now that the options are endless, asslong as you keep the memory usage low. All works fluidly and the screens update instantly .. it is really worth it to give this project a try.

Cheers
 
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Hey there @prongs_386

I just finished my project last night.. enclosure and peddleboard surface are finished. Programming is done and all is working without errors (last night had a go for more that 5 hours and no problems).

I really want to thank you for all the support on how to build and code with this amazing project. I have learned bunch of new stuff and eventually in time i will build another one with a metal surface for sure because i know i will miss this project soon enough ;) and hope to learn to code the correct way like you and TysonIT for instance.

Here are some pictures of the unit and the features it holds.
I do want to adapt your tuner screen (screen 7) into my own program some day. I had a go at it, but did not succeed yet. I got a working tuner on the 16*2 LCD and is working fine (with the code of @Piing his program) but i like yours allso very much.

Well thats it. Now all i need is to learn to play the guitar ;)


Cheers

Congratulations! That is a great project.

Do you have a pic of the guts inside?

I may embark on that when I have time, using a Nextion touch screen instead of the LCD
 
Congratulations! That is a great project.

Do you have a pic of the guts inside?

I may embark on that when I have time, using a Nextion touch screen instead of the LCD
Sure.. this is an old picture of the inside , i have cleaned all the cables so it it nice and tidy, but for that i would have to open it up. This is for the impression
 

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On a next build i would use 8-ribbon cord with connectors to serial connect the screens. If i knew before, that would be my approach but all is working now so no complaints. The trick is shielding off all connections to avoid loss of signal or getting connection errors. I used shrink sockets everywere.. and glad i did.

Cheers
 
I cannot wait :p I am going to start ordering the parts right now.

The cheapest display I've found is $2.91 from AliExpress

Arduino Due just $11. Who can resist not building this?
Hey there @Piing
i would definately recomment to buy the non-sd card version. For some reason the sd-card screens are only up to SPI_FREQUENCY 27000000 of refresh rate, as my screens are now running on SPI_FREQUENCY 46000000 and i am still overclocking to test how far i can go ;)
I bought item no 3006252015963729 at the time they were 2.04 euro.
For the resetbutton, you don't really need it if you connect a 4 pin powerbutton to the IOREF pin.

i bought way too much cable. you need prox 5 mtr per cable total (8 colors if you are going to color code), but if you are going to use the ribbon (recomment) than you can take of this length from the total.

solder: i used a whole role of solder tin (50 gram of 0,7mm) but again, if your gonna use ribbon cable, that will reduce soldering a bunch

Good luck shopping... awaiting your updates on the build ;)

Cheers
 
I am studying the ribbon solution. Anyone knows where to find cheap single-row 8-pin 2.54mm pitch IDC connectors? I cannot find them on AliExpress or Banggood. They are all double-row

I have identified this ribbon 8-pin 1.27mm pitch for 2.54 mm IDC connector

And this convenient crimping tool

But all the IDC 2.54 mm 8-pin female sockets that I see on AliExpress have two rows. I cannot find any 8-pin single row

I have find them from European and US suppliers, but the price is much higher than the display itself
 
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Hey there @prongs_386

I just finished my project last night.. enclosure and peddleboard surface are finished. Programming is done and all is working without errors (last night had a go for more that 5 hours and no problems).

I really want to thank you for all the support on how to build and code with this amazing project. I have learned bunch of new stuff and eventually in time i will build another one with a metal surface for sure because i know i will miss this project soon enough ;) and hope to learn to code the correct way like you and TysonIT for instance.

Here are some pictures of the unit and the features it holds.
I do want to adapt your tuner screen (screen 7) into my own program some day. I had a go at it, but did not succeed yet. I got a working tuner on the 16*2 LCD and is working fine (with the code of @Piing his program) but i like yours allso very much.

Well thats it. Now all i need is to learn to play the guitar ;)


Cheers
Congrats!

Definitely a great outcome and you're right there's plenty of scope to modify and improve both on the hardware and software.

My plans of recording an album during covid were a little cannabalised by this build ;) maybe 2021 is the year.
 
I am studying the ribbon solution. Anyone knows where to find cheap single-row 8-pin 2.54mm pitch IDC connectors? I cannot find them on AliExpress or Banggood. They are all double-row

I have identified this ribbon 8-pin 1.27mm pitch for 2.54 mm IDC connector

And this convenient crimping tool

But all the IDC 2.54 mm 8-pin female sockets that I see on AliExpress have two rows. I cannot find any 8-pin single row

I have find them from European and US suppliers, but the price is much higher than the display itself
Hey there

I got the ribbon idea from this picture from another diy project here on the forum:
https://forum.fractalaudio.com/threads/diy-for-axe-fx-iii-foot-controller.149565/post-1871065


The main thing is to find a way to connect al the screens serial. 7 pins are all equal, only 1 (CS) is used to adress the screen. I had a thought of using RJ45, but could not find a good option. The ribbon was a good solution.
I found the 8 pin molex KK that can be used to connect to the screen and use a ribbon wire to go to the next screen and then split to the next.
At the end can use the ribbon connector to combine all and then go to the arduino.

Will have a search too..

Cheers
 

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I guess the other option is you could mount a pcb board over the top of every screen on the same screw points as the screens. Not the nicest thing in the world, but if you solder on the pin headers, then you can easily daisy chain the screens together using whatever method including just having a redundent 2x8 pin connector.

If you don't do that then there may not be that much space left in the enclosure to connect all the ribbons to bridge the 7 pins while also allowing you to hook up the individual CS pins (which is the only pin that can't be bridged with the other screens).

I'm guessing the poster that @Axelman8 referenced custom ordered PCBs to do what I'm describing above. Unfortunately I can't really find IDC connector options to do this without a PCB.
 
Hey there

I have chained the screens with one cable per connection. I took of the isolation and soldered it to the screens. That whas a hell of a job and my guess whas that looking at the solution that has ben used in the picture, there must be other options than this. My first tryout whas from screen to screen, that was not going to be the way, as i had to solder twice on one screen.
You can see on the second picture the gray wire has bits of isolation missing.

I imagined a 8 cable ribbon with clip on connectors would/ could work to daisy chain. Just cut the CS cable out an the connector and place another cable.

My first solution, using the female test cable connectors dit somehow work. But to make it solit, i glued the connectors together so they would be one solit block. I wanted to chain the cables together but found the one cable solution to be some more easy handling.

But now i get to think of it, it could be very simple... dmn i have a brainshake moment.

/*
What if you directly solder the wire to the 1st screen and on the second add another wire to chain. You dont need to use the pins to solder to the screen, but instead solder the wire. Now for that you could easily use ribbon cable 1mm I guess. */

Maby that gives a clue what connection was used in the picture (other project)

Cheers
 

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I guess the other option is you could mount a pcb board over the top of every screen on the same screw points as the screens. Not the nicest thing in the world, but if you solder on the pin headers, then you can easily daisy chain the screens together using whatever method including just having a redundent 2x8 pin connector.

If you don't do that then there may not be that much space left in the enclosure to connect all the ribbons to bridge the 7 pins while also allowing you to hook up the individual CS pins (which is the only pin that can't be bridged with the other screens).

I'm guessing the poster that @Axelman8 referenced custom ordered PCBs to do what I'm describing above. Unfortunately I can't really find IDC connector options to do this without a PCB.
Hey there @prongs_386

Yes that could be the trick.. 2 rows off 8 and then solder together with chain wire and using isolation tape could do it.

Cheers
 
I think that I will finally solder the wires directly to the displays PCB, not using the pins
 
I think that I will finally solder the wires directly to the displays PCB, not using the pins
Hey there

I think that would be a good option.. The connection would be all the same.
 

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Hey there

To those who are following and maby thinking about joining this project , i made a short video showing how the peddleboard is working.

Audio and video quality is nothing like a Leon Todd with cool intro or outtro. It is my first one so bare with me ;)


Cheers


 
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Hey there

To those who are following and maby thinking about joining this project , i made a short (crappy) video showing how the peddleboard is working.

Audio and video quality is nothing like a Leon Todd with cool intro or outtro. It is my first one so beare with me ;)


Cheers



Great video well done.

You've got a bit more polish on your display functions than me 🙂 + a few extra tricks like the wah hint.
 
Hey there

To those who are following and maby thinking about joining this project , i made a short video showing how the peddleboard is working.

Audio and video quality is nothing like a Leon Todd with cool intro or outtro. It is my first one so bare with me ;)


Cheers




Great video! Very well explained. Thank you!

BTW: I like your T-shirt
 
Great video! Very well explained. Thank you!

BTW: I like your T-shirt
Hey there Piing

I like the shirt too.. supporting the team ;)


I forgot 2 options to mention like audition mode in the preset page.. but overall i guess even with the unintended freeze it shows the program is still under development, but very usable.

The video can give some inspiration what you can do and create. For me it whas pushing myself further in exploring possibilities and eventually got a working solution.
Really exited what you are going to build. Your office binder solution whas brilliant 😀 ..

Cheers
 
Great video well done.

You've got a bit more polish on your display functions than me 🙂 + a few extra tricks like the wah hint.
Hey there
This thread made it all possible for me. I still am working on some "tricks" :) but my skills are limited.

Hope to flash your latest version without it freezing on me. After your fetching presetnames option your software is not working correctly on my end.
I have the Ringbuffer set to 512 and got SPI on 2.7MHZ for the screens but still it is very slow or freezes up.

Happy to contribute this thread. Keep it up

Cheers
 
Hey there

Next on the program... getting rid off the midi in and out cables by using the faslink connector on the AxeFXIII. It has rx, tx and ground, so this could work. I had a working solution with the MFC101 and the AxeFXIII. If it works, the only cable needed is a UTP /rj45 cat 5 or 6 and the signal can go up to 500 meters

Stay tuned ;)

Edit: will try to use the power from the Axe too hope nothing blows up


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