How to protect FM3+FC6 rear connections on a pedalboard?

Ugh. Last night I got to sit in with some friends and took the FM3+FC6. They called up another friend to sing, who then spent the next 30 minutes stomping around the stage right next to the FM3. By the end he'd stepped on the guitar cord at the input, unplugging it mid-song, then stepped on the FASLink breaking the XLR connector and I was about to push him off the stage. I was afraid he'd broken the socket itself inside the FM3, but the FC6 powered right up when I used a different XLR cable.

Now I'm totally rethinking my light-weight travel FM3+FC6 rig and am going to armor it. I'm looking at the Temple Audio Duo 24 so I can fit the units side-by-side, but would really like to find something that could protect all the connections on the back of the unit. I know I can run everything to the modules on the side, but the connections themselves on the back are still exposed.

I looked at the Nux Bumblebee (Large) but it doesn't look like there'd be enough room to put one of the bars across the back and it's not wide enough for both units.

I was thinking of asking if Temple Audio would sell a bunch of their handles that I could mount across the back, but I wondered if anyone else had thoughts about it. Has anyone got a way of putting a bar over the back area to deflect stomping feet? Maybe a chrome towel rack from Home Depot? :)
 
Securing patch cables and the delicate output jacks from the stomping Godzilla's on stage is something I definitely relate to; I'm always wary of this.

My uncle is a wood-worker who has made up my pedalboards for years now, and for my new FM3/FC6/dual Mission expression pedals build I'm thinking of having him enclose the connectors and hinge the top for access and/or breakout. I have to give this some more thought yet but maybe you could fab up a wooden connector enclosure that mounts on the Temple board....
 
Yeah you could build a bar similar to what is on the top/sides of the FM3 and mount it across the back of the pedalboard.

Of course a wiffle ball bat (this is my kindest, gentlest self) to the knee could also work wonders.
 
I never had any problems with my Temple Audio.
Everything is attached with GloRisers from Sukh Ryatt (Zenrigs).
It’s clean and tidy and every cable is well protected and attached under the board.
 

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Or get right angle plugs, and right behind them mount an L shaped aluminium stock on your board with the edge extending beyond the plugs.
FM3--->_____]-, [__<--- L shaped thingy.
That’s probably the best idea so far. I have low profile right angle XLR ordered and have right angle TRS plugs and some of the small gauge Mogami three-conductor mic cable. Those should be able to hide behind the aluminum.
 
I never had any problems with my Temple Audio.
Everything is attached with GloRisers from Sukh Ryatt (Zenrigs).
It’s clean and tidy and every cable is well protected and attached under the board.
Yeah, once the wires are underneath the board they’re protected, it’s where they’re exposed to a lumbering... oaf... that I’m concerned.

I’ve never worried about someone on the stage performing being the one who could damage my gear, it was always the drunk guy in the crowd waving his beer around. That’s probably what bugs me most about the situation last night, he was both rolled into one. :-/
 
Or get right angle plugs, and right behind them mount an L shaped aluminium stock on your board with the edge extending beyond the plugs.
FM3--->_____]-, [__<--- L shaped thingy.
I was looking at the Home Depot and Lowe’s websites and they both have right-angle aluminum stock, with the thickest being 1/8”. Lowe’s had 2”x2” which might be tall and strong enough.

And if I glue broken glass all along the top edge....
 
I used to leave about 2 or 3 cm of string when cutting new strings at the E, B and G string tuners. So when Mr Frontman started to become Mr Sidewaysman he got his jabs.

The G string is the perfect one - it's got the strength, it's usually nearest to the top of the headstock and goes through denim and even light leather
 
I have a lot of sh!+ plugged into mine. I used all right angle plugs and mounted the FM3 as far towards me as I could. Anything that gets plugged and unplugged is on the side. So yep, the Temple boards are really great. If you wanted, you could build a dog house over the connections on the back of the FM3.

Here's the post of my rig:
https://forum.fractalaudio.com/threads/lets-see-those-fm3-rigs.158779/post-2067322
 
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I protect those connectors by adding another handle (similar to the FM3) at the back of my board. It makes it easy to plug in, but protects against the accidental step, or bad monitor placement.
 
My FM3 is mounted on a Pedaltrain Novo 18 board with a Best Tronics panel on the back. All of the FM3 connections are prewired the panel. I never have to touch the FM3 to plug anything in, it all happens at the panel. I keep my FC6 off board to use as needed (or not). It also provides space for a few real pedals if I want.

Ironically, I've been thinking about taking the FM3 off the board and just using the FM3+FC6 on the floor. Your post has me seriously rethinking that idea.
 
I protect those connectors by adding another handle (similar to the FM3) at the back of my board. It makes it easy to plug in, but protects against the accidental step, or bad monitor placement.
That’s kind of what I was thinking, except I don’t think it would stand up to someone stepping directly on it, and who knows what sort of damage would happen then.

The idea of the aluminum angle still appeals to me, especially if I put two, back to back, and bolt them together. Together they should hold a lot of weight.
 
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