I run wireless but when/if I run direct I am OCD about looping the cable prior to the jack because I've done the same thing multiple times - though not into a III. !!
This cable from BTPA is great. It has a solid 90-degree on one end and a Neutrik silent jack on the other.
https://btpa.com/fas18-xx.html
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Yes. The Neutrik one doesn’t pop when you remove it without first muting your signal chain. They’re very handy.Have you ever tested the difference between the Neutrik silent jack and a standard jack?
Ordered a 20' cable from them today. Looking forward to see how it compares to the Planet Waves one I have now....Yes. The Neutrik one doesn’t pop when you remove it without first muting your signal chain. They’re very handy.
Jacks don't have any appreciable impact on the sound of a cable.sonic comparison...
BTPA’s High-Definition cable is about as low-capacitance as instrument cable gets. For a given length, expect the highs to come through stronger than with Planet Waves or any other cable that doesn’t tell you its capacitance.Ordered a 20' cable from them today. Looking forward to see how it compares to the Planet Waves one I have now....
Glad it was an easy fix. Another good way to secure ribbon cables, but a little messy. Hot glue gun. I did all my pedal board ribbon cables because banging them around kept loosening the ribbons. So I covered the edges with hot glue.The ribbon cable of the input board came loose.
I've now attached a very narrow tie wrap.
Yes. The Neutrik one doesn’t pop when you remove it without first muting your signal chain. They’re very handy.
I’ve heard similar failure stories. My three have held up but I’m super easy on cables. I’ve got a cable here I bought in ‘98 that’s still in top notch shape.I've stopped using the silent plugs. The last one that I had would cut out intermittently and it was not the cable connection to the plug. I tried some Deoxit on it which worked for a while but eventually it came back. I sent it back to the manufacturer and they cut me a new cable with a regular Neutrik plug to replace my other one.
I’ve heard similar failure stories. My three have held up but I’m super easy on cables. I’ve got a cable here I bought in ‘98 that’s still in top notch shape.
Having not known about this product, is this more or less basically a "buy once type of product" to ensure quality and continuity of performance type of product? Trying to figure if this is a pro level item for live performance/usage or a useful type of item for home use.I've used Neutrik silent plugs on every cable at every gig and session since they first appeared. I've never had so much as a minor hiccup. If there was an official M@ cable, this would be it! The Switchcraft one with the little dot switch is great too. I've got one that's 16+ years old and has seen thousands of uses.
Neutriks are all over pro rigs, both silent and regular. Like @Admin M@ I've used Neutrik connectors for decades with no issues.Having not known about this product, is this more or less basically a "buy once type of product" to ensure quality and continuity of performance type of product? Trying to figure if this is a pro level item for live performance/usage or a useful type of item for home use.
Yow. Were you using active pickups? Otherwise, 16 meters of cable will shave significant amounts of highs off of your signal.@yek - You had just too short cable - in the past I used 10m cable for stages where I was 6-7m away from my rig, in case of longer distance I have extended the cable with additional 6m. Cable fixed on the rig to avoid damage of plug/socket, extender had female socket with click to avoid disconnection. Excess of the cable was convoluted (over/under method to avoid twisting) and laid on the ground near the rig. In case of too much rocking on the stage or just accident there was 2-3m of safety gap which prevent from rig damage or just harming myself during playing.
Yow. Were you using active pickups? Otherwise, 16 meters of cable will shave significant amounts of highs off of your signal.