Help on setting up and maintaining floyd rose guitar?

Rex said:
I usually start taking off springs, one at a time, as I remove the strings. Eventually, I can just lift the bridge out altogether.

Another option is to change the strings one at a time. That's perfectly valid. Makes it a bit more of a hassle to oil the fingerboard (even trickier if you want to clean it), but it's still doable.

A third option is to block the trem with a piece of wood or some such. That will hold the trem in place.
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but how do i oil the rosewood fb? can i oil the rosewood fb with the old strings on and then change the strings one at a time like i usually do. That way the setup/etc remains unchanged
 
unix-guy said:
This for standard FR:

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...e&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=2021-10-gp

For my Ibanez Edge trems, this works great (it also works for my Gotoh 1996 on my Suhr):

Amazon product ASIN B01AZBFJOU
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I had the Key and TBH found it cheap feeling, I also have the Ibanez one and this is just like the Ibanez but works for all of them and quite well

https://www.ebay.com/itm/194413351738?epid=22029179626&hash=item2d43f0533a:g:BaEAAOSwWMld6I3b
 
vejichan said:
How do you keep the floyd stabilized with the strings off? wouldn't the bridge just fall off the cavity? can't i just oil with strings on?
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usually just block it from the cavity side so it sits at a neutral position, if needed tighten up the springs some to keep the block in place, replace strings, tune and stretch, ease out the springs ever so slightly, the block falls out and you should be in tune, with stretched strings and your bridge at a proper angle (or close enough).
 
Rich5150 said:
I had the Key and TBH found it cheap feeling, I also have the Ibanez one and this is just like the Ibanez but works for all of them and quite well

https://www.ebay.com/itm/194413351738?epid=22029179626&hash=item2d43f0533a:g:BaEAAOSwWMld6I3b
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I was going to list that one, too, but I have no experience with it. I think those became available after the Ibanez one.

I know what you mean about the Key and it is cheap in comparison. But for a long time there wasn't much else...
 
secondwindow said:
You may not like having oiled strings, seems like they'd feel gunny and lose some liveliness.
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You could oil it with the old strings on and then change to new strings after.

I typically drop the tension on all strings, remove the springs, remove the bridge with the strings still attached and then reverse that when I'm done and re-tune the guitar. But it can be a tricky operation :)

Then I'll change the strings one at a time.
 
unix-guy said:
I was going to list that one, too, but I have no experience with it. I think those became available after the Ibanez one.

I know what you mean about the Key and it is cheap in comparison. But for a long time there wasn't much else.
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They did come out after the Ibanez, It does work the same just more options Trem wise. When I bought the Key there wasn't another option, used it once and threw it out as it was to much of a pain to use.
 
secondwindow said:
You may not like having oiled strings, seems like they'd feel gunny and lose some liveliness.
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You can minimize how much oil gets on the strings if you futz around. That's why I take them off if it's time for oil. And you definitely want to wipe them down afterwards, preferably with naphtha.
 
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I loosen the spring claw screws and place business cards between the sustain block and the back edge of the trem route to stabilize the trem whenever I'm setting up.
 
Milgromsegal said:
usually just block it from the cavity side so it sits at a neutral position, if needed tighten up the springs some to keep the block in place, replace strings, tune and stretch, ease out the springs ever so slightly, the block falls out and you should be in tune, with stretched strings and your bridge at a proper angle (or close enough).
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wouldn't that ruin my setup? and intonation. I never messed with the springs.
 
unix-guy said:
You could oil it with the old strings on and then change to new strings after.

I typically drop the tension on all strings, remove the springs, remove the bridge with the strings still attached and then reverse that when I'm done and re-tune the guitar. But it can be a tricky operation :)

Then I'll change the strings one at a time.
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yea if i could do that i wouldn't be posting this. I want to maintain the setup etc. So i'm oiling the rosewood fb with the old strings on.. and then changing the old strings out for new strings.. is that ok? also what oil and microfibre cloth do you advise?
 
vejichan said:
yea if i could do that i wouldn't be posting this. I want to maintain the setup etc. So i'm oiling the rosewood fb with the old strings on.. and then changing the old strings out for new strings.. is that ok? also what oil and microfibre cloth do you advise?
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There's really no substitute for doing it right... I didn't know how to do this stuff until I did it.

You can, too! It's not that hard.

But in any case, yes, you can just replace the strings after.

I've used a spray-on fretboard cleaner/conditioner. Let it sit for a few minutes and apply some elbow grease with an old (but clean) hand towel, rag, etc to clean the board and remove excess cleaner.

I don't recall the name at the moment... I've also used another product that's designed for natural hardwood furniture - it's lemon oil as well, not a wax product.

You don't need a microfiber cloth to wipe oil on/off an unfinished fretboard.

Edit:

Scott's Liquid Gold Wood Care... It's actually mineral oil and not lemon oil.
 
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vejichan said:
yea if i could do that i wouldn't be posting this. I want to maintain the setup etc. So i'm oiling the rosewood fb with the old strings on.. and then changing the old strings out for new strings.. is that ok? also what oil and microfibre cloth do you advise?
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What you are doing is fine. But there’s no need to mess up a microfiber cloth to oil your fingerboard. Just use a paper towel.

Any old lemon oil will do. Or mineral oil. There is no magic here.
 
https://www.stewmac.com/parts-and-h...MIiv6MqLbQ8wIVJ__jBx1yNgvGEAQYAyABEgJ1OPD_BwE
This will keep your floyd from sinking into the recess or press against your body when you remove all of your strings. I have a different version, but same idea.
I'm such a cheap butt, I can't believe I actually bought a String Stretcha. I have to say, it did an INCREADIBLE job. I used it, locked down the strings and haven't had to retune since. I had been hand stretching for decades, but this really does make it go so much quicker.
 
I do not change the strings one by one. I remove them all after placing an eraser under the bridge. It is a coincidence that it has the exact height to maintain it in tune when removing the strings. Otherwise you could cut it or enlarge it with some tape.

Removing all strings facilitates cleaning and maintenance of the fretboard

Eraser.jpg
 
Here is the procedure i am thinking of doing. Please advise

  • with the guitar tuned to pitch, use music nomad f one oil, apply on the old strings and rosewood fingerboard
  • with a kitchen towel, wipe the oil over the rosewood fb, over and under the old strings
  • let the oil sit for 2-3 min
-with the dry side of the kitchen towel, wipe off the oil on the fb, on and under the the old strings
  • open a new pack of strings, start changing out the old strings with new strings starting from the low e. One string at a time. 1st, take off the old low e string and again wipe off the rosewood fb with a towel and then attach the new fresh low e string. Repeat for the remaining strings.
  • tune and retune the guitar until the guitar is in pitch
Next
- with the guitar now with fresh strings tune to pitch, fret the 1st fret and the 17th fret and check the gap at the top of the 8th fret to the bottom of the low e string. If there is 0 gap and the string is touching the fret..take the truss rod tool included with the guitar and insert into truss rod at the headstock and turn counterclockwise slowly and carefully.no more than a quarter turn. Wait a day for the neck to adjust before turning further. If the gap is too wide. Clock wise turn on truss rod. Again no more than a quarter turn and wait a day before turning further. The gap you are looking for is the smallest gap you can visually see..as long as there is something there.

wipe down the guitar and strings and pickups with a microfibrr clothe and done. Again this is just for maintaining and setting up a guitar with the same gauge strings and tuning.. please advise if i miss any thing or steps? What else should i be doing? What about lubricating the nut?

thanks
 
I think you're overthinking this a little bit. :)

vejichan said:
Here is the procedure i am thinking of doing. Please advise

  • with the guitar tuned to pitch, use music nomad f one oil, apply on the old strings and rosewood fingerboard
  • with a kitchen towel, wipe the oil over the rosewood fb, over and under the old strings
  • let the oil sit for 2-3 min
-with the dry side of the kitchen towel, wipe off the oil on the fb, on and under the the old strings
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WIth a kitchen towel (if you want) or a paper towel (less laundry :)), apply oil to the fingerboard. Put oil on the towel, then user your finger to push the towel under the strings and onto the fingerboard. Don't just squirt oil onto the fingerboard — that's way too messy.

After a minute or so, do the same thing with a dry portion of the towel to mop up the remaining oil from the fingerboard. Then start changing strings.


vejichan said:
  • Next
- with the guitar now with fresh strings tune to pitch, fret the 1st fret and the 17th fret and check the gap at the top of the 8th fret to the bottom of the low e string. If there is 0 gap and the string is touching the fret..take the truss rod tool included with the guitar and insert into truss rod at the headstock and turn counterclockwise slowly and carefully.no more than a quarter turn. Wait a day for the neck to adjust before turning further. If the gap is too wide. Clock wise turn on truss rod. Again no more than a quarter turn and wait a day before turning further. The gap you are looking for is the smallest gap you can visually see..as long as there is something there.
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No need to wait a day between adjustments. Go ahead and dial the truss rod to get exactly the relief you want, and then continue with the setup. When you're all done, play your guitar and have fun. Check again the next day to see if the relief needs any further adjustments.
 
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