Homemade 9V Power Out for pedals on FM3

I used a DC-DC 3-40V LM2596 Adjustable Step-Down Power Supply Module Voltage Regulator which I tapped into the FM3's 15V Power supply output wires, then adjusted the voltage to 9V. Installed the board on an existing brass standoff inside FM3 using isolated washer. and connected to a DC Power Supply Jack Socket Female Panel Mount Connector 5.5X2.1mm - wired centre negative (accepts standard Boss pedal jack)

The FM3 Power Supply has enough overhead power to handle this. The FM3 Uses less than 15W, I think. The FM3 Power Supply is rated at 40W.

This DC-DC board can reliably handle up to 2A (it's rated at 3A max - not recommended!) My recommendation is 500mA @9V, It is "stealing" approximately 4.5W from FM3 which I think is a reasonable amount to keep the FM3 and the DC-DC board happy.

Here it is working:
Tuesday at 12:39 AM



View attachment 72158

View attachment 72159
I'd rather not add anything in the housing that adds heat, which is the case here. Why not use a fused external solution on the FAS link connector ? So much, safer, easier and protecting your warranty.
 
The "DROK 12V to 9V 2A 18W DC-DC Buck Power Converter Voltage Regulator Transformer Voltage Step Down Power Supply Module" can be spliced into your pedal power cable where ever you need your 9V, and in my case it mounts underneath my pedalboard.

It stays cool to the touch even after hours of use, so you could mount it inside the FM3 as well IMO, though I have no idea if mounting it inside would create additional noise in the audio (safer to mount externally with regards to noise in the audio IMO...)?

I'll also note that while it doesn't electronically isolate, I run two digital pedals in via the FASLINK power, a TC Mic Mechanic (12V), and a ZOOM MS-70 CDR (9V) without any noise or ground issues (though only the ZOOM MS-70 CDR is in the guitar audio chain, the TC is for vocal).

Also, thanks to the OP for creating this thread as I hadn't thought of using the FASLINK power prior to seeing this thread.
 
Last edited:
It is probable cheaper, and safer, to buy a complete solution like Voes MX5, or a Morningstar MC6. I'd prefer the Voes as I have big feet and hate to hit other buttons at the same time, it's more spacious.
Thanks! I’m a DIYer and I’ve already built momentary switches and micro expression pedals for other functions (and although the parts have some cost, so far I managed to build it all without buying any new stock - it’s all from existing parts I have from pedal and amp making, including repurposing some previously-used enclosures). I’ve also already built 2 latching switches with LED indicators which I’m powering externally and are working great for pre- and post- boost functions, but if I could power them from the FM3/FC6 (FASLINK jack or otherwise) that would be ideal.
 
Thanks! I’m a DIYer and I’ve already built momentary switches and micro expression pedals for other functions (and although the parts have some cost, so far I managed to build it all without buying any new stock - it’s all from existing parts I have from pedal and amp making, including repurposing some previously-used enclosures). I’ve also already built 2 latching switches with LED indicators which I’m powering externally and are working great for pre- and post- boost functions, but if I could power them from the FM3/FC6 (FASLINK jack or otherwise) that would be ideal.
It's rumored that Fractal might enable the USB-A port so people could use the 5V 500ma with the next FW update (no other USB-A functionality is rumored AFAIK?), so hopefully that happens and we get a second power supply.
 
It's rumored that Fractal might enable the USB-A port so people could use the 5V 500ma with the next FW update (no other USB-A functionality is rumored AFAIK?), so hopefully that happens and we get a second power supply.

That would be very cool! 500mA isn’t a ton of current, but would be enough for a few analog audio circuits and certainly enough for some indicator LEDs.

Is that enough to charge an iPhone though? I suspect that’s what most users would want it for.
 
Thanks! I’m a DIYer and I’ve already built momentary switches and micro expression pedals for other functions (and although the parts have some cost, so far I managed to build it all without buying any new stock - it’s all from existing parts I have from pedal and amp making, including repurposing some previously-used enclosures). I’ve also already built 2 latching switches with LED indicators which I’m powering externally and are working great for pre- and post- boost functions, but if I could power them from the FM3/FC6 (FASLINK jack or otherwise) that would be ideal.
Check on the forum, in the "show FM3 rigs" there's some info about that if I remember well. The FAS link provides 12Vdc that I fused to feed a Hotone midi-controller that I sell as there are no leds and a few operational flaws on the hotone. I checked with Voes for the MX5 that I'm saving money for and it would also accept 12Vdc (latest version). If you du just latches with leds 12Vdc might be OK without using one of those dcdc buck converters (but there exists a very tiny one that fits in a XLR plug for under 3 usd).
 
The FasLink has DC 12V output. Pin 1 is negative and Pin 2 is Positive.
if you have DC-DC Converter Module then:
XLR Pin 1 goes to IN- on he Module
XLR Pin 2 goes to IN+ on the Module

and from the Module
OUT- goes to centre of DC Jack
OUT+ goes to Sleeve of DC Jack

That's all. You'll need to adjust the output voltage to 9V on your Module, if you have adjustable one or you could source the one with already fixed 9V output.
There are dozens of the Modules available, Just google DC-DC step-down converter.

For example
DC Jack;
Gikfun DC Power Supply Jack Socket Female Panel Mount Connector 5.5X2.1mm for Arduino (Pack of 10pcs) EK1796

DC-DC Module (I wouldn't go above 500mA) for external supply (this one is too big to be built into an XLR connector):
5PCS 3A DC-DC 3-40V LM2596S LM2596 Adjustable Step-Down Power Supply Module Voltage Regulator

So, can I just solder this one to get 12V DC?

1641473576853.png

And, to make it easy - the Engl converter to get finally 9V instead of 12.
I just need to know if I can solder this power chord, like: PIN 1 to center (negative), PIN 2 to sleeve (positive) and that's it?! ...
 
So, can I just solder this one to get 12V DC?



And, to make it easy - the Engl converter to get finally 9V instead of 12.
I just need to know if I can solder this power chord, like: PIN 1 to center (negative), PIN 2 to sleeve (positive) and that's it?! ...
Yes, this. The MC6/8 is probably handling 12VDC with no issues. I only use the ENGL to match the requirements of the Wah.
 
Thanks @jaza69 - I made an XLR to 9V cable today and it’s works great for powering pedals. Thanks for sharing the information on how to do it. Much appreciated!

@jski59 - I’m powering a Shure GLXD-16 with the XLR to 9V cable and can confirm that there is noise in the audio line. The noise is quite bad - I don’t think I’ll use the cable to power the wireless receiver.
 
Thanks @jaza69 - I made an XLR to 9V cable today and it’s works great for powering pedals. Thanks for sharing the information on how to do it. Much appreciated!

@jski59 - I’m powering a Shure GLXD-16 with the XLR to 9V cable and can confirm that there is noise in the audio line. The noise is quite bad - I don’t think I’ll use the cable to power the wireless receiver.

Is the noise on all pedals you hook up? Or only specific ones?
I can only think of a ground issue, any other thoughts?
 
Is the noise on all pedals you hook up? Or only specific ones?
I can only think of a ground issue, any other thoughts?
Just on the wireless unit.

Edit:
I should add that the noise was present while charging the LIne6 wireless GT10 transmitter in its base. The noise bursts occurred every 2s in sync with the charging LEDs.

While building your board, I found, that it's very important to keep your power carrying cables away from your audio cables. Never bundle them together as that may result in crosstalk noise.
 
Last edited:
Thanks @jaza69 - I made an XLR to 9V cable today and it’s works great for powering pedals. Thanks for sharing the information on how to do it. Much appreciated!

@jski59 - I’m powering a Shure GLXD-16 with the XLR to 9V cable and can confirm that there is noise in the audio line. The noise is quite bad - I don’t think I’ll use the cable to power the wireless receiver.

Yeah I could never get around the noise issue and it was the only pedal on my board, so I just built an ac junction box for underneath my pedaltrain and used the sennheiser wall wart.
 
Yeah I could never get around the noise issue and it was the only pedal on my board, so I just built an ac junction box for underneath my pedaltrain and used the sennheiser wall wart.

I built the cable to power my Digitech Drop and it works - but I guess I have the same noise as you ...
Other pedals are working without any noise (for example, an old boss pedal) but the digital DigiTech is making noise ...
Do i have any options to eliminate this electronic noise? I think it's a ground issue or something like that? ...
 
I built the cable to power my Digitech Drop and it works - but I guess I have the same noise as you ...
Other pedals are working without any noise (for example, an old boss pedal) but the digital DigiTech is making noise ...
Do i have any options to eliminate this electronic noise? I think it's a ground issue or something like that? ...
Maybe give the ENGL Powertab Portable a try. This might filter/isolate ground noise.
 
Back
Top Bottom