Will do then. There so much parameters, and lately with all the updates, I've been trying to keep it simple, and try to play as much as I can.
I've realized that there's less need for tweaking now as it was back in the day.
Cliff mentioned that he never messed with certain parameters, I do the same. It would be great to have a detailed parameter guide, for dummies of course, since after 17 years of playing, and never owning a tube amp before, it gets pretty cryptic.
Well, I mean different strokes for different folks, you know? You may find that you HATE motor drive. I know for a fact that Scott Peterson dislikes motor drive, and there's no arguing with that guy's epic grasp of getting the tones he wants out of the box.
Here's the amp wiki:
AMP (block) - Axe-Fx II Wiki
For what it's worth, I don't really screw around with advanced amp/cab parameters. Sometimes I'll do it just for fun, but as the FW has gotten on I've come to prefer stock settings on a lot of the stuff. For me, I've found that the fastest workflow is to do the following:
1. Pick a couple IRs that I know I'm going to like and put them into a stereo cab summed mono and adjust volume of two IRs until satisfied with balance (for example - if using SM57 with R121, R121 will need to be reduced in volume)
2. Pick amp
3. Set thunk and motor drive to around 9 o' clock
4. Dial in preset with standard controls
5. Adjust thunk and motor drive to desired taste
After that, it's usually just a matter of adjusting some frequency content with maybe a PEQ after the cab block, or maybe as simple as using the cab low and hi cut to get rid of the "useless" material - anything below 60 Hz and anything above 10,000 Hz. Since I'm using the Axe-fx II for recording, I actually prefer to keep most of the sonic content in tact, making cuts as needed for the mix in the DAW. Some guys like to record with a MBC on. Some guys like to record so that they don't have to EQ anything out once they get the signal recorded. It's all a matter of preference at that point.