Let's see those FM3 rigs!

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So I hacked the L6 G10 wireless 😉
External antenna, external LEDs, moved the charging jack, added a 78L05 regulator and caps to run it from DC power, added DC jacks to power the midi mongoose and MC6 ... all powered off faslink 12v phantom

the mongoose switches programs and banks up or down in 5s or 10s. The MC6 just does scenes.

and 13x17 so it still fits in the harbor freight briefcase toolbox.

caught me Ridin' nerdy 😏
Wait slowdown. Explain this to me like I’m 5 please. How do you power the MC6 and Wireless off of the fractals Faslink? Teach me.

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Wait slowdown. Explain this to me like I’m 5 please. How do you power the MC6 and Wireless off of the fractals Faslink? Teach me.

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You use an XLR plug into FASlink socket on the Fractal gear, you identify which are the 2 wires delivering power (DVM or such) and…..bingo, use them as power source.
Just make sure you don’t overuse the current (mA) the FASlink can provide. Do not connect other gear which withdraws more current than FASlink can provide.
Good luck.
 
Wait slowdown. Explain this to me like I’m 5 please. How do you power the MC6 and Wireless off of the fractals Faslink? Teach me.
The wireless has a 5v supply on a very flimsy micro usb jack. It required a voltage regulator circuit to step down the voltage. And a much more robust jack.
I have built a few of these with 78L05 regulators and a couple of polarized caps.
Both the MC6 and the MidiMongoose will operate happily at 12V though.
 
The wireless has a 5v supply on a very flimsy micro usb jack. It required a voltage regulator circuit to step down the voltage. And a much more robust jack.
I have built a few of these with 78L05 regulators and a couple of polarized caps.
Both the MC6 and the MidiMongoose will operate happily at 12V though.
I assume you are using a G10 and not the newer version G10s...?
The newer version (pedal form factor) has a normal 9v pedal input jack (thank god). I don't understand why L6 decided back than to design the G10 with this crapy lil micro USB input jack, so gentle and breaks easily and above all. 5v? seriously???
 
I assume you are using a G10 and not the newer version G10s...?
The newer version (pedal form factor) has a normal 9v pedal input jack (thank god). I don't understand why L6 decided back than to design the G10 with this crapy lil micro USB input jack, so gentle and breaks easily and above all. 5v? seriously???
Yes it's the old G10. I have a couple of them with original firmware. The G10s is a better design.
 
Yes it's the old G10. I have a couple of them with original firmware. The G10s is a better design.
You might want to upgrade the FW of both transmitter and receiver to the latest.
There is a hazard on L6 web site concerning the battery in the transmitter getting hot with a danger of explosion while recharging.
I've upgraded both my G10 and G10s and there is a significant temp' decrease while recharging, the transmitter doesn't warm now at all.
 
You might want to upgrade the FW of both transmitter and receiver to the latest.
There is a hazard on L6 web site concerning the battery in the transmitter getting hot with a danger of explosion while recharging.
I've upgraded both my G10 and G10s and there is a significant temp' decrease while recharging, the transmitter doesn't warm now at all.
Have you found the battery life decreased with a firmware update on the G10?
I've seen the emails from L6 and lots of fire hazard talk. But also users that hated the battery life decrease after the update

I'm looking into another solution for the FM9. I have ran dual G10s for years without issue though.
 
Have you found the battery life decreased with a firmware update on the G10?
I've seen the emails from L6 and lots of fire hazard talk. But also users that hated the battery life decrease after the update

I'm looking into another solution for the FM9. I have ran dual G10s for years without issue though.
Hmmm now that you mentioned it, yes and no...
My old G10 transmitter still has plenty of life in it, the transmitter runs for aprox' 2-3hr without a problem like it used to be in the beginning prior the FW upgrade,
I have it for more than 3 years and it served me well on hundreds of recharges, rehearsals, home use and live.
However the G10s which is much newer has something like half the G10 time. it runs for 1 +/- hr top.
I know some people have managed to replace the internal battery but didn't try it myself.
 
Yet another incarnation. For my purposes (mostly teaching in my home studio), I wanted to be able to access more stuff on the fly - so I added a Dunlop mini volume, Crybaby mini wah, and EHX Pitchfork. This way I can use them with any stock or custom preset. I have a Strymon Big Sky after the FM3 into a Pigtronix Infinity 2 which goes out to power monitor.67818B1F-B950-4F91-B7FF-1A4D88FBB850.jpeg
 
Here's mine, which needed to be small to fit in a Corvette, so...

Gokko/Soyan 12" X 18" aluminum pedalboard (with cheap soft case only $60).

TC Mic Mechanic (vocal).
Custom Tube Preamp (passive pups hitting a real custom biased tube for warmth/presence and feel, though the FM3's Amp Block is providing all tone shaping and gain staging).
Behrringer Wired IEM Headphone Amp (no worries about interference or dead batteries, and I'm not going to be jumping off drum risers, too old LOL!).

Custom Patchbay (to save the FM3's connectors from people tripping on cables on blacked out stages!).

The whole pedalboard complete with DIY patchbay and cabling cost around $100 (with cheap soft case), including clockable XLR's and right-angle MIDI connectors, D-Series punched project box, plus the D-Series 5-Pin DINs and XLR connectors, and the D-Series1/4" connector.

The FM3's FAS Link connector is powering the TC, Tube Pre, and Behrringer (total < 650ma @ 12V).

There is also a Mosky Dual Switch that will be dual-locked to the CEBA Screen Protectors assuming they ever ship, right above FC3.

UPDATE: Just got the CEBA shipping email, thanks CEBA!

FC Setup...

FC1 tap controls the Ableton LIVE Looper Plugin's Play Button, and hold the FM3's Tuner.
FC2 tap controls the Ableton LIVE Looper Plugin's Undo Button (PANIC!), and hold Ableton LIVE's Session Loop Button.
FC3 tap increments through the Scenes, and hold switches FX.

The Mosky Dual Switch taps select Auto-Wah and a Big Delay/Hold FX.

Everything else is automated.

Just an example of a non-standard usage, and thanks to FAS for making the FM3 not only sound so good, but also making it be so versatile routing and controller-wise!

Drunk with POWER, a 4 Tube AXFM5!

 
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Finally took a day to get my new desk put together and reorganize my recording setup. Biggest
win was getting this L-shaped desk so I don't have the back of my mixer's I/O inaccessible and
against a wall. I hate that. Now I can route shit like drums, vocals, ISO cab, and any mic'd up amps
in an instant. Easy peasy! Also getting the CPU away from the Monitor has totally eliminated ALL
noise and interference. What a difference. Wow! Massive improvement. I have the Kali's cranked and
there is not even the slightest hint of any kind of hiss. Love it!
 
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Here's the current setup. Cabling is a mess as I'm still figuring out what I want to do this go around. I just got an FC6 as well, so the MC6 might be replaced. I like the size of the MC6, but I haven't had the best luck with Midi. I run the Comp and drives before the Fm3 as I use the loop out to feed an on stage monitor. We go stereo to house. I wish there was a way to use the loop for the drives and still have a monitor out, but, oh well!
 
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