Let's see those FM3 rigs!

[bleujazz3]

I've been adjusting this board, and finally have it set up in a semi-permanent configuration. I think.

It's built on a Temple Audio Duo 24. Their 4X Mod is on the right front panel.

It's configured with port #1 going to the FM3 input via a short piece of Bill L's pedal board cable and two of the right-angle plugs. The plugs fit through the large holes on the board. Port #2 and #3 are the volume pedal and wah respectively, both are FAS EV-2 and are configured to be disabled when toe down. The connecting TRS cables are some generic ones from Amazon. All cables are locked down with cable-ties.

The XLR between the FC-6 and FM3 is a '10" Low-Profile XLR-3 Adjustable Angle cable' from Redding Audio.

The Out 1 connectors route under the board to the Temple Audio XLR mod on the trailing left panel. The power is on the left front micro panel and is Temple Audio's IEC mod. I cut the power cable, threaded it through the board, then soldered it back together with extra heat-shrink tubing. Wire ties keep it immobile so I'm not worried about it wearing from vibration, shorting out, and spouting flames.

Originally I used long nylon wire ties, because I wanted to be able to remove the FM3 and FC6 easily, but the ties would slip off when I carried the board in its bag. After thinking about it a while I decided to try using 3M Dual Lock (SJ3560) between Temple Audio's large pedal plates and the units. I cut the Dual Lock into 6x3" strips, then stuck three to the plate's adhesive pad so they were adhesive to adhesive, then pressed three of the strips crossways, then positioned them on the board and placed the units above them to figure out their final locations where the pads would fit just inside the feet on the unit and it sat level on the board. When I was happy I lifted the unit off, then screwed the plates down, peeled off the backing for the top layers of Dual Lock and carefully put the unit back down and pressed it against the adhesive. After letting it sit for a couple minutes I unscrewed the plates, lifted the unit off, turned it over and pressed the plate firmly against the bottom to make sure it had a good grip, then reattached it to the board and screwed the plates back down.

There are multiple types of Dual Lock, and you can mix and match them, depending on what pull strength you want. The SJ3560 version has wavy lines across it, and is clear. Their product page talks about the combinations they recommend, but be warned because their top level is REALLY hard to take apart. I have to use a long flat-head screwdriver to pry apart the stuff I used.

I was concerned the plate might be pulled away from the bottom of the FM3 or FC-6 but the two layers of Dual Lock are the right thickness to fill the gap. I can lift the entire board by the attached FM3 or FC6, there's absolutely no wiggle, and I can easily remove them by undoing the thumbscrews.

I carry it all in the Duo 24 travel bag for local outings.

View attachment 86544

The only thing I'd like to change is to use a locking TS jack, but I tried two different ones and they both added a LOT of noise. I might get one that isn't a straight through design and solder directly to the terminals, but shielding that will be an interesting exercise.

Greg,

Your work looks neat and tidy. Good housekeeping seal of approval here. Gotta ask, are the red ring connectors your XLR FASlink?

Most of the Temple boards I've personally viewed here are outstanding quality. My feelings that something well-constructed should last a long time. For that reason, my weighing of build or no-build are now inclined towards build. Only thing I can't foresee doing for my build is adding a supplemental ¼" port array for my EV-1s. The EV-1s in my case would reside on a Duo 34, connected by 3' TRS thru/under/thru to my FC12, same board.

"Practical use" would add XLR F/M ports for FASlink and XLR MM speaker outs on the Duo 34. My companion Duo 17 FM3 board would add XLR F/M for FASlink and IEC power module.

For gigging use, the XLR MM ports would be sends to FOH. The FM3 Output 2 would be a HeadRush FRFR108 floor monitor send, or not, depending on the venue.

I'm guessing that the XLR F/M will work if trying to connect the FM3 output 2 to the XLR F/M port. (I think I'd need a short length of TRS>TRS cable for this. Trying to comprehend the birds and bees aspect of M>F and F>M XLR/TRS connections/cabling to floor monitor. Plz chime in if anyone reading this happens to know. IIRC, FASlink would require a female port output to male port input on the FC12. Output 2 > male port output connects to female speaker port input. Yeah, I think that's it.)

Separate safe bet would be to bring a FRFR108 in case the venue didn't/couldn't route to floor monitor.

Thanks again for showing us your current rig. Each person's input is valuable.

 

[Greg Ferguson]

are the red ring connectors your XLR FASlink?

Yes.

The XLR between the FC-6 and FM3 is a '10" Low-Profile XLR-3 Adjustable Angle cable' from Redding Audio.

 

[Rob13]

Viewing all these boards has caused me a quandary. I've been busy thinking how to put 2 EV-1s and an FC12 on one board, with my FM3 on a separate board. The Temple Audio boards look neat, and when put together correctly, produce good results.

My only issue is that I get a little cranky when I don't finish what I had prepared and set out to do. (Read: Poor attempt at humor, do not laugh. LOL.)

I've got money set aside for this project, but am wondering if a homebuilt 2x4 and plywood board with Temple accessories wouldn't be more cost-effective, if not slightly heavier?

In past years, my carpenter brother and I built a pedalboard riser from 2x4s, 1x3s and ply. Sanded, stained and sealed it. Was hoping to ask a friend (or my brother) to help with the routing and assembly of the two new boards.

In your view, would it be more wise to try the homebuilt, or just pay for the TA boards and accessories and build these?

For me, the decision to build vs buy really came down to what I was going to use to transport the whole thing...or, what case/bag options I had.

I hate a case that is just too big. Stuff moves around, gets unplugged or ends up resting on a cable end and causing problems down the road.

So, I actually started with a case I wanted to use & built up from there. Yes, it restricted me in terms of what I could have on the board, but I like working within parameters like that, anyway.

Temple stuff is awesome. I know several folks who use those boards/cases for FM3, AX8, Helix, etc. My issues with them are (no particular order): A) Price of board, case, accessories 2) weight of board, accessories, case and my gear iii) no choice (from TA) of case beyond bag or wood ATA-style. (I have these same issues with PedalTrain stuff, too...)

 

[Greg Ferguson]

Viewing all these boards has caused me a quandary. I've been busy thinking how to put 2 EV-1s and an FC12 on one board, with my FM3 on a separate board. The Temple Audio boards look neat, and when put together correctly, produce good results.

My only issue is that I get a little cranky when I don't finish what I had prepared and set out to do. (Read: Poor attempt at humor, do not laugh. LOL.)

I've got money set aside for this project, but am wondering if a homebuilt 2x4 and plywood board with Temple accessories wouldn't be more cost-effective, if not slightly heavier?

In past years, my carpenter brother and I built a pedalboard riser from 2x4s, 1x3s and ply. Sanded, stained and sealed it. Was hoping to ask a friend (or my brother) to help with the routing and assembly of the two new boards.

In your view, would it be more wise to try the homebuilt, or just pay for the TA boards and accessories and build these?

You're over thinking it.

Lay each of the components you want on the floor and connect them, then test them that way a lot over a couple days or weeks. Move things if you don't like it, or change to different pedals, whatever it takes to find your happy place.

Once the layout and pedal choices are stable then move them apart into functional groups based on your original concept. If you wanted the FM3 by itself with the FC12 and some expression pedals connected to it, or you wanted the FM3 and FC12 next to it with expression pedals... whatever, just figure out how to group them logically because that's how you'll determine what size boards you need.

Once you know that then start looking at different brands that make boards in the size you want. Then start narrowing them down based on the features you want.

Temple Audio is a bit more expensive but they have the fun little modules and you can find more D-space units that fit in beyond their offerings. And, their mounting panels work really well for my Duo 24 and the FM3+FC6, and make it easy to take them off if I don't want to use the whole board for travel when I absolutely must run away and hide from ... nevermind, no need to share that part.

Pedal Train has a lot of nice boards but they lack the modules and the panels, but you should be able to position the units on the bars and lock them down with Dual Lock so it'll take a long flathead screwdriver to pry them off. There are lots of solutions but figuring out how you want to lay it out is the first big step and experimenting and using it is the best answer.

2x4" + 1x3" and plywood is heavier and more bulky. Some people use wooden pallets. Some use nylon cutting boards. The important thing is to start testing, not agonizing over it.

 

[bleujazz3]

You're over thinking it.

Lay each of the components you want on the floor and connect them, then test them that way a lot over a couple days or weeks. Move things if you don't like it, or change to different pedals, whatever it takes to find your happy place.

Once the layout and pedal choices are stable then move them apart into functional groups based on your original concept. If you wanted the FM3 by itself with the FC12 and some expression pedals connected to it, or you wanted the FM3 and FC12 next to it with expression pedals... whatever, just figure out how to group them logically because that's how you'll determine what size boards you need.

Once you know that then start looking at different brands that make boards in the size you want. Then start narrowing them down based on the features you want.

Temple Audio is a bit more expensive but they have the fun little modules and you can find more D-space units that fit in beyond their offerings. And, their mounting panels work really well for my Duo 24 and the FM3+FC6, and make it easy to take them off if I don't want to use the whole board for travel when I absolutely must run away and hide from ... nevermind, no need to share that part.

Pedal Train has a lot of nice boards but they lack the modules and the panels, but you should be able to position the units on the bars and lock them down with Dual Lock so it'll take a long flathead screwdriver to pry them off. There are lots of solutions but figuring out how you want to lay it out is the first big step and experimenting and using it is the best answer.

2x4" + 1x3" and plywood is heavier and more bulky. Some people use wooden pallets. Some use nylon cutting boards. The important thing is to start testing, not agonizing over it.

TBH, I have been thinking, but not overanalyzing, which sometimes happens when you have a thought and explore the possibilities. That was me several evenings ago. Got about 6 hours sleep that night.

This evening, feeling OK, but could clean up and head to bed soon.

Sorry for the monologue. I weighed some pros and cons of the homebuilt wood board, and calculated that the weight plus the lack of fasteners would create an unstable and difficult to transport board. I thought, well, no commitment to that.

I took the first steps toward acquiring materials for the Duo 34 and Duo 17 (pieces that were available online, but low stock), so I ordered these and will order the remaining parts once I've made funds available.

The Duo 34 and FC12 will likely position with the 2x EV-1s, and the Duo 17 and FM3 will have its own space with room for expansion effects, if necessary.

I realize that the cost is higher with Temple, but the quality is far above other manufacturers. I just need to get it done correctly with minimum struggle or grief. It may not be anything to write home about until the project finishes up. And that may simply looking at a well-constructed, clean board that has no after-the-fact issues. It may not be practical in some folks' minds, but all I ask for is a neat and tidy board.

FTR, I'm not a college student, though my memory serves me well from during my formative years.

 

[Deadpool_25]

@bleujazz3
Good call. I was going to suggest getting the temple boards. They’re really good imo, and are a pretty great fit with the Fractal gear.

 

[bleujazz3]

For me, the decision to build vs buy really came down to what I was going to use to transport the whole thing...or, what case/bag options I had.

I hate a case that is just too big. Stuff moves around, gets unplugged or ends up resting on a cable end and causing problems down the road.

So, I actually started with a case I wanted to use & built up from there. Yes, it restricted me in terms of what I could have on the board, but I like working within parameters like that, anyway.

Temple stuff is awesome. I know several folks who use those boards/cases for FM3, AX8, Helix, etc. My issues with them are (no particular order): A) Price of board, case, accessories 2) weight of board, accessories, case and my gear iii) no choice (from TA) of case beyond bag or wood ATA-style. (I have these same issues with PedalTrain stuff, too...)

Transport will eventually occur once our fair state gets its act together with health restrictions. Up until this point, my usual open-mic venue has not found enough wait staff hires for the venue, and consequently, they've only allowed outdoor bands instead of their indoor house band. Good music fun to listen to, you just can't get up on stage with the old house band that was part of the indoor open-mics.

I had thought to message FAS and ask if they ever might offer a product line of gig bags for their units, but the kind fellow who responded only directed me to a URL link which does custom work for a price. (I'll provide that at the conclusion.)

My usual music gear online store tells me their Temple gig bags are on backorder, which is acceptable; I'm not planning on venturing to an open-mic that doesn't have enough wait staff yet. The Temple bags will work for my needs, and I don't foresee any necessary adjustment for these.

I've checked Gator, and typically Pedaltrain provides a bag with a frame purchase. Gator was too much room inside and no way to secure the gear from bouncing around.

In the meantime, I'm comparatively happy as a pig in slop and will just keep viewing Leon Todd's G66 tips. FTR, I've mostly been maintaining what I currently own and getting my hands dirty in the process with this. Builds takes time, financing, planning, materials and labor (Jeez, tell me how to picture in your mind how XLR connections, cables, plugs and jacks all fit into this. Could feel my brain cells frying as I tried this without writing or mapping it out, LOL).

Anyway, the wheels are in motion. I'm safely sitting at home with a beer and a bottle of water, ready to call it an evening. Enjoy the remainder of your evening, folks, see you in the AM.

Almost forgot...Fractals' custom gig bag referral link...

https://studioslips.com

 

[Greg Ferguson]

Studio Slips does excellent work.

 

[strat_57]

Which size Temple board? 28"

No it’s the duo 24

 

[strat_57]

Very nice and very powerful rig you have there strat_57!

Those Morningstar midi controllers are terrific for use with any of the Fractal products.

Agree! With a bit of programming I hardly touch the switches on the FM3. My default is the 8 scenes, page up to my 8 favourite presets, and page down to stompbox mode with the 2 drive blocks, reverb, delay, and other modulation. I’ve even programmed a shortcut where pressing two buttons in any page gets to the tuner. Only thing I haven’t quite figured out is tap tempo.

 

[strat_57]

I second the love for temple boards. For me I think the strength and craftsmanship, plus the fact that it is so light (let’s face it the FM3 is really heavy for something on a pedalboard) wins over something made from wood.
My only gripe is that you need to be creative about the power cable - those holes do not allow for a simple plug and play!

 

[bishop5150]

Got a new Sennheiser wireless unit. Fits under the board nicely.

 

[bleujazz3]

I second the love for temple boards. For me I think the strength and craftsmanship, plus the fact that it is so light (let’s face it the FM3 is really heavy for something on a pedalboard) wins over something made from wood.
My only gripe is that you need to be creative about the power cable - those holes do not allow for a simple plug and play!

Same here. I went with my gut and am currently awaiting delivery of several Temple parts that will soon be accompanied by the remaining ones.

Regards the power cable, Temple's IEC power module seems like it might connect correctly...this is also part of my wish list...

 

[Deadpool_25]

On the Temple boards and power cable, unless you have something right behind the FM3, you can just use the FM3’s IEC port. If you’re really concerned with wear and tear on that port you can:

• Widen one of the larger holes with a step down drill bit
• Trim some rubber off the IEC connector and use the Temple IEC Mod
• Cut and resolder an IEC power cable and use the IEC Mod
• Use a short IEC extension cable always connected to the FM3 and secured with zip ties

Just a few options.

 

[bleujazz3]

On the Temple boards and power cable, unless you have something right behind the FM3, you can just use the FM3’s IEC port. If you’re really concerned with wear and tear on that port you can:

• Widen one of the larger holes with a step down drill bit
• Trim some rubber off the IEC connector and use the Temple IEC Mod
• Cut and resolder an IEC power cable and use the IEC Mod
• Use a short IEC extension cable always connected to the FM3 and secured with zip ties

Just a few options.

Thanks for this.

I've opted for the IEC module, yet am unsure of where to position the remaining XLR F/M and XLR M/M modules for my Duo 17 and FM3.

My gut feeling tells me to position the FM3 somewhere where all 4 cable lengths (2x ¼ > F; 1x ¼ > M, 1x IEC M > IEC F) are equidistant from the ports, but not crossing cable paths. These can be secured with zip ties under the Duo 17 surface.

Although I'm not the best of machine shop students, I see no benefit of widening the holes of the lengthier port. I trust that the XLR and IEC modules will do what they required to, in their respective places.

My feeling is that I'd never wish to rush through a project, because of potential of letting tools slip. It's happened to me once and I vowed never again. It's wise to be alert just so someone doesn't take you for a ride when you least expect it.

 

[Deadpool_25]

Thanks for this.

I've opted for the IEC module, yet am unsure of where to position the remaining XLR F/M and XLR M/M modules for my Duo 17 and FM3.

My gut feeling tells me to position the FM3 somewhere where all 4 cable lengths (2x ¼ > F; 1x ¼ > M, 1x IEC M > IEC F) are equidistant from the ports, but not crossing cable paths. These can be secured with zip ties under the Duo 17 surface.

Although I'm not the best of machine shop students, I see no benefit of widening the holes of the lengthier port. I trust that the XLR and IEC modules will do what they required to, in their respective places.

My feeling is that I'd never wish to rush through a project, because of potential of letting tools slip. It's happened to me once and I vowed never again. It's wise to be alert just so someone doesn't take you for a ride when you least expect it.

Hm. Not sure if you understand the issue. On the Temple boards, an IEC cable will not fit through the holes. This makes it difficult to route a cable from the FM3 through the board and into the back side of the IEC Module.

 

[bleujazz3]

Hm. Not sure if you understand the issue. On the Temple boards, an IEC cable will not fit through the holes. This makes it difficult to route a cable from the FM3 through the board and into the back side of the IEC Module.

My understanding is that the TA IEC power module (with the noise suppression power switch) fits through the side far end square port. If I hear what you're saying, the female IEC cable connection does not fit through the Duo 17 upper surface, and would need to extend from the far end FM3.

Several previous posts show the IEC power module in use. The example with the rubber grommet is also a viable choice, but I prefer not to give this a 2nd thought. The IEC power module will do the job well.

 

[Deadpool_25]

I prefer not to give this a 2nd thought. The IEC power module will do the job well.

No worries on my end, but I assure you you’ll give it a 2nd thought when you have all the gear in hand (as I have). I’m not saying you can’t use the module, just that you’ll need to make a modification to either the board or the cable—and neither is too difficult.



The FM3 mounts on top of the board. The Temple module mounts below it. That means, if you want to use the power module, you need to route a power cable through the surface of the board and then to the module. Neither end of an IEC cable fits through those holes without modification to either the cable or the board. I was just trying to help you think ahead but again, no worries on my end. Good luck.

 

[bleujazz3]

I'd say, yup, I'm really not certain why some boards require access modification, and others don't. The example here is one that didn't require modification. My guess is that the Temple Audio IEC power module connected directly from the side port, through the access hole. Or, the plug that connects to the FM3 is an aftermarket adapter cable that fits through the access hole. The female IEC plug connected to the FM3 in the image here doesn't seem to be altered in any way.

Anyone else who has used the TA IEC power module, is this also the case with your boards?

I've asked Temple Audio to weigh in on this matter, and I'll report this once the info is available.

Phase 2 of my build, opted for a smaller volume pedal so I could fit a Keeley Comp+ in. View attachment 86461

@Deadpool_25,
If modification is required, what size step-down drill bit is required, plz? Will review what size grommet is also required.

 

[bleujazz3]

Paul,

What size drill bit did you use, and also the rubber grommet size, please?

Thank you I appreciate it!

I just drilled out the holes on the temple board a little so the connector fitted through and I bought some rubber grommets from Ebay and they clip themselves in. There's a very small gap in between the grommet and it's just big enough to fit the thickness of the board. I had to apply a little pressure to put them in but they did manage to fit in.

Happy with the way it all fitted in the end. I did want to put another EV-2 on the board but there wasn't enough room unfortunately. I'll just keep one off the board if I ever need it.

Hope that helps.

View attachment 83712