How do you setup your guitar's whammy bar?

How do you configure your guitar's whammy bar?

  • It's fixed in place and can't move.

    Votes: 2 5.1%
  • It floats (can go sharp or flat).

    Votes: 28 71.8%
  • It can only go flat.

    Votes: 9 23.1%

  • Total voters
    39

kgk

Member
I was wondering how people set up their whammy (vibrato) bars. I always make mine "float," so I can make a note go sharp or flat, but I understand that many people either fix them in place, or make it so they can only go flat (so a broken string doesn't ruin the show).

I was trying to figure out what was most popular, and then I realized, "oh, I can have a poll and actually get the right answer!" :D

(Also, if you have any configuration tips to share, don't be shy. :))
 
I have guitars set up all three ways. All of my Strats (Mexicans) have blocked tremolos. I have a PRS SE Custom 22 with a Tremol-No set up to only allow the strings to go flat. And I've got a PRS SE Custom 24 with a Floyd Rose, and it's full floating for both up and down whammification.
 
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I only have floyd roses at this point, I So they are floating.

Honestly i think it depends on how your using the guitar, and how well the trem agrees with the guitar. I have had a few guitars that I could never get the trem to be stable enough to dependable. In those situations I blocked them so they couldn't move at all. On my floyd roses currently they are setup well and return to being intune despite serious tension increases and decreases.
 
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I much prefer a floating trem, but I block the ones that have a Dtuna on them for dive only as I've never seen if a tremol no will work with one. Unless your floyd (licensed or original) is screwed up it should stay in tune IF you fully stretch the strings first.
 
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I have Strat whammies set both ways and floyds that are floating. For the Strats I use the Frudua Way mixed with some of Carl Verheyen's method. Carl angles the trem springs but I've had guitars where that makes little difference. I have one Strat with a block trem......
 
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Angling the springs can slightly change the feel of the trem since the outer springs are stretched a little longer than normal and are sitting at a different point along their tension curve. It's sort of like the difference between using 3 springs that are stretched tighter vs 5 springs that are stretched much less. The tension at rest is the same relative to the string tension to maintain the same tuning, but the feel of trem bar movements can be slightly different. Angling the outer springs puts more tension on the outer springs and less on the middle spring, so the feel is a little closer to 2 tighter springs rather than 3 looser ones. Different springs have different tension curves as they are stretched, so you have to experiment with what you've got and see which feel you like the best. The difference can often be subtle.
 
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Most of my trem guitars are set up to switch between floating and dive only. The Parker Fly does that out of the box and nearly all of my others have Tremol-No units installed to enable the switch.
 
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I was wondering how people set up their whammy (vibrato) bars...I was trying to figure out what was most popular,...
IMO, it's far more important to set it up the way you want it, unless your goal is to set it the "popular" way. :)
 
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I set up all my OFRs for drop down only. I used FU Tone Trem stops to do this. They're easy to install and make working with a locking trem so much easier.

For vintage trems I just drop in 5 springs and crank 'em all the way down.
 
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I usually play fixed bridge guitars but I have a few with Floyd Rose's that are set to float. I can't really use a Floyd Rose because the weather and humidity fluctuates too much where I live, so it's impossible to stay in tune. The tuning changes drastically, so I have to unlock the nut and spend way too much time retuning and relocking the nut and hoping I remember where I put the Allen Wrench haha. I always know when it's below 20 degrees in the winter because that's the temp it was when I bought my Dean Razorback and it will be in tune because I leave it locked and never play it but if I do and it's in tune, it's pretty damn cold outside haha.
 
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I break strings and use drop-d tuning on some gigs. I like the flexibility to keep the show going in case it happens. I'm not a big bar guy to begin with, just some wiggle and flutters every now and then for some spice.
 
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Angling the springs can slightly change the feel of the trem since the outer springs are stretched a little longer than normal and are sitting at a different point along their tension curve. It's sort of like the difference between using 3 springs that are stretched tighter vs 5 springs that are stretched much less. The tension at rest is the same relative to the string tension to maintain the same tuning, but the feel of trem bar movements can be slightly different. Angling the outer springs puts more tension on the outer springs and less on the middle spring, so the feel is a little closer to 2 tighter springs rather than 3 looser ones. Different springs have different tension curves as they are stretched, so you have to experiment with what you've got and see which feel you like the best. The difference can often be subtle.

Steel springs should usually be pretty linear. When that's true, angling one or more will make it easier to move the bar, but not by much. If angling 2 of 3 you could expect to need something like 98-99% the previous force for a given pitch change.
 
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I only play Mann Made USA trems. All of my guitars are custom made and the trem cavity has a recess on them so the trems are set up for floating. I get damn near the same range on both dives and raises as a Floyd Rose trem, but none of the hassle of setting up and locking it all down. The Mann Made USA trems are hands down the best trem on the market. They sound amazing, feel amazing, resonate forever, and always return to perfect pitch no matter how damn hard I abuse them.
 
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My tremolo equipped guitars are a PRS CE-24, Ibanez JS2400 and Fender Deluxe V-Neck Strat. Different designs and all floating with zero tuning issues. It takes time to set them up properly but once dialed in are very low maintenance. The Ibanez is the most time consuming when playing out due to having to loosen the nut screws to tune it. I've found if I let it acclimate for about a half hour before locking the nut, it stays in tune just fine. Some guitars are more sensitive than others but I have yet to play a guitar, hardtail or tremolo, that doesn't require tuning when changing environments/venues.
 
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As a locking trem guy myself, I far prefer floating, but on my strat is a stock Kahler Spyder and to get it set up decently with my extremely low tuning, the bridge had to sit flat closer to the body than I normally like. It's not as bad as I would have thought and still gets tons of use.
 
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