LCD replacement for Axe II Mark 1

Yeah, about 2 years ago my LCD screen went out on my beloved FX 2 Mark 1, and Fractal along with the local electronics repair shop and everyone else said I was screwed on a replacement. I dropped $500 on an MFC101 thinking that would solve my problems with channel switching, but little did I realize you have to assign it first through the unit itself. Talk about "upset".

I bought a Quad Cortex and keep my Axe-FX 2 in my closet as just a sentimental reminder of some great shows and awesome recorded albums. I still recommend their products regardless, but unless they magically create another run of replacement screens, that's about all mine is good for now.

It was a hell of a 9 year run while it lasted though.
 
Aside from being a guitarist I make electronic /sample based music and have used various Akai mpc's over the years.
When Akai stopped making parts MPC stuff stepped up their aftermarket game and has a screen reverse engineered in China that works perfectly and is affordable, giving new life to many faded MPC's out in the wild.
I really find it hard to believe that Fractal can't do this on their own or sub contract it out to someone that can manufacture it under license.
To have a perfectly functioning unit dead in a closet because of a screen after less that 10 years of use really sucks and is also environmentally disastrous.
I seriously doubt it was planned obsolescence on Fractal's part, But it's time for them to reevaluate maintenance and repair policies for legacy units instead of saying sorry you SOL, buy our newest model.
Exhibit A
Search MPC 2000 replacement screen/MPC stuff to see what I am referring to as the forum will not let me post the link
 
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My Ax2mk1 screen is still fine but this potential issue makes be nervous. I was thinking of somehow documenting, either via screen shots or video (or written description) ... all the content of the "Global", "I/O", and "Utility" menus at the front panel (the stuff not available in AE), to a degree of detail that would allow one to "navigate blind" on those menus. Would that work in a case where the screen becomes unreadable? (or does that screen issue somehow affect the actual menus nav?).
 
Hey, I know this is an old thread but I’ve come back to it a few times over the last couple of years as my screen has progressively faded out to the point where it was barely visible. Out of sheer frustration I did the old slap on the top (used to work on the old tube tv) anyhow, after I gave it a tap, it came back a little bit so I gave it a few more stern taps and it came back to nearly it’s original state, there was a sweet spot just to the left of centre of the screen on the top casing which leads me to believe, at least in my case, that the issue is a bad/dirty contact. Does the brains trust have a suggestion on best way to investigate and identify and potentially permanently repair this issue?
 
Hey, I know this is an old thread but I’ve come back to it a few times over the last couple of years as my screen has progressively faded out to the point where it was barely visible. Out of sheer frustration I did the old slap on the top (used to work on the old tube tv) anyhow, after I gave it a tap, it came back a little bit so I gave it a few more stern taps and it came back to nearly it’s original state, there was a sweet spot just to the left of centre of the screen on the top casing which leads me to believe, at least in my case, that the issue is a bad/dirty contact. Does the brains trust have a suggestion on best way to investigate and identify and potentially permanently repair this issue?
Probably best to open the case and make sure the ribbon cables are well seated.
 
...and clean them with the proper contact cleaner, observing static sensitivity protocol.
I’m as electronic technically minded as a cat in a snow globe factory, what would the proper contact cleaner be called and what is this static sensitivity protocol you speak of?
 
Inside an expensive piece of high end electronics equipment is not the place to learn the basics of electronics repair. Best to take it to someone that knows what they are doing.
 
Inside an expensive piece of high end electronics equipment is not the place to learn the basics of electronics repair. Best to take it to someone that knows what they are doing.
Don’t threaten me with a good time lol. Yeah I was thinking that vary thought myself, I can pull a car engine apart and put it back together but whatever happens in this unit or any electronics for that matter is nothing short of black magic and should be dealt with by an appropriate wizard.
 
I’m as electronic technically minded as a cat in a snow globe factory, what would the proper contact cleaner be called and what is this static sensitivity protocol you speak of?
Electronic contact cleaner, and Google is your friend with regards to working on computers and static sensitivity.

The Axe's are essentially specialized computers, and all that's been mentioned is checking and cleaning cable connections.

The next step would probably be reflowing the LCD's solder connections, and leave that to someone with experience, or of course replacing it if any are still available.
 
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Have
Electronic contact cleaner, and Google is your friend with regards to working on computers and static sensitivity.

The Axe's are essentially specialized computers, and all that's been mentioned is checking and cleaning cable connections.

The next step would probably be reflowing the LCD's solder connections, and leave that to someone with experience, or of course replacing it if any are still available.
checked just like everyone else here that’s disappointed and sadly they are no longer available, just the fact that the screen came back somewhat after giving it a good smack like the naughty little child it is has given me a glimmer of hope.
 
It’s nowhere near 100% but it was virtually just a green screen beforehand
 

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checked just like everyone else here that’s disappointed and sadly they are no longer available, just the fact that the screen came back somewhat after giving it a good smack like the naughty little child it is has given me a glimmer of hope.
Yeah, about smacking it around, NOT a good idea, as ultimately it will cause it to fail 100%, so follow the suggestions above, and if you can't do it find someone with the experience to do it for you. It should only take a few minutes, so minimum labor costs etc.

Good luck!
 
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I've had problems with contrast on my mk1 for couple years because the 20-pin ribbon cable was broken at the bend. No issues since I've replaced it about six months ago. I've used couple inches longer one to avoid bending it to much.
Maybe this will be helpful for someone.
 
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