Modern Guitars, Then and Now.

Fro68 said:
I just didn’t get along with the enduro neck. If they would soften the angle on the back or offer a C neck option, and drop the price by at least $600, I’d be first in line.
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I don't really mind the price if they fix stuff and stop cutting corners.
 
Andy Eagle said:
Electrics are all excellent ;
Suhr SSV and SSH+ with CTS metric pots and CRL four pole switch and quality jack.
Not quite sure why you would go to the trouble of a proprietary metal dome knob and make it worse than a standard one (smooth no grip.)
View attachment 91174
Given that CTS pots are quite stiff this is not great considering the company is predicated on a new ergonomic look at the guitar. The new one is only slightly better but worse the a f###### Telecaster knob.
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Knobs are easily replaced....
 
Dave Merrill said:
Is the Original 6 the same as the Original 6 NX? If not, how much worse is the NX?
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The Original 6 is far better but with the older hardware. In the first post I detail the difference. The new one also has a slightly revised heel shape, but it doesn't make any difference in practice. The Rev 7 hardware is better though. The new one is a substantial downgrade in the guitar with a heel refinement and some of the shortcomings in the hardware fixed. If it is possible to get I will fit a Rev 7 headpiece.
 
This thread has me thinking back to when i was 16 and my weekly browsing at the guitar shop down the street. just loaded with 80s style guitars and original Peavey 5150 amps that I lusted over. There was always the same Peavey Vandenberg on the wall and at the time it just looked so modern. Anyone ever have experience with those? This thread coaxed a random memory for me this morning.
 
Chewie5150 said:
This thread has me thinking back to when i was 16 and my weekly browsing at the guitar shop down the street. just loaded with 80s style guitars and original Peavey 5150 amps that I lusted over. There was always the same Peavey Vandenberg on the wall and at the time it just looked so modern. Anyone ever have experience with those? This thread coaxed a random memory for me this morning.
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I bought a used Vandenberg back in the early 90s.

I liked it - very shred friendly neck.

Sold it to a friend who had the original soft-pink finish redone with pearl white.

I think the trem was the Floyd Rose licensed Kahler version.
 
Yes the Kahler 2710 a beast of overthinking.
818f8f2fbcfc4050176098ab801e1181--bridges-guitar.jpg
Huge additional complexity to no improvement over the OFR design. It strings up without cutting off the ball end and locks at the bridge without tools but you still need an Allen key to lock the nut so not really much gained (nothing actually).
 
The best trem by Kahler is by far the Steeler.
C123_V_1.JPG
A basic Floyd copy but with couple of really good modifications.
The saddle bolt was flipped upside down and the slot is in the baseplate making the blot stay in the correct place in the saddle. Also adjustable normally from the top like an Allen grub screw but it was a left hand thread bolt with a flat head adjusted from the bottom "genius."
Then we made the radius using steps pressed in to the baseplate making all the saddles the same.
All built from hardened steel and fantastic quality.
 
Andy Eagle said:
The best trem by Kahler is by far the Steeler.
View attachment 91228
A basic Floyd copy but with couple of really good modifications.
The saddle bolt was flipped upside down and the slot is in the baseplate making the blot stay in the correct place in the saddle. Also adjustable normally from the top like an Allen grub screw but it was a left hand thread bolt with a flat head adjusted from the bottom "genius."
Then we made the radius using steps pressed in to the baseplate making all the saddles the same.
All built from hardened steel and fantastic quality.
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Bonus: It only has the brand name on it once instead of 7 times like the 2710. ;-]
 
When it comes to excellent and improved Floyd Rose Systems, I really dig the ABM Katana.
Made from Bell Brass with removable knive edges made from steel.
You can adjust octaves etc. with fully strong tension and you also don’t have to remove the ball ends.
I have build a few guitars with these, awesome trem and compatible to a Floyd Rose.
https://abm-guitarpartsshop.com/ABM....html?MODsid=063967a1bf3a3908e7c22c05d8095025
https://www.projectguitar.com/product_reviews/guitar_parts/abm-5400-katana-tremolo-system-r4/
 
Andy Eagle said:
The best trem by Kahler is by far the Steeler.
View attachment 91228
A basic Floyd copy but with couple of really good modifications.
The saddle bolt was flipped upside down and the slot is in the baseplate making the blot stay in the correct place in the saddle. Also adjustable normally from the top like an Allen grub screw but it was a left hand thread bolt with a flat head adjusted from the bottom "genius."
Then we made the radius using steps pressed in to the baseplate making all the saddles the same.
All built from hardened steel and fantastic quality.
Click to expand...
@Andy Eagle you used the word "we" here: "Then we made the radius using steps pressed in to the baseplate making all the saddles the same".

Does that mean you were involved in that design? Or autocorrect at work?

It does seem like it has a bunch of improvements.
 
Sashman said:
When it comes to excellent and improved Floyd Rose Systems, I really dig the ABM Katana.
Made from Bell Brass with removable knive edges made from steel.
You can adjust octaves etc. with fully strong tension and you also don’t have to remove the ball ends.
I have build a few guitars with these, awesome trem and compatible to a Floyd Rose.
https://abm-guitarpartsshop.com/ABM....html?MODsid=063967a1bf3a3908e7c22c05d8095025
https://www.projectguitar.com/product_reviews/guitar_parts/abm-5400-katana-tremolo-system-r4/
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I will go in detail as to why this is not even close. Not a single thing about the Floyd is improved on here.
 
I have looked at the Katana forever and been really interested. They used to sell in the US through AllParts, but they stopped, so now you have to go direct from Germany. I searched for reviews some time ago, but there were only some comments in German on forum posts, and I couldn’t get a feel for how good they were in practice. ABM has always seemed like a cool company to me, but that only from reading their write ups.
 
ABM is good and this is well built BUT:
What is amiss with the 1996? tone or performance?
Also the old question is high mass better ?
The hardened steel of the 1996 together with minimal part count and strings being clamped directly to the saddle, plus locked springs and studs are all better than this unit.
OK adjustment are easy but at the cost of performance. Increased part count never helps tone. The best sounding bridge would be one that had the saddles cut to the exact size so no adjustments was ever needed. It would also have a hard durable baseplate without the need for extra bits bolted on at a crucial tone transfer point. The 1996 is the absolute best of this approach available now .
 
Andy Eagle said:
ABM is good and this is well built BUT:
What is amiss with the 1996? tone or performance?
Also the old question is high mass better ?
The hardened steel of the 1996 together with minimal part count and strings being clamped directly to the saddle, plus locked springs and studs are all better than this unit.
OK adjustment are easy but at the cost of performance. Increased part count never helps tone. The best sounding bridge would be one that had the saddles cut to the exact size so no adjustments was ever needed. It would also have a hard durable baseplate without the need for extra bits bolted on at a crucial tone transfer point. The 1996 is the absolute best of this approach available now .
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I clearly have to disagree about tone here because I have build enough guitars with both terms.
I have measured increased sustain with the ABM against a original 1996 that I personally own.
If
But as I stated before, tone and sound is always subjective.
 
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