Let's see those FM3 rigs!

I'd say, yup, I'm really not certain why some boards require access modification, and others don't. The example here is one that didn't require modification. My guess is that the Temple Audio IEC power module connected directly from the side port, through the access hole. Or, the plug that connects to the FM3 is an aftermarket adapter cable that fits through the access hole. The female IEC plug connected to the FM3 doesn't seem to be altered in any way.

Anyone else who has used the TA IEC power module, is this also the case with your boards?

I've asked Temple Audio to weigh in on this matter, and I'll report this once the info is available.
My guess would be the IEC that is plugged into the FM3 is being powered by a Voodoo Lab pedal power 2 plus as that has a courtesy out IEC on it. The OP could have cut the IEC cable and pulled it through the Temple Board and then rewired the IEC plug on the other end. The Temple Audio module would plug into the other jack on the voodoo lab or equivalent power supply which would then go to the wall.

There are other pedals being powered on this board as well so it would make sense there is another power supply under there.

I just drilled the hole out on the Temple Board a little and used some rubber grommets to hid the hole. Worked out great! And I'm not usually good at the sort of thing lol.

I hope that helps.
 
Paul,

What size drill bit did you use, and also the rubber grommet size, please?
I ended up using one of these. I just drilled out a little at a time until the IEC fitted through. I can't remember what size grommets they were but probably around 25mm I suppose. Might be a good idea to buy a few different sizes just I case you have a few cables you need to fit through the hole.

Amazon product ASIN B01FD87FH4
 
I ended up using one of these. I just drilled out a little at a time until the IEC fitted through. I can't remember what size grommets they were but probably around 25mm I suppose. Might be a good idea to buy a few different sizes just I case you have a few cables yo need to fit through the hole.

Amazon product ASIN B01FD87FH4

Thanks. it may have been that @strat_57 rewired an under-board power supply IEC adapter cable, or it may have been that the connection IEC cable was a mini plug, similar to those used with computer printers. The under-board power supply might have been a separate type of supply. That would also explain not modifying his board.

There might be several grommet diameters at my local hardware store. My woodworker/mechanic buddy has the step down bits we'll use for the build.
 
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Thanks. it may have been that @strat_57 rewired an under-board power supply IEC adapter cable, or it may have been that the connection IEC cable was a mini plug, similar to those used with computer printers. The under-board power supply might have been a separate type of supply. That would also explain not modifying his board.

There might be several grommet diameters at my local hardware store. My woodworker/mechanic buddy has the step down bits we'll use for the build.
Good luck with the build. Looking forward to see some pics when you're done!
 
I'd say, yup, I'm really not certain why some boards require access modification, and others don't. The example here is one that didn't require modification. My guess is that the Temple Audio IEC power module connected directly from the side port, through the access hole. Or, the plug that connects to the FM3 is an aftermarket adapter cable that fits through the access hole. The female IEC plug connected to the FM3 in the image here doesn't seem to be altered in any way.
@Deadpool_25,
If modification is required, what size step-down drill bit is required, plz? Will review what size grommet is also required.

You might’ve missed that @strat_57 implies that he did something.

My only gripe is that you need to be creative about the power cable - those holes do not allow for a simple plug and play!
If you see any TA boards with an IEC cable running through them, either the board or the cable has been modified.

A few people in this thread have carefully shaved rubber off the male IEC end in order to fit the cable through the holes without modifying the board.

A couple of people have cut the IEC cable run it through the board and resoldered it. I actually did this myself because I have the IEC power module myself and that was my plan, but I ended up just running the IEC straight from the FM3 to the wall. I decided there was basically no benefit for me to using the power module.

Although a step down bit can get the job done, I recommend against it because it makes for a pretty ugly mod. You need a hole about 1 1/8” in diameter. When I was working on the “more complicated” version of my board (that’s a serious understatement btw; more about it below) I drilled out a few holes. Here’s a pic; like I said, it can get ugly lol.

image.jpg
Disregard the shiny stuff which is epoxy. I had an aluminum surface custom machined and epoxied it to the top of the temple board. Again, I ended up canceling that project.

image.jpg
 
I think the best options are:
1. Cut the cable, feed it through, and resolder it (also gives the benefit of having it cut to length)
2. Shave down the IEC male end of the cable as little as possible to get it to fit.

Actually, I think the best option is to just run power straight from FM3 to the wall, but that’s just me. :)
 
I think the best options are:
1. Cut the cable, feed it through, and resolder it (also gives the benefit of having it cut to length)
2. Shave down the IEC male end of the cable as little as possible to get it to fit.

Actually, I think the best option is to just run power straight from FM3 to the wall, but that’s just me. :)

Thanks. If I absolutely have to. I think the safest bet is to drill thru a larger access hole, centered, and fit a rubber grommet inside. I think if I try this (my buddy & I will speak together to review first), we might be successful. One alternative is select a smaller access hole (used for zip ties) and widen that while secured. I'd avoid drilling more than one hole though, seeing what occurred with yours. IIRC, my buddy has a drill press that can secure the upper surface so nothing slips or slides. It may be labor intensive, but really, I'm not expecting miracles.

I'll sleep on this and set about working on things in the morning. Temple customer support will reply hopefully Monday or Tuesday with their advice regards the how-tos of the IEC power module. They may have some insight we've not considered yet. Will adopt a "wait and see" attitude.
 
I think the best options are:
1. Cut the cable, feed it through, and resolder it (also gives the benefit of having it cut to length)
2. Shave down the IEC male end of the cable as little as possible to get it to fit.

Actually, I think the best option is to just run power straight from FM3 to the wall, but that’s just me. :)

I've given this bit of thought. Your last statement was correct. I've have concluded that unless the IEC power module would greatly improve the FM3's tone or sound with its noise suppression abilities, it might make better sense to simply keep the integrity of the board intact, and allow a regular IEC cable to connect to the FM3 above the board, from the FM3.

Not only would it save money, time, and effort, the results would be a neat and clean board. Will ask Temple if they agree, and mention that future R&D might include sales that would improve their design.

Thank you. Quick note to Temple, and I'm good for now.
 
Here is my FM3 rig from my last two gigs this past weekend. Working and sounding great.

CiCITe3.jpg
 
Regards the power cable, Temple's IEC power module seems like it might connect correctly...this is also part of my wish list...
IEC connectors fit, but won’t fit through the board; it’s intended to power a traditional pedal power supply.

I cut mine, threaded it through then resoldered it. It’s possible to use a clip-on IEC plug instead but those add a lot of length to the connector and I’m trying to keep all the connectors as short as possible.
 
IEC connectors fit, but won’t fit through the board; it’s intended to power a traditional pedal power supply.

I cut mine, threaded it through then resoldered it. It’s possible to use a clip-on IEC plug instead but those add a lot of length to the connector and I’m trying to keep all the connectors as short as possible.

Therein lies the rub. The preference for a clean board that doesn't require modification superseded the need for an IEC Power Module.

My buddy who is my handyman/workshop mentor is also a part-time guitar repair tech, and has agreed to help assemble my boards. He would be better equipped to handle cut and/or solder, but I don't wish to risk losing the cost of the IEC module in case things go bad. And I wouldn't wish him to be responsible for replacing the module.

For both me and my friend's sake, I wouldn't put him in that position of responsibility, although he may feel confident he could do the job well. The issue really is, the resources, time, and effort needed would not expedite the process. And may not produce the desired results.

Both options weighed, decision is to not install an IEC Power Module for my build.
 
IEC connectors fit, but won’t fit through the board; it’s intended to power a traditional pedal power supply.

I cut mine, threaded it through then resoldered it. It’s possible to use a clip-on IEC plug instead but those add a lot of length to the connector and I’m trying to keep all the connectors as short as possible.

Greg,

Both you and Paul have a good knowledge of what works and what won't.

Is it possible to attach the adhesion pads on the metal underside of either the FM3/FC6/FC12, or do the pads need to attach on a non-level rubber-edged surface from the edges of the FM3/FC6/FC12?

A fellow forum member is also considering the Temple boards as his next project; I'm asking for both him and myself...
 
I get around 590mm working surface. I can get an FC6, 2 x EV2's and a Mission EP-1 on there plus a couple of other bits on there. You won't get an EV-1 on there. Maybe an EV-2 but it's still pretty snug.

I hope that helps.View attachment 86488View attachment 86489View attachment 86493

Are you using the large pads to hold down your FM3? I was worried they might not work because I was sure if they were tall enough to clear the feet and hold securely
 
Are you using the large pads to hold down your FM3? I was worried they might not work because I was sure if they were tall enough to clear the feet and hold securely
See post #1,357 in this thread.

The adhesive needs a little time to get a good grip. Mine has held really well, but two days ago I was rewiring it and had it upside down and one loosened letting the FC-6 rotate a little. I recentered it and pushed it down, then released the screws and pressed the pads down again and it's back to a nice firm grip.

I think that gravity plus all the jostling as I worked on it caused something to loosen; I had it on its sides and ends and on its top which obviously aren't normal/expected playing positions. My note to myself is to never leave it sitting upside down or on a side for a long period and top load it sitting flat when I'm heading out to play.
 
Here's a minor update to my board...

My goal is the reduce the size of anything sticking off the back panel of the FM3 or FC-6. My first outing with the FM3 resulted in one of the OUT 1 XLR plugs getting stepped on, which bent its pins causing one of my two FRFR cabinets to go silent for the rest of the night.

Yesterday I wired several Flat Plug TRS 1/4" to regular TRS 1/4" to replace the lines coming from foot controllers on the FC-6. They're pictured below.

I'm also switching to my Dunlop Mini controllers because they're a little smaller and fit into the bag easier than the EV-2, which are now on my FX3 + FC12.

IMG_0787.pngIMG_0788.png

My next project is to replace the full-size XLR OUT1 connectors with the small Switchcraft AAA low profile plugs (AAA3FBLPPKG). They're about the same size as the current FASLink connectors in the above photos, but have steel shells instead of plastic.


And here's the FM3 with the small Switchcraft AAA plugs. Reducing the length of the plugs helps me feel more confident the system will survive an attack by a big-footed drunken singer... though I am still considering gluing broken glass or razor wire on the back edge as an additional deterrent.

IMG_0049.png
 
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Are you using the large pads to hold down your FM3? I was worried they might not work because I was sure if they were tall enough to clear the feet and hold securely
I'm not using the TA pads no. I'm using Sukh's (Zenrigs) Uni riser and just some velcro. I find it easier to work with and I can always remove it easily and re attach to the board if need be.

You're right they wouldn't be tall enough you'd need to make some sort of riser and then attach the TA pads to that as it would need to clear the feet on the end caps. You could always take the end caps off as well. I know Paul Z another forum member on here used some plexiglass and attached the pads to that which then attached to the board. His post is on this thread somewhere.
 
I don't care for TA pads at all. Had them on a my regular pedalboard and made the mistake of putting the plates directly on the pedals. When I decided to sell most of the pedals on that board they were a PIA to remove and clean.
That's valid as far as removal from a regular pedal, but the pads work with the Fractal units with the addition of the Dual Lock, and removing Dual Lock strips from pedals is pretty straightforward as they leave little or no residue.
 
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